JAG1

First trip down the highway I had front driveline vibration at around 60/65 mph. Differential off center enough to cause that. Installed adjustable track bar and got recentered. Next when loaded the headlights were shining up too high had to get air bags to relevel the truck. Sway bar links were too short so got longer ones. My other 2nd gen truck sits level without a leveling kit. I don't know what was done by the PO but it's not lifted at all and rides real nice by comparison. I like it a lot better. Both second gens are 4x4s. One is 01 and the other is 02.

That's the best way to do it as my 2 inch level kit cost a bunch of money when finally done correctly. Sorry Evan to drill a hole in your boat..... JMHO.

Hey, 'Mopar1973Man', While I got your attention..... do you listen for chatter on the tires to road or to the clutches inside the differential if there isn't enough additive? Thank you I put 4 ounces in the gear oil like IBMobile said to do. Mine takes 4 and a half qts. Seems to be smooth no chattering, but still need to make some tight turns when I've got time.

Check the alternator for bad grounding. The bracket and mounting bolt(s) could be corroded enough to be losing ground.My OHM meter showed a very weak ground thru the bracket. A lot of guys clean up the bolt and bracket real good, but I ran a ground wire from Alt housing to battery ground.

I'm hoping Mopar1973Man would jump in soon to offer some help. I am guessing if I say anything pertaining to your trouble. A new alternator can have a bad diode sending excess AC volts ripple throughout the system. If I remember correctly AC ripple can confuse the computer, but I'm not certain the PCM even controls when the Air Conditioning compressor clutch kicks back on. Again I am guessing when I say the low pressure switch to the ac might be faulty. It's around a 35 dollar part and sits on top of the accumulator tank. I think that's right. IBMobile has educated me on this some, but being involved in many unrelated projects lately....

Rascal Head

I know.... I was just meant it to be light hearted not stirring the pot as I'm terrible cook anyway.

I'm glad yer not my Doctor, Evan It's not hard to add 4 ounces in there and sure is nice being able to pull out the concrete pump when he got stuck They were amazed.

I got to do this to my work rig. rear diff takes about 4.5 qts of oil..... so how much additive? I'm old guy so liters belong up in Canada not down here.

I made the trip in early morning snow once. It was amazing how little traffic there was going thru Vancouver and Portland, oregon. That was a cool ride just like the old days when hardly anyone around back in the 70's I think Mopar Man made that bracket himself.

I went to Erics' house to get my big line kits for each truck, about 9 yrs apart and he acted like the longer sweeps were standard equipment with his kits. I like his operation and his manners. It's just too bad that some bad customers threw a monkey wrench into his business. He is trying to not let it get the best of him is what he explained to me. All I could say was in spite of it all, keep the faith.

The Vulcan big line kit does not have a hard 90 going into the VP. It is a long sweep 90 which helps not restrict the flow. Vulcan stuff is the best and best price too. Eric is good man..... no hard 90s at all as matter of fact.

No, I think he was on the phone when posting and they were giving the final report on a magniflux for his Ford engine

nice motorhome too

Thanks Dripley, I don't know how folks started calling them O rings since they are really sealing washers. I have saved a few of those when redoing my fuel systems to three different trucks. I don't think they are designed to use a second time, but being a little bit of distance from town I think I may have reused them successfully only a couple times on easy reach areas is all.

Are they actual 'O' rings or sealing washers? I would think you can go to any parts store and match up O ring size. Tractor supply, hydralic hose places, Even hardware stores have assortments in drawers.

He been eatin nothin' but chicken lately....we got to give him a break this time around. Evan, have you ever ridin in the back of a pick up in winter. Right between the frame rails you can feel the pick up bed floor staying warm. Nice to sit there when cold. Plus fuel lines out of the wind in winter should help when the block heater been on for 3 hours. Have a little faith and I struggle just like you too.

No, leaks are not common on a new kit. I am only trying to help ... we really don't want you to over tighten and damage something. Much better to emery cloth on the face of the fitting if you have tried tightening a couple times rather than risk striping the threads. Just go very easy with the wrench till you start up the engine and are able to check for leaks, then turn the ones that are weeping just a little more until it stops. Its not hard we are expressing the careful side of installing a big line kit. We all have a lot of respect for our engines and want to help you develop good practices that we all seem to share on this forum.

Mine would leak when new and just snugged, not tight. Then after tightening for 3 more tries it would not stop leaking. Dripley taught me to take it off and emery cloth the end and put back on. That stopped it. Thanks Dripley

And all along I thought 'Death Wobble' was when a chicken wandered near a Chic-Fil-A restaurant.

As long as you guys will still go to church and not let this take over your whole life it's okay then.

If I know Daniel, he's got it insured for 50 grand

Be watchful that they don't try selling you a product that is a modified tar base. It needs to expressly state Polyurethane and cleans up with acetone or lacquer thinner. It would be nice also if it states that moisture or any condensation during cure time will accelerate the process of curing. That is how polyurethane reacts to water... it shortens the time required for curing.