JAG1

Using a pair of vise grips and a piece of leather, I wonder if you could park nose up hill each day and place the vise grip on the rubber fuel line in various places acting as fuel shut off to help narrow down the location of the so called air vent allowing the fuel drain back? Another thought..... check the factory filter cap since I have heard of them getting a crack. It's one of the highest areas of fuel in the system.

My flat bed truck has the return only a little above what the fuel module height is since the fill neck is on the outside of flat bed rail. Makes hard to fill. Other standard bed is up higher.

I understand now... I was misunderstanding in thinking that it meant he was loosing prime parked and the line not all the way down into the fuel, i.e. some of the return line draining into the tank and introducing air into the system.

Then how do you explain that I've no problems for 11 years with my return dumping into my fuel fill neck? I can take off the fill cap and see it running in there......

Why is the barbed portion of drawstaw fitting looking new (Aluminum like) when the male threaded portion looks old? At any rate, I would replace the top one (fuel supply) with new. It doesn't look like it was installed right (possible too much teflon tape) and the hoses are supposed to be further up the barbed fittings. I shave off some of those mountain tops on the barbs. They are too tall, too extreme, which then lets me get the hose all the way onto the barbed fitting and make a tight seal using correctly sized ss hose clamps. I never liked those 'himalayan barbs' I call them. Mopar1973Man, trying to edit my post here, I know they will get combined is how I added this, but it will not let me edit my own post here. Just want to say something about replacing the fitting on the drawstraw; Be sure to hold the draw straw head in a bench vise so as to not stress or crack the module plastic.

Once draw straw is installed the return is supposed to be moved over or hooked up to what was the original fuel supply port.

Check integrity of the factory wires where the wire taps are. You might dig into the PO's work a little more and find other things. It's a good thing developing a sharp eye over your truck. Glad your finding more things.

PO500 is just loss of traction code. I get that all the time going up my gravel road because its not a limited slip differential. probably about a 15% grade. Don't forget to check the quality of the alternator ground thru the mounting bolt and Bracket. W-T says it's real important. Besides cleaning all contact surfaces to the mounting hardware I also ran a ground from the alternator housing to the passenger battery. IBMobile did the same on his.

I just did a search on the DDRP lift pumps. Unbelievable bad reviews about it on Amazon. Not only is there no regulator but they have had some failures, one in as little as 2,000 miles. One guy got an empty box sent to him when he ordered one and then the company never sent another shipment like they said and no response from the company until the guy finally gave up. Another had a failure in 10k miles. Your lift pump may be failing based on what I just read. I would be going for a different brand L/P with the proper relay wire harness and big line kit included. Vulcan performance parts can set you up with the whole kit. If Eric is going to wholesale only he can still send you in the right direction to get his kit. I have them on both my trucks.

I don't know a whole lot, but I do know with your symptoms I would want to hook up the snap on computer screen that shows a graph on what the APPS is doing. However, since the factory APPS is cheaply built and some claim it's a dog gone Piece of fecal matter..... I would just go ahead and put on the Timbo Apps to further a step in the right direction for a reliable, better built truck. Timbo Apps is a must really. IMHO Can you get us a pic of the 'odd' wire your talking about? I can compare it to both my trucks that way. Or describe in detail where its running?

One day Dripley will meet up with us out west . Just think of the jobsite stories coming 'all out of just two trucks' It's the coolest to see you guys met up. He lost his feathers in the last hurricane but grow back very fast.

I taped after I put on the black flexible conduit pieces, using two different sizes, on the ends and some of the middle sections.

I got a small piece of sheet metal to use as a heat shield to prevent damage, but that was with the big flame thrower type plumbers torch. Really want to get the pencil torch. I think that would be a nice tool. Exalted85, I have one of those soldering irons like yours. I never have gotten it to work properly. You hold the flame to the crimped portion of the terminal while holding the solder to the wire ends and it will flow thru nicely. Once it flows it is enough, you don't want to damage the wire insulation. You can clamp on any kind of wire jaw or clamp to the wires to act like a heat sink so your less likely to melt the insulation while soldering, but shrink tubing with adhesive is good stuff and a little bit of insurance if you do degrad it a bit.

May be off topic a bit, but Fass doesn't place an inlet screen on their lift pumps do they? Just like the two Raptor 150's I got over a year ago, I had to pull out those screens you can see down in the inlet side of the lift pump.

Sounds like it is set up right the way Vulcan performance Parts has instruction to that effect. I do like it when the screens get removed off the module though. If there is any problem at the module it may be the connections at the top.

Yes unbolting that and can then be used for the power source for the lift pump if you like. Be sure and try soldering the four small grounds into the ring terminal if you can. They are pretty important. I did this to both my 2nd gens with very good results in cutting the ripple down by over half

I know Mike, my leak at the VP connection usually caused no hard start except once in a while. Usually only after sitting all weekend and even then was only longer cranking time is all.

Air gets in the system from up front, acts like a vent to let the fuel drain back and fills with air making it hard to start. Instead of raising the bed right off you should check for air leaks on all fuel lines that are higher than the level of the fuel in the tank. Which are mostly up front in the engine bay. Run your fingers around the vp connection and all other connection areas for anything wet. Best to check after a run when fuel pressure can reveal those areas of a leak. Like said before though, the fastest drainback/ loss of prime was when my fuel filter cap was not torqued to the 25 ft lbs. required. Hope you find it. BTW, I got rid of my quick connects as well.

I had my factory fuel filter cap not seated correctly and kept getting fuel drainback to the tank letting air into the system. This only a guess though. After shut down you have to feel around each fuel connection for anything even slightly wet. Mine was a new 1/2 inch line connection to the inj. pump had a small imperfection on my second truck and I just emery clothed it and put it back in. No more leaks thanks to Dripley on teaching me that one. When you pressurize the tank does it fire right off? Faulty tank vent?

Hard to tell, but that cliff looks to be a hundred feet tall and water is reaching almost twice that. Amazing. Trreed, nice shots and love the one of your dog in the leaves, that's cool.

Dave110, every year dripley coats his whole engine in chicken grease. Just a thought about the two power leads to the grids..... Is it possible the insulating washers have deteriorated or are dirty enough to cause a degree of 'earth leak' creating a higher load than when new? I have seen dirt on a battery top cause a mild short or draw between the posts.

Humm..... stirring chicken soup

Excellent effort in finding a helpful result. Thank you

Thanks 'IB' ...... I like that range, its good place to go. The AR is something I never got a hold of until then. It's really amazing

I really like my Henry 22 Magnum. Starting to get good with it. Like to get a Henry 45 as well. They are very smooth.