DezrtRat

I had my 53 block replaced with another complete motor. I know where the 53 was stamped but where should I look on this one. There is a stamp on the front that says made in Mexico. Does this mean it's a 55?

OK, I should have been more specific. It's an auto and I primarily use it to tow my 21 ft toy hauler (approximately 6k loaded). Other than that, it will be driven casually. Meaning that at age 47 I don't plan to race the kids or try to pull much larger trailers; however, my wife wants to upgrade to a 5th wheel toy hauler and I do tow up some pretty steep hills/mountains a couple/few times a year.

So, I'll be getting my truck back from the shop next week with a non-53 block engine and a stock rebuilt transmission. I've heard of people who claim they've replaced their trany within a year of new. What are the facts? How long does a rebuild last and what precautions can I take to extend the life? Thanks

Whew!!! My repair shop finally found a motor. I sure wasn't looking forward to dealing with that 53 any more. Thanks for all the advice. I believe the guy at the body shop (my son-in-law's dad) is going to try to repair the crack and keep the motor. I'll pass all this info on to him. He's pondering the idea of putting it in an old Willys 4x4 waggon.

This is correct. There are a specific amount of turns required for each transmission (they are all different) so it is important to look it up in your repair manual.

I've heard conflicting information about how much vapor pressure exists inside a Cummins during normal operating temperatures. One guy said it was outrageously high while another said it can't exceed the radiator cap pressure rating. Is the pressure greater inside the engine than inside the radiator?

So let me run this by you guys. Instead of strengthening the area from the inside, how about attaching (not sure whether to weld, bolt, or use adhesive) a plate to the entire outside area where they're prone to crack. Started thinking about this after talking to the guys at Lock N Stitch yesterday. They want to sell me three plates to cover the whole area because they say that once the cracked area has been repaired, another crack may occur. Yes, this is temporary but the engine is currently out so we have access to the whole area.

Thanks for the fedback. I'm so surprised how hard it is to find a used motor that's not a 53 block. I can buy used 53's all day for around $1500 but then I would always be wondering. I'm doing this repair with the insurance money from my wreck. Fortunately for me, my son-in-law's dad who owns a body shop is doing the insurance work. Coincidentally, his brother has been welding all his life. AND he isn't charging any labor to R&R the engine. So, I think we'll weld it up, put a plate over the area, and run it til I find the right motor. Maybe save up and just buy a new long block. Just can't justify putting too much money into a truck with a salvaged title.

So, I wrecked my truck and decided to replace the engine due to the 53 block being cracked. Problem has been finding anything other than a 53. So, I'm back to the idea of repairing the block. I will not be hotrodding this truck. In fact, I've only put about 3k miles on it since buying it in January 2011 (tow vehicle only). I also know that I should replace the block. I'm looking for no kidding factual information from experienced folks who have either succeeded or failed at repairs, whether it be by welding or Lock N Stitch. Thanks

And I guess the news of the 53 is out. In trying to find me a new/used motor, my mechanic is only finding 53s for sale. Still looking in the southwest if anyone has any information.

Me either, my apologies. Maybe dealers/vendors should have an identifying mark.

Awesome! I'm finally getting rid of my 53 and can't wait to get my truck back. I can completely understand the relief of not having to constantly refill the water (gave up on antifreeze a few months ago - not cold here in southern Arizona).

Diesel Auto Power is a vendor on this site

I just had to replace mine also. Got a rebuilt one from Diesel Auto Power, good people, and it cost less than $1000.

They say it's from an 00 but that's a good question. Answers?

Ok, I finally got my settlement check and am looking forward to getting my truck back. The repair shop found me an engine with a 60 block. Since having a 53 block, I don't want to run into any issues like that in the future. Is there an issue with 60 blocks? Are they from a good source? Just looking for the warm fuzzy before buying it. Thanks

Don't the 3rd generation trucks have a 6-speed (better) automatic trany than the 2nd gens? Can it be mated with a 2nd gen 5.9? What are the issues? Thanks

Man, I wish I had read this thread prior to my elk hunting trip (read "wrecked my truck" thread). I grew up in Florida and now live in southern Arizona, so I don't see much snow. The guy who said pull over and wait it out had the right idea. I was in 2nd gear (auto - so not to put too much torque to the ground), in 4WD high, with brand new tires. All that didn't help me stop...especially since I was towing a 6k pound trailer.

Yes it will but I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off...even then I'll probably buy new wheels.

Any suggestions on sources?

So, the insurance company totalled my truck although the visual damege doesn't justify it. I currently plan to buy it back and fix it. I'm looking for an engine. The block (53) is cracked and I think this is a good time to replace it. So, I'm looking for suggestions and sources for a used or rebuilt motor. Or should I go with a new short block? I don't know how much they're going to offer me yet but want to explore my options before then. Thanks

I was towing my 21 foot toy hauler full of gear through a winding road during a storm. The snow plows hadn't made it through yet. What I didn't know was that there had been an accident around the corner that had backed up traffic a bit. So, without any police or flares etc I was unable to stop in time and rearended a guys truck and trailer. My damage was minimal visually, however, the trany isn't shifting right (I slammed it into low in an effort to stop) and the front end will need some work.

I think the truck will be ok, and I DID get an elk, so not all bad news.

I learned a valuable lesson this pat week and thought I'd share it in case there are others who don't know this. While I was hunting last week I noticed that my truck was slow to start. It sounded like dead battery. It got worse to the point where I had to have it jumped. It then got so bad that even jumping it with another diesel (two known good batteries) wouldn't turn it over any faster. After calling Mike from Arizona where I live, and also talking to a couple other guys, I was directed toward the starter and the starter cable. I removed the starter and went to an O'Rielly's to have it tested. On their machine it tested good. So, I went back to camp (50+ miles) and reinstalled it. Of course it still didn't work so I continued troubleshooting the connections. Everything OHMed out good so I called a third guy (couldn't reach Mike the 2nd time) who said that the testers at these stores don't put a load on the started and that it was bad. Long story short, I bought a new starter and it fixed my problem. Following the repair I tried to beat a snow storm but didn't and ended up whecking my truck...but that's another story.

I also have a cracked block and have found new long blocks for around $6k. I know there's installation labor costs but to end up with a rebuilt instead of new sounds a little high. What kind of warranty are they offering?