DezrtRat

Not yet. Probably won't get to it for a week or so. Got to chance it and tow my toy hauler to the mountains here in Arizona for a hunting trip. I guess I'll have to keep my fingers crossed. Can't miss bull elk hunt. Gotta have priorities.

Although my block is cracked with signs of leakage, it doesn't actually leak until the RPMs are around 2k. And yes, it's very hard to see when installed. behind the heat exchanger just above the freeze plugs between the 2nd & 3rd plug.

Thanks but I've already tried this and the previous owner (as I discovered) also put in a frequency filter. I'll keep checking for corroded contact areas. I don't like my battery terminal setup and have been considering other options. Don't know if it's from the factory but the positive connector on the main battery has a lot hooked to the terminal. I've cleaned and tightened them before. What other grounds should I check and where are they located? Thanks

If it comes down to it Diesel Auto Power was recommended to me by Mike and others. It was $970 and Jacob also gave me a $15 member's discount. So far so good and he offers a 1-year unlimited mile warranty. Got it quick and he doesn't charge for the core unless you don't return it within 30 days. Didn't need it but people report that he has great service as well.

I figure they're just trimming the fat from the huge number of people affected by this defect. I'm not one to jump on board a lawsuit (don't need the hassel) but could always use $500 I didn't have before. Can buy quite a bit of Coors Lite with $500.

Haven't seen any temps above 160. Guess I'll have to take a look at the TC. I know it's got that draining issue where the fluid drains from the TC when not running for a few hours. If I try to put it into gear without allowing warm-up time, which I avoid, it won't move for a few seconds. Thanks for the help...again.

Don't know much about diesels but have some insight into the 53 block thing (I've got one). If you've got one and you're not losing coolant, then you should check it out. All of the ones I've read about cracked due to either performance add-ons, which equals hard driving, or people hauling heavy loads under semi-extreme conditions. So, if you've got one, you should find out and then avoid the situations that cause the cracks. I've got "only" 210K miles on mine but have read where many people have gotten more than twice that many miles without cracking.

The guy that changed the VP also changed the filter/fluid and adjusted the bands (yesterday). Not sure if the trany is modified but was told it had been rebuilt about 50k miles ago. Guy turned out to be a liar so no telling what's true. Yes, I run a Edge Juice w/attitude. This shifting happens at slow speeds (5-10 MPH) but doesn't feel like it's slipping at those speeds at all. Once while towing my 21 ft toy hauler w/toy inside, it felt like it slipped (higher RPMs than normal) when taking off from a stop turning a corner that had a bit on an incline. What's the best test of a transmission on these vehicles, short of power-braking and smoking the tires...or is that the true test?

I wonder if I have to be the original owner? Guy I bought it from knew it was cracked and didn't disclose the information and I didn't know what to look for, which is my fault for not doing my homework. I guess I'll have to wait to see if I get a notice.

Was wondering why my 99 Cummins is SO much louder than my buddy's 07? Is it better insulation inside the newer truck or is the engine actually quieter? Thanks

I have a "minor" issue but figure I had better ask now before it gets worse. While travelling at very slow speeds through my neighborhood at the point where the trany shifts from 1st to 2nd it tends to jump back and forth from 1st to 2nd to 1st, and so on. Simply advancing or reducing the RPMs makes it quit. Any ideas? Tanks

You're probably in luck. The 53, as you know, is easy to see and find.

Just wanted to come back and say, "thanks" to everyone that helped out. Replaced (well, had it replaced) VP and it runs great.

I was asking Jacob about possible issues with the new pump and told him about my setup. Due to my lift pump psi being around 20-22 at idle, he said it was a little too high and not to "tap the injection pump." Can someone tell me what that means? Thanks

So what's the opinion of fuel additives?

Well, pump is in the mail. Thanks to Jacob for not only the cheapest price of remanufactured/tesed pump, but also a forum discount.

When I went to check the numbers on the pump so I know which one to order, I only found a barcode. The barcode was just above the feed line and the banjo fitting. Isn't this where it is supposed to be or is there one in a different location? I need to get this thing on order but I'm not sure which one I need. Do you think this is an aftermarket pump? Is there some kind of standard for 99 5.9's? Are 99's the same as 2000's? Thanks --- Update to the previous post... Found Diesel Auto Power on the Cummins forum. Has anyone ever dealt with them or know anything positive or negative about them?

You are welcome but I haven't been on active duty (Marine Corps) for 22 years. I have, however, been a contractor for the Marine corps ever since. The kids today impress me beyond imagination with their dedication and sacrifice. I have to step back once in a while to notice since I work with them every day. Always keep them in your prayers.

I guess you're right. I figure the guy who owned my truck before me beat it up pretty bad; however, if the code is correct it might just be the electronic portion of the pump and no one can predict the life of an electrical component. Been working on military jets for 30 years and have seen both extremes.

So, now you've got me wondering. What is the life expectancy of an injector pump if it's not "hot rodded?"I am fortunate to have a friend who (at one point in his life) was a certified educated diesel mechanic and he's willing to do the install with my help (I almost said he would help me).

I've made it to the acceptance stage. What do you guys know about Thoroughbred Diesel, if anything? They're offerring a rebuilt and tested pump with 2 year warranty for a little under $1k. Or do you have any other sources? I getting ready to have two of my three vehicles in the shop for maintenance so, I'm trying to estimate how much $$$ I'll need.

OK, let me give you as many facts as I can. I'm accepting the fact that I probably need an injector pump but want to be sure. Here goes.Opening the drain valve to the fuel/water separator and running the lift pump, I'm getting 22 psi on Edge monitor and a 1/2" stream of fuel (replaced fuel filter). However, when I opened the banjo fitting on the injector pump I got fuel but it doesn't appear to be as much fuel. I realize that the fuel isn't in a stream because the path it has to take from the fitting to the ground (yes, I'm using a drip pan). Does this sound about right?If that's right I probably need a new injector pump since the flow from the #1 injector is weak. So, do you have a source and an approximate price for a rebuilt pump you'd recommend? Trying to figure out how much cash I need to get together. Been a fun two weeks. Not only did my truck die, but my wife's Mazda Tribute's air-conditioner fragged out.Any advice or recommendations are welcome

I've been on this forum less than a week and have already gained useful information I didn't get at other larger forums. No big sponsors here so let's do something to keep this thing going. What is there, 1300+ members? A few bucks here and there won't hurt. Thanks

Gotta ask, why 3, 4, & 5? I'm just comparing to the advice I got to check the flow, which was 1, 3, & 4.

My toys