DezrtRat

I got my transmission rebuilt lately and got an extremely good deal ($850) thanks to a family member (in-law). Prior to getting rebuilt, I had an issue where the truck wouldn't move when first started. Wasn't much of a problem since I warm up the engine before putting it into gear. After driving it for a couple of weeks, it started doing it again. I believe someone here said the fluid was draining out of the TC while it sat due to a bad seal or something. OK, here's the question. What harm can this do to my transmission? I'm reluctant to take it back since I got it done so cheap. --- Update to the previous post... Sorry Mike, I meant to post this in the 2nd gen section. I also duplicated the post when I couldn't find it.

I had an issue where my truck wouldn't move when put into gear until it warmed up. Someone here said it was a seal or pump. Well, I had it rebuilt and got a good deal ($850) from an in-law. After a couple of weeks, the problem is back. I usually warm up the engine so it hasn't bothered me especially since it works fine once warm. The question is whether or not it will damage the transmission as long as I warm it up? I'm reluctant to take it back since I got such a good deal.

Been following this thread since the beginning...when is that head coming off the old motor. The suspence is killing me.

I'm a Safety Manager, we need LOTS of signs like this:lol:

Wow! you guys are lucky. Living in southern Arizona (extreme heat), we are lucky to get 3 years out of a battery (usually 2). Some do better with the red/yellow top Optimas but they only get about 5 years max.

That could be, but he did the same thing to the three vehicles in front of me and two of them were POS. It just made me curious.

After wrecking my truck and the insurance company totalling it, I had it repaired. But before I could legally drive it, I had to get a level-3 MVD inspection here in Arizona. During the inspection, which took place in a small garage at MVD, the inspector asked me to step out while he checked the (i believe the term he used was) confidential number. He then closed the door so I couldn't see what or where he was looking. Have you guys got any idea what number he was looking for and where it is?

Sorry to hijack but will this manual cover a 99 or is there a different one...and where can I get it? Thanks

Right on! I only smell it when the truck is sitting still while running and when the vent fan is running. Thanks:thumbup2:

Before I changed out the motor and tranny there were lots of spots in my driveway so it didn't bother me. But now there are no drips but I still get that burned oily smell once in a while. Being a rooky, is there something I don't know about? I can't see any obvious cause of this odor.

Thank you. That's what I did this past weekend. When I could hear that the motor wasn't straining and the Tranny temps were low (~150), I would turn on the OD, but as soon as I felt or saw a substancial incline coming up, I would turn it off. With diesel getting so costly, everything I can do to conserve helps.

Yes, it was just rebuilt (stock). Has about 8 hours on it.

I have a 21' toy hauler that I estimate to weigh about 6k loaded. The question is: is it ok to tow on relatively flat ground with the tranny in OD?

Before I begin, let me say that I love my Ram. That being said, I have learned a LOT about buying from someone you don't know (-$9,500). First (and I already knew this), the tires were worn out (replaced (-$750) Shortly after buying the truck, I found out the block (53) was cracked (recently replaced) (-$2,000 - got a good deal). Then I noted some trany issues and after wrecking the truck it finally quit (had it rebuilt) (-$850 - another great deal). Truck stalled and wouldn't start. Found bad VP44 (replaced) (-$970 plus -$500 labor). I had starting issues and found out after replacing both batteries (-$300) that the starter was shot (replaced) (-$200). After the wreck where it was totalled by insurance company (+10,800), there was an issue with the charging system, where I found my alternator was shot (replaced yesterday) (-$180). Upon inspecting it when picking up from body shop, discovered cracked windshield (replaced) (freebee on body shop). Which brings me to today when I was driving home from Lake Havasu where I was getting the vehicle inspected by MVD to restore the title. The brand new serpentine belt shreaded (replaced) (-$104). Whew, looks like I've got a new truck. And did I mention I've only put about 4000 miles on it?

I'll have it checked out. Worked great until accident. Wasn't a huge impact and did very little visual damage.

My charging guage is indicating that it's not charging correctly (leaning left). I messed with some wiring to the alternator yesterday and today it worked fine coming to work. Just took a short drive and it's leaning toward the left again. I'll take a closer look at the wires/plug again but my question is what other components are involved in the charging system on these trucks? The batteries are new and I had the alternator checked in November (two days before my wreck) and it checked good then.

OK, try not to throw the BS flag at me when you read this. I mentioned that the trany lines were touching and that I had a shake/vibration. Well, yesterday I put some rubberized tape between the lines and...the vibration/shake went away...mostly. Either way it is almost unoticable now.

Thanks for the info. I'm wondering if there's metal-to-metal contact between the trany and the frame/body somewhere. I'll have to check it out when I get home. What are your thoughts on that theory?

What would be another indicator I can look for if there is a bad injector? --- Update to the previous post... OK, they used my old injectors and it ran fine before. Could it be air? I forget, how do you bleed them?

I'm not sure but I will ask. The RPMs are good. What are your concerns about the injectors? I know the injector pump is from my old engine since it's new (remanufactured). Fuel pressure is a solid 20 psi at idle.

So, what do you think is causing my vibration? It feels like a broken motor mount, if that helps clarify what I'm feeling. Could it be air in the fuel system?

So, I finally got my truck back from the shop today. Even though I saved a bunch of money by using my son-in-law's dad's shop, I have some issues. I'll start with a question about the transmission lines that go to the heat exchanger. The guys at the shop crossed the lines and now they are touching. My question is whether it's ok to use anti-chafe tape or do I need to re-route them or is this not an issue and I should just ignore it? ThanksAlso, I have a...vibration or shake that is different than the old engine. It's worse in neutral than in gear. Other than that it runs great. Any input is welcomed. Thanks

It was stenciled on the front of the block.

Sorry for any confusion. I know where the 53 is, I was wondering where to look on the new engine block (made in Mexico).

I'm also interested in this. When they were trying to find a replacement for my 99 53 block engine they tried one from (they believe) an 01 or 02. This one didn't have the crank sensor.