RJC2

I use white lithium grease on the rollers ect.. It works well, doesn't seem to pick up dirt and lasts.

That is just what I needed. It helps me to get a visual of what I am going to do. I have the turbo off right now so the job will be much easier.

I am installing a set of gauges (EGT, Boost, Transmission Temp) and am not real sure where to hook to boost gauge in to the engine. Pictures or a video would be helpful if there are any available.I am getting ready to drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the EGT gauge tomorrow, so if anyone has a picture of where you drilled your hole in the manifold that would be great too.Thanks...

I agree with Mike. It sounds like the regulator is binding. The 10 minute wait could be the time it takes to loosen up.

Thanks, I have adjusted a few before, just didn't know the proper term for it. As far as over adjusting, I have learned from watching a friend overtighten one to be rather conservative with it.

I was wondering, (pardon the pun) does it steer better, really good, or like new? How many miles are on your truck? (trying to compare wear and tare) --- Update to the previous post... Mike, I am not sure what the sector adjustment you refered to is, but was wondering if it is that that adjustment on top of the steering box? (Lock nut and straight head screw)

You may be money ahead to consider buying a nice 12 valve rather than the 24 valve and converting it. Things have a way of getting real expensive with just general maintenance and repairs.

Thanks, I'll do that. I had no idea they were used that way.

I am glad to hear this. Now to get it installed. They burned off the exhaust studs so I have to find replacements tomorrow.Should I replace the steel gaskets or are they reusable?Dave, it has a new 3" stock exhaust. The guy put it on just before I bought it or I would have upgraded to a 4". Thanks again for the offer. I wish you were closer to home. I would have just drove down there and got yours so I could meet you.The upgrade will be nice but I will never know the difference as I have never drove the truck with the wastegate working, so I don't have a way to compare one to the other. I will be happy as long as it runs right.Thanks everyone for your help, I can rest a little better tonight. This worried me all the way home from the junk yard.

Thanks John, I feel better now. I drove four hours for it, and don't want to do it again. Here is a different shot, I think this is what you were talking about. Again, the one on the right is the HX35. (I made a mistake on the last post and called the original a HX35, when it is a HY35 as you said)

Okay guys, the one on the right is the junk yard turbo, the one on the left is the original. They are different, but the guy at the junk yard says they will interchange. I took the original turbo with me and the guy said that it is the small version they put on the automatic transmission trucks. He said the one he sold me is a HX35, (like mine) but is the larger one that came from a manual transmission truck, but would work just the same, but may run a tiny bit better. He said it was from a 01, or 02. The bearings feel as tight as the original and the wastegate works well. This man works on dodge diesels all day every day (for years). I am sure he has forgot more than I know about the Cummins. However, before I go to the trouble of installing it tomorrow I thought I would run it by you all for approval.

Wow, you guys are great. I wish I lived nearer, these are two deals that I couldn't beat anywhere. However, I really need to have the old girl up and running as bad weather may set in and it is my only 4X4. Thanks to both of you (Dripley and War Eagle) for your generous offers.I did find a used turbo at a salvage yard that specializes in Dodge trucks "only". They want $350 for it, I pick it up tomorrow. It will essentially leave me with a spare turbo. I have never been there before, but a friend tells me that they have five acres of Dodge trucks for parts. I am kind of itching to get a look in this place if they will let me. Sounds like "Dodge heaven".Thanks again everyone for all the advice and offers.

Thanks for the offer Dave i really appreciate it, but I need to get it back in service asap. The local guy can have it for me pretty quickly. I just thought I would ask to see if anyone had one, or knew of a cheaper solution.

I have been getting a 0234 code since I bought my truck (in July) and realized that the wastegate was stuck closed, and finally decided to fix it. This is supposed to be a pretty straight forward job. Pull the turbo, free the wastegate and reinstall.Mr. Murphy arrived to help me and I learned about his little law. So, I pulled the turbo and the started working on the wastegate with heat, PB Blaster, and a baby ball peen hammer. I patiently tapped heated and squirted for an hour. Then I think, call Mike Nelson for advice. So Mike advised me to remove the back plate (don't know what it's called) that what-cha-ma-call-it that hooks the turbo to the exhaust, so I can access the wastegate from the rear and heat and apply PB Blaster from both sides. Good advice.After about four more hours of tapping heating and squirting, the weld holding the wastegate actuator arm fatigued, broke and fell off. The shaft is frozen solid. So now I need a new exhaust housing and wastegate for my HY35. Anyone want to guess what I am getting for Christmas?I found a supplier who sells them for $385. Anyone know of a cheaper place? (This a new exhaust housing including the wastegate)FYI, this truck was drove 600 miles during the 18 months before I bought it, thus the really frozen wastegate. Low mileage trucks are nice to find but this is one of the things you have to expect as a possible repair with one.

Well sort of. I installed it, and couldn't finish the job. The tools are still on the shop floor with the plow frame. I had to quit. Then I was down in bed for the last two days because of it. I am going into the hospital Monday to have an epidural done. Maybe that will get me going enough again so I can finish the job. I remember being able to do these things and never having to think about being able to finish a job. Guys, appreciate your health. It is a very humbling experience to have someone wipe your backside because you can't.

Well, the steering brace is installed. (the one listed above by johnfak) I can't say that I see any difference in the steering. However, I wasn't having any problems with my truck wandering or tracking wrong. I have a snow plow and this was a preventive measure as opposed to a cure. A little modifying was necessary to fit the brace with the snow plow mounting frame, but it works. The cummins is heavy enough, add a snow plow and that is a good bit of stress on the steering box.

Thanks, I saved their website for future reference. I will be replacing all the brake lines sometime in the future and they look like they could be a good source for them.

That is a very good idea. I think I will keep it simple at first and check to pressure with the test gauge to see if my gauge is the problem. After that I will try the wire switch.I just took the truck for a short drive. When I started it, 13.5 psi. 20 minutes later started it again to come home, 15.5 psi. I need to break out the old crystal ball I used to use when I first married my wife (to be able to read her mind like every good husband should) and figure this thing out. I am better at mind reading these days and don't need it so much.

Yes, when I am able I will put a test port in the line to the gauge so I don't have to bleed the system everytime I need to check it. I had hoped that I wouldn't ever need one, but that isn't the case. This morning it had 13.5 psi at idle. There wouldn't have been a vacuum situation in the tank when starting it in the morning. It was 47 degrees, not too cold.And to answer your question Dave, No, it made no difference when I took the cap off. The pressure still stayed the same.

I have the draw straw 5 installed with the Air Dog 100 and the big line kit from the original fuel canister filter. This has only been on for about 3 or 4 tanks of fuel now. I am down below half a tank now and the pressure seems to be getting better again. (This doesn't explain last nights lousy pressure though) If I am able to walk well enough tomorrow I will fill it up and see what happens. If it drops I am going to take the cap off and drive it that way to check it. I wonder if one could ake an old cap from a wreck and modify it with a tube to hook an air line to and be able to pressurize the tank to clear the valve?Thanks for the help.

Jag1, The other day when I left for the hospital I fueled up and headed directly onto the interstate for nearly 100 miles. The fuel pressure was good before filling up, then after filling (to the filler neck) and driving for a while it started dropping to the lower levels.Thinking about this problem on the drive home, I stopped on a exit ramp and took the fuel cap off and looked at the fuel pressure gauge. It was still reading 14.5 at idle with the cap off. I put the cap back on and resumed my trip and the pressure stayed at the same levels as before taking the cap off. I assumed it couldn't be the cap as I thought the fuel pressure gauge would have returned to normal after taking the cap off. Where is the tank vent located?Still think it could be her hormones. Is there a dipstick for that?

Well, I managed to limp out to the truck today to go to McDonalds, I am having caffiene withdrawal not having that sweet tea for a few days, (I am sure someone out there knows what I mean). I start it up and Guess what, 16.5-17 psi @ idle and 13.5 wide open throttle. I can't believe it, 12 hours ago it was at least 3.5 psi lower at idle. I am going to wait until the pressure drops again and then hook up the test gauge to see if the gauge is reading right. This is a worry that I am getting tired of.Hey Dave, Do you think her whores are moaning again? For those who didn't read the other post where we talked about this, that's what my wife calls it when she is hormonal.

My friend with a 2000 2500 ctd and called me a while back when he got his letter Dodge, asked me to check and see if he had the 53 block. Yep, sure did. He has 130K on it, bought it with 60K on it a few years ago. No crack, (yet). I talked to him last night and asked if he filed the paperwork for his money. He said he threw it away as he said the way he read the paperwork, one has to produce reiceipts for the block replacement in order to qualify. Is this correct? Is this $500 only for those who have lost an engine?

There are no apparent fuel leaks that I can see from beside the truck looking under. My wife said she can't see anything wet under it when she got down and looked, that is as good as I can do right now as far as checking it until I can walk better again. Dave, the Air Dog 100 doesn't have the pre screen. In the last "go round" I tore it apart and it wasn't there, so I called Pureflow and they said they quit putting them in.As far as the needle valve. It appears to be working right. Upon start it takes about five seconds for the needle to rise to full pressure, and when I shut if off it does about the same. No apparent fuel leaks inside the cab. In order to leak that kind of pressure off it would be spraying a good bit and I am sure I wouldn't miss that.The idea of the gauge being bad is probably a good start. As soon as I am able, I will put my pressure test gauge back on it and see what it reads. I need to plumb a test port in there somewhere as I have to unhook my gauge line under the hood in order to test it, then I have to bleed the air out of the line again. I get to screw around with that "Pain In The ___" line hook up at the back of the gauge again. Those little crush ferrels are a pain to get to seal right. I need to put that gauge on hinges, I have looked at it so many times.

Well here we go again. I have noticed recently that the pressure is dropping slowly. It has gone from 17.5 psi about a week and a half ago, to 16.5 a week ago, to 15 few days ago (while on a 90 mile trip to the hospital), now it is down to about 13.5 psi. this evening (at idle). Just revving it up a bit it would drop to 11.5 psi. (not under load) I haven't been able to look at it to see what the problem is as I have been pretty much bed ridden for a week due to a back injury. It's is hell watching your fuel pressure drop while driving to the hospital! I can't get in my wife's puddle jumper when I hurt like this so old blue had better not quit on me now.Until I get well enough to check it out I thought I might ask and see if anyone would have any idea of what is going on so I know what way to look once I am back on my feet.Thanks guys for all the help. This forum has been a God send for me. I can't turn the wrenches right now, but my fingers still work.