dorkweed

http://www.localnews8.com/news/dogs-victims-of-deadly-game/-/308662/22954394/-/in3j2uz/-/index.html

Nope, the oil vapor will just get spread across the top of your engine………….and all over the engine compartment!!! Good thing about that though; is that it'll keep rust at bay!! There's a reason that it's routed to the bottom of the truck…………………….and an even better reason why Mikes "MOD" moves it further back toward the bottom of the truck…………where the 3rd gen breather is!!!! Just saying of course!!!

So correct me if'n I'm wrong here……………………the voltage is taken from the drivers side battery but the alternator charges from the passenger side battery………………….so if'n the drivers side battery is bad, all the "voltage/amps" go to the passenger side battery irregardless of them being connected in series????

I'm posting this for one of my best Buds.He drives the '03 with now 350,000+ miles on that I often refer to in some of my posts.Anyhow; he called up today with a question……………………..He told me while driving yesterday that the caps on the passenger side battery blew off. He found this out after getting home of course. He pulled out his tester, and that one registered 18+ volts while running and the drivers side registered 14.1 or so. Batteries are less than 2 years old.He picked up a new alternator and installed it and at the same time cleaned all battery terminals and cable ends…………………….he didn't clean the battery ground……………………I asked!!! Same results when testing the alternator.Battery cables is what I'm thinking now…………or battery ground.:2cents:My question to y'all is this………………………why only one battery and not both since they're connected in series???

Summer to winter fuel blend??? I can tell the difference in my truck.

Any "box", or "chip", or "downloader" will give you the "POTENTIAL" for better mileage……………………….90% of folks never see it because they have a "HAPPY" right foot due to the extra power and torque!! Then comes the "bitching and moaning"!!!

10-4!! That's why I worded this post as I did…………………to get an "honest" response!! Thanks!!

Put a "raw egg" under the throttle pedal and try not to break it!!Your mileage will improve.

I do appreciate your "fanatical" obsession with filtration………………….believe me, I really do. But I don't understand you're stance on me pulling the injectors on my truck that are………………to my belief giving me great mileage and performance…………….and having them tested just for the sake of being tested……..……………….to what end???!!!! Your "old" injectors may have gone another 100k………………………or 1k…………………..irregardless of testing or not!! Your "cam upgrade" was a "no-brainer"………………….myself included…………………….but as of now…………………………you cannot say………….or ever can say with without certainty that it didn't cause your current engine meltdown!!! See my point??!!

Twas just "saying" as to what it's advertised at!!!

I slipped the OEM clutch a few times with the Edge Juice on level 4. I've run the Smarty on SW7 hard with the OFE a number of times…………………..I even towed with it on SW7 a few times……………………the Smarty gives you more low end…………….the Juice gives more top end. I can break the tires loose on my truck on SW5 with my trailer in tow in the lower gears on dry pavement if I choose to………………….which I don't do. Done it a few times unintentionally though. OFE is still going strong.

I use the 7 micron Fleetguard filter in the OEM canister, and the Fleetguard 2 micron filter in my GDP secondary FF setup. Almost 200k on the OEM injectors now with either the Edge Juice/w Attitude or now with the Smarty being used.

I also remember reading about a fellow that traced similar problems to some of the wiring to the column breaking due to fatigue from using the "tilt steering wheel" every time he got in and out of the vehicle.

:USflag:It'd seem that there is hope for our country.

Just thinking outside the box here…………………………but years ago, we used to have electrical problems that would be traced back to the ignition switch be bad or just wearing out or folks having too many keys (weight) on the switch. Not sure how these more modern vehicles are wired in that regard, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to toss it out there.Another outside the box suggestion…………………how is your alternator???? These computer controlled trucks ('puters in general) require steady voltage in a narrow range of variability. You already checked your grounds; maybe your alternator is putting out variable voltage in a random manner. Not enough to affect the charging of your batteries (have them checked also) but enough to affect the electronics.Good luck.

Does she make you eat your lima beans??!!

125,000+ miles on mine, and she still grabs like new. Not a "harsh" clutch at all. SouthBend recommends this one for towing…………..at least when I got it, they did.

AH64ID and myself run the Con OFE and love it. It has "stock" clutch pedal pressure and feel; but is rated to hold up to, IIRC, 450HP and 1000ft.lbs. torque.

Could it be 180* reversed??? Meaning that the timing case broke because of the gear tooth hitting it!!! Was the case broken near or around the cam gear???

This "fix" just is about the "DOORS" that control the "fresh vs. recirculation" air……………………and the "temperature" air…………………….and the "mode" air; which is where the air goes. Not all of the doors……………….just the ones you need fixed………………..if'n you know that!!! You don't go near the "freon"!!! Much of the dash did need to come apart to fix the "recirculation" door and the "temperature" doors on my '04.5 though. I didn't need to "fix" the "mode" door at this time………………..although I do have it it case I need it in the future.

I've changed the coolant every other year since I've had Mighty Whitey……………….just never changed the water/coolant pump. Sorry for the confusion.My 200k check list is this…………….1. water pump2. coolant change out……….since I have to drain the coolant to do #13. serpentine belt4. radiator hoses and thermostat5. flush PS system6. valve lash adjustment7. injectors………………….gonna wait until problems start……………hopefully 2 stroke oil has extended the life of them8. tranny, diffs, and trans case oil will be done @225k as I was late in changing it the last time. Will repack front free spin hubs then also.That's about all I can think of now. My Bud with an '03 with 350+k miles replaced his OEM injectors at about 240-250k miles. My luck would be if I changed them out before I needed to, I'd FUBAR something up!!!! If it ain't broke, don't fix until it is!!!!

There may be some other U-tube videos if you google "heater treater". Or you can even go to some other Dodge/Cummins sites to search them………………….sorry Mike:doh:

The doors and the end parts that attach the doors to the motors are made of metal and not plastic. The OEM plastic ends get brittle over time and break. I really don't think buying new OEM parts would be cheaper……………………….junkyard yeah maybe, but you'd need to tear apart a whole dash to get the parts you need………………………and they're probably in the same or worse condition that the ones in your truck are. All in all; the 4 door kit is pricey for what you get, but for me it was worth it, because I now can control the temp and air source in the cab.Have you gone to the website and watched the short videos of installs???

Filled up yesterday here for $3.59/gal of diesel. Regular unleaded was $3.19/gal.