dennhop

I really need some help guys, if anyone has any knowledge of the HVAC wiring in these trucks. just to throw it out there, my number is seven 6 oh, 405-3016. Here's what happened........................I really have no idea what happened, to be honest...one minute it was working, the next it wasnt. I lost the lighting in the panel, and the blower motor quit working. I've pulled the motor, and tested it on the bench, and it spins perfectly. I checked the resistor (visually) and it seemed fine, but to double check, I overnighted a new one from Rock Auto. This is where I can't figure out what's going on. I have 12v to the fan when the truck is on-it should be spinning, but it's not. Also, the lighting in the hvac panel went screwy all of a sudden...now, with the truck running, and the lights off, when I turn the top knob (It's a 2000 model interior) to any one of the running positions, the panel lights up. As soon as I turn on the lights, the panel goes dark. The problem I'm running into is I can't find a wiring diagram for the back of the panel to save my life, and I don't know what wires are supposed to have power/when. I'm in the middle of packing up the house, as I'm moving to Indiana in a week, and I need to have the HVAC working. The heat and cold works, blend door is good, and the vacuum still switches it to the expected positions-dash, defrost, etc. The biggest problem is that the fan won't come on. I'm almost at the point of cutting the wires to the fan, and running a toggle switch to it, so I can at least turn it on when I need to, even though it would only come on on high all the time-but I'm afraid of burning up the fan motor. If anyone has any ideas, please call me-I truly don't care what time of the day/night it is, as I HAVE to have this fixed before I hit the cold weather. I'm not that worried about being warm, but if I can't defrost my windshield, I'm screwed. I've been messing all day, and I can't figure out what voltages and what grounds are supposed to be where on the back of the panel. I really need help guys. I almost posted this in the 911 section, but considering I'm not actually on the road, I felt I couldn't justify it yet.

I stand corrected...both Dripley and Moparman are correct...not sure why I typed ECM, but the Voltage regulator is in the PCM. My fault, thanks for the catch! Also, when my tach started having issues, it would just randomly drop-and then a few minutes later start working again, so it wasn't always just bouncing around on me.

wish I'd caught this sooner...I would have said to try running an external voltage regulator, seeing as if the factory one goes bad (located in the PCM) it can often cause all the issues you had...

If I remember corectly, on the 24V as well as the 12V, the alternator runs through the ECM, as the voltage regulator is built into the ECM...I know on my truck the voltage regulator started going bad, which started to cause my tach to jump around. I got around this by wiring in a Ford external voltage regulator-I believe MoparMan did this too, and has a write up on it. Not sure if same between the 12 and 24v's, if that could have the same effect, but if the Cam sensor doesn't fix it, I'd look there...

I've lost count now how many manifolds I've drilled through. What I always do is get a magnet, a rag, some grease and the bits. Start with a center punch to keep the bits from walking (Make sure you center the hole correctly on the back half of the manifold, as there is a divider between the front and rear half on the stock horns!) start out with a tiny pilot hole, using a drill bit dipped in standard grease, to collect any shavings. I drilled a bit, stopped, cleaned the grease off the bit with the rag, and regreased the bit. Once I had the pilot hole drilled, I cleaned up the manifold with the rag, and then moved on to the larger bit, doing the same thing, grease the bit, drill a bit, clean it off, and regrease, until I was all the way through. With the bit still in the hole, I wiped down the manifold, to get any big chunks out, and then pulled the bit out. Tapping the hole for the 1/8 NPT thread was the same-dip the tap into the grease, and tap, cleaning it out periodically, till the hole is tapped appropriately. thread in the probe base, and you're good! I've used a flashlight on the first couple I did, to look into the hole, and there were no shavings inside the manifold, when I did it that way. Never had an issue with any turbos since then, so I know the method works fine.Another way to do it is to wait till the engine is cold, start it, and drill through with the engine running, to blow any shavings out of the hole while you're drilling it...I haven't done it this way myself, but there are guys out there who do and they've had the same success this way that I have with the engine off.

Some people....I would have figured Mike of all people would know that Macbooks don't grown on trees!

I have nothing of valuer to input, but just thought it was funny that when I first saw this thread, the title was cut off from the end, and with your name under it, it at a glance seemed to read "truck died when I put it in ocean"...

Anyone ever heard of Dodge using a Getrag G360 in a 94? Had a guy call me up today, asking for help with his clutch install, on his 94, with a build date of 06/94, and he showed me a picture, since he was having trouble taking his shifter off...turns out it was an old Getrag 360. I just thought it was odd, considering that it would have been that far into the production year for a Getrag to make its way into a 94...

I'll have to double check, but at home, I think I've got a 2001 FSM-it would be electronic, and I'd have to upload it to a site somewhere to get it to you, but I'll try and take a look and see if it's the right one, if you're interested...

Right now, the EV2's are an electronic gauge only...which is why you can't find them in a mechanical gauge setup...wish they were mechanical...I shoulda looked closer at that when I bought mine... Oh well, when they go out, I'll get mechanicals...

The third hose off your PS Pump should be the hydroboost hose; which makes me believe you pulled the 12v out of a 97 or newer? I'm not sure off the top of my head where that third one runs, since I don't have my hydroboost anymore...

I don't remember...have you tried running a potentiometer and setting the shift point yourself?

OK, so I've had the truck up and running for a few weeks now and I'm still trying to pin some issues down. Max boost is up to about 60-65 psi, pyro at cruising is running around 7-800 degrees. However, if I'm in 4th or 5th gear, running at a good rpm (tach is out so I don't know what the rpms are, I just know I'm not lugging it) and hammer down, pyro jumps to 1200 by the time I hit 35-40 psi. I've tried adjusting the fuel, preboost screw is almost all the way in, but even if I hammer down on it, all I get is a light cloud. Not enough to black anything out, not black at all, a dark grey. Now I'm not going for smoke, but I'm trying to figure out if I'm fueling enough to spool the turbos up quickly. Problem I'm having is it seems that its taking the turbos too long to get spooled. I'm running a super s300 (I'll have to look at specs later and post) over a s473 hybrid. 100cc over stock DVs, 5 k gov springs, DDP 140 injectors and running 16 degrees of timing. Truck is running kind of doggy compared to what I think it should be. Drive pressure is pretty close to 1:1, max boost is 60-650, while the primary is showing about 15. Any ideas? To me it seems like I'm not getting enough fuel, but the air dog is reading 40psi at the feed line into the pump. - - - Updated - - - Turbos are 57/65/13 over 72/95/26cm

Dunno how many of you know this already, but Stainless Diesel broke 1000 HP on the dyno with a VP44 fuel only. Think they did some adjustments on their second run, and broke 1040 fuel only. I thought that was awesome. Just wanted to share!

Was wondering if anyone has any room and is going to be passing near camp lejeune and Indianapolis any time soon? I found a potential buyer for my ranch hand bumper, but I gotta get it from my place here in Eastern NC to the west side of Indianapolis.

Sorry for the late reply...between work, and my internet giving me issues, I've been able to see the replies, just haven't been able to get on to post till now... My mistake on the post-I did misread yours, thinking that you meant the 3 cyl high idle wasn't worth it outside of TX...not that you were saying in TX, it wouldn't be worth much...guess that's what I get for trying to post responses with a million things going on in the background!

If it makes you feel any better, that's about what I was getting with my 97 12v, dually, auto, 4x4. I think I may have been in the 11's but it wasn't much better. What all are you trying to get done to it?

Did your box say "Best comeback in HISTORY, EVER!" on it? Mine did!

I cut down the post, just to reduce the extra read-hope you don't mind! I'm running a 12ver now too, so I don't have a dog in this fight anymore, however, I would have to disagree with one thing you mentioned-that the 3cyl high idle isn't really worth anything. The only reason I personally would disagree with this is when I did have my 01, I had both a high idle solenoid, by Hbowers off of ITD, and I had the 3 cyl high idle, at different times. In Indiana, in the winter, my habit was to start the truck, let it idle normally for a minute, then engage the high idle (6 cyl) and go back inside and finish getting ready. The truck would sit for anywhere from 5-10 minutes before I came out and started driving it. With the regular high idle switch, I noticed that the engine wouldn't start warming up enough to put out comfortable heat in the cab until I was pretty close to work, about 20-30 minute drive, city. A lot of stoplights, and not a lot of opportunity to get up to speed. I would have heat for about the last 5-10 minutes of the drive. After the solenoid quit working at one point, and I heard about the 3cyl high idle, I got a buddy of mine to flash it on the truck with his SMARTY. Now, for the OP living in Texas, I do agree that it wouldn't work for him very well, as the 3cyl high idle flash has to meet a requirement of the IAT reading at 10 degrees or colder for it to function...and if the block heater has been plugged in for any period of time, the IAT won't read this...so it has to be ran on a cold block. The drive conditions were the same, as well as my startup procedures, except with the 3 cyl high idle, I could just start the truck and go back inside. Truck would start up, and begin idling. after about 5-6 minutes, and I'm assuming this is built into the flash to allow the oil to warm up and be fully circulated throughout the block, the 3 cyl high idle would engage (As long as it was cold enough for the IAT to be reading 10 degrees or colder). This meant that the truck was idling under load for about 5 minutes or so, before I hopped in and started my drive to work. With the 3 cyl high idle flash, I would notice a marked difference in how long it took the truck to start blowing hot air inside the cab-If it was actually high idling for close to 8 minutes or so, I could actually start feeling heat by the time I hit the end of my road, about 1/4 mile. If it had only been engaged for about 5 minutes or so, it would take maybe 5-10 minutes tops before I started feeling heat coming from the vents. I know, not as scientific as some explanations, but there was a marked improvement in heat and temps with the 3 cyl high idle flash working, as opposed to normal startup, or a 6 cyl high idle switch.

It's been a while since I dealt with a VP truck, but IIRC, the P0216 code is not one you want to see...I want to say it's the VP44 timing error...edit: and unfortunately, if I'm correct, changing the LP will NOT fix the code. Only changing the VP44 out.

Any codes on the odometer? when you say pedal to the floor, after 10 seconds it takes off, is it revving up, like a slipping TC or trans, or is it more of a dead pedal, where nothing happens at all, and then it goes? If that's the case, I'd pull the codes, and they should tell you either a bad APPS sensor, bad VP, or bad lift pump. If it's not a dead pedal, and the engine is revving up, but the trans is playing catchup, I'd guess something in the trans is worn out.APPS and VP should be throwing a code on the odometer, with the key trick.

Sorry, delay in the response, I keep forgetting to subscribe to the threads! I was bolted to the return line, going back into the trans...I can't remember off the top of my head if that's before or after the cooling, but it worked for me... I've since sold the truck, so I can't check on it, and since I have a manual now, I don't have any need for another trans temp gauge...

I've got a drawstraw in my 96, and I've ran it down to where I put 34 gallons in it...so depending on the install, you can get it to set right. I did on my 97, however, use the pureflow module modification, where it uses the return line in the basket as the intake line, and plumbs a new return line to the basket. Never had an issue with that one either, and the cuts weren't nearly as critical to get right.

Just a note on the resistor...I've typically bought them at the dealership, for around $80 or so, until I discovered one day screwing around with a bad one that blew, that they tend to separate at the contact joint. I was looking, and it seemed to be a fairly weak solder joint, so I resoldered the resistor on, and it worked fine after that. Just a thought for you guys to check on, before replacing resistors...could save yourself a chunk of change for a minute's worth of work.

EMS Offroad also sells a kit, I believe it may be a bit cheaper than Spyntec or Dynatrac...I could be wrong though, it's been a while since I compared prices. I believe the locking hub conversion, from a ford to a Dodge MAY have only been possible with the early second gens, but I could be wrong...There was a huge thread over on Pirate4x4, where they used a lot of Ford TTB 50 parts to make it work, but I don't remember whether the truck was a later 2nd gen or an early 2nd gen...it makes a big difference, as the 01-02 trucks were not a true D60, they were a mutt of D60 and AAM axles, which is why the 01-02 can upgrade to the 3rd gen brakes, but the 94-99 cannot. I cried a little bit inside when I found that out...I was really hoping to move my rotors to the outside of the hub.