CUMMINSDIESELPWR

dont think he knew you were a dealer. i didnt know until your post above

that new alternator is hosed. you should have around ~14vDC on the battery terminals with grid heaters off. it will drop to ~12vDC when the grid heater kicks in. I have checked this with a meter on the terminals with these results and grid heater cycling.

my pressure sensor is at the return line on the vp and im reading ~19 at idle WOT about ~14. Ive had no problem with this for over a couple years now.

$850 for all that and install?? wow talk about twice the price for the same stuff... $200 for the brace here http://www.solidsteel.biz/dss.htm $250 3rd gen trackbar here http://sourceautomotive.biz/1994-2002dodgenon-adjustabletrackbar.aspx $450 for both and install yourself, this pretty much is what im going with. I did find though after replacing my trackbar for the 4th time yesterday that the hole on the axle side is worn wider now causing more movement. I placed a half inch barstock in the pocket behind the end of the trackbar and installed. No more movement. I will eventually rebuild that box with some heavy duty steel and drill the hole out for the new setup. it wont "waller" out anymore after that.

with the cost of them and the time to replace, i dont think anyone wants to volunteer to do this test lol:doh:

explain this again? what is the voltage reading on the battery terminals when idling? are you sure the grid heater solenoids are not stuck closed? i dealt with a similar issue of zero on the batt gauge...

and still be able to do 80 and out manuever anything! at least they have good taste in vehicles over there! go tough or go home!

i had this issue last year, a few things:did you put the orings on dry or lubed? they should be dry, mine were dry and i have no issues.did you use scotchbrite pads on the mating surfaces of the injector lines? i did this and there was a bunch of corrosion and crap on them, this will help seat the lines to the tubes. Also use the scotchbrite on the injector tube tips, just to get corrosion off. the pads are "abrasive" but not to metal. these are the green pads in packs of 3.I didnt touch the injectors so i cant say anything about that but like mike said there is a sequence to reinstalling them, seeing that the tube needs to align to the injector and not the other way around, do like he said and you should be good.You might want to check the banjo bolt on the back of the head for leakage as well. this is where most of mine was coming from and did the same coating as you mentioned.good luck mang!

Ill start from the beginning...About a year ago driving one day i noticed my check gauge lite come on and the volt meter was dead. Truck still running, i shut down and restarted no issues and it was gone. I figured it to be a dirty connection to the battery. It went away for about a year.6 months ago it happened again, same thing, shut down restart and went away...3 months ago yet again. this time i left it running and i checked with my volt meter as i was close to home and found it to be at ~12v at the battery. i figured it to be the alternator on its way out. I shut down and restarted and it was still at 12v but then jumped back to its normal ~14vthis past saturday it did it again, but i caught it before the check engine light came on. the volt gauge read ~12v. then dropped dead and check gauge light came on. I did a restart while coasting and it stayed the same so i headed home fast.pulled into the driveway, left it running got the volmeter out. I started checking this and that, and figured the alternator was toast as the voltage was not picking up and actually was dropping very very slowly.I shut the truck off and got a call, while talking i noticed a poof of faint smoke and freaked! the keys were out, nothing turned on and the damn grid heater was still running!!!!!!!!!!I pulled the leadds off the battery real fast and started troubleshooting. The intake horn was so damn hot i couldnt touch it and would have severely burned my hand. (cook bacon on it hot!)Well i disconnected the leads to the heater once it cooled and hooked the batteries back up. I checked for voltage on each lead and one was hot! So i traced them to the solenoids that sit on the DS wheel well and removed them. Long story short i had to rebuild the little buggers and found 2 issues.The solenoid that was providing voltage to the heater even when truck was off had the return spring on the bottom side of the contactor plate was very weak and wasnt springing back, basically it was leaving the solenoid closed curcuit and that is bad. I streched the spring and cleaned the contacts and everything, reassembled. its actually fairly easy to rebuild.the other solenoid was in worse condition. it got hot somehow long long ago and the shaft that the coil pushed on was bent and basically locked the thing open. It hasnt worked in a long time. It took a couple hours to rebuild that, with some injenuity and imagination i was able to get it to work.now the truck cycles the heat grid much better, no more check gauge lights so far and the heat cycles once started are very short. half of the heater grid has been dead for a long time, but now its working good! I think the alternator sensed a extreme power drain and basically shut down sorta like a self protect curcuit as the volt meter in the cluster would drop to nothing and i was watching the batteries drain while this all happened.Heater grid was fine, the solenoids were worn and old. i will look into new replacements off a junker or something.

$$$$. p-pumpstick with the vp.

yeah what dripley said. the HO pump has a different part number than the standard output pumps. you dont want to mix them up if im not mistaken.

i got my IP from thoroughbred diesel. they dont charge core up till a couple weeks of no core return. ensure you get the correct model too. auto tranny IP are a bit different than the manual tranny IP's.

the other issue i have found is that not only is the balljoint wearing, the cheap weak rubber on the axle side is worn and there is a ton of slop in it right now on my rig. I have to replace the bolt too. The heavy duty polyurethane bushings wont wear as easily as the rubber ones. and you can replace them easily when they to get a bit of slop in them.

could one drill into the injector return galley on the front of the head and tap it to fit a banjo so not only will the injector excess flow to the back of the head but the new banjo coming off the high pressure side from the lift pump will also perform additional cooling through the galley? just run a T fitting after the filter assembly to achieve this.thoughts?

god bless the inline 6! they are inherantly torque monsters! my bmw323i was an I6 and it had gobs of torque!

Brutus is plugged in for winter, once temps get to a constant ~40 or less during day as at night it gets to low 30 or lower. When i hop in i wait for light which is about 3 seconds then crank and sit for about 30 seconds. Then i pull out and am light on the skinny till i leave the hood and then hit up to 45 on main road. by this time its already barely moving the temp needle and i have heat within 5 minutes of leaving the driveway.if it is in single digits or lower i wait till i can hear the engine not working to idle (couple minutes or so) then its the same above. im easy on the skinny until the temp is at operating temp no matter what.

i have heard that too high of pressure will actually cause some diaphram (metallic) to burst rendering the vp to fail. I could be wrong so dont take this for fact yet. Too high of pressure does have a negative affect on the water bleed port on the stock filter assembly, my neighber that i installed a raptor 150 on his found this out. When after i installed it i adjusted the flow to 20psi max at idle, checked with manual fuel pressure gauge on test port then told him we need to readjust it in a few days as it will break in and flow more.Well he called me up saying he found fuel under his truck (iddy bitty puddle bout 3"diameter) and also his diff was washed with fuel. It led me to find that the pressure was hitting 30psi at the test port on pre-start up lift pump run, then 25psi engine running. This was actually forcing the valve of the water in fuel dump to open and push fuel out.After readjusting the pressure back to 20psi max idle he hasnt mentioned any issues since. Nothing else was wes from fuel and you could see that it was soaking around the water dump valve. I also tightened the valve as well.Too high of pressure could work past the banjo bolt sealing washers... ?

what they dont show is the return galley to the rear banjo for injector cooling.but this answered about a weeks worth of research to understand the fuel system

yeah not sure if he is wanting to check fuel or tranny pressure my post was for fuel

i bought an oil filled gauge at advance auto for bout $30 i think. they arent expensive

be careful, that is awefully close to dividing by zero. we all know what happens when you do that!

or freezing rain that would break the mirror trying to scrape it off

i get to deflate my tires for the ride home this morning. SNOW!!!! time to play!

i find that i think the mirrors reach a thermal limit and shut off. which is good so you dont bake or fry anything.

u need a shorty phillips for the back screw and there are 3