ADawg

I hope this is in the right section. Anyways I was thinking about ditching the tunnel cover and getting a truck box to put my 3.5ton jack and accessories. I was hoping I can get some ideas. Sent from me

So you are saying you have plenty of time for video games? Ummm yea I'd say you are a busy guy! But I would love to live there. But being diabetic on a insulin pump I dont know how that would workout but anything is possible I guess. you will have to fill me in a good camping spots maybe I can convince the wife to go camping there

So what does it take to keep everything going just curious. I live in the city so not much to it.

MoparMan You live in a really beautiful area Nice looking house also! What an awesome place! A place like that is where I wish I could live.

Thanks John actually I am a preferred customer and looking at the cost its not bad. I am going to run a OA on my oil that I am running now I have 7000 on it. It is the Amsoil 15w40 heavy duty marine oil. My brother runs that which his OA came back not very good so he needs to change it which he is mad but he does not understand that his truck is not stock especially running a smarty on it he thought he could go 10,000 before change. They said the oil oxidized causing high bearing wear. thats why I was thinking about going with the 5w to lube better at operating temps.

I agree with you I dont know what I was thinking . Actually that's what I would like to do as far as going back to the OE drain interval I think I can save some cash or at least a little what OE oil brand do you have in mind? The Amsoil 15w40 syn OE? I was also looking into the Premium Blue extreme oil and running that for 7500 and then changing it. I mean I do plug in most of the time but I also forget sometimes too

Ok so I will toss out the 10w30 idea for the reason if I have to tow with it. Dont get me wrong I like amsoil products but I would like to get something that is in stock locally that is also lighter on the wallet. I know there are people in Vegas that sell locally but they are on the other side of town and are usually not open on the weekends and close by the time I get off work. For the cost issue that is why I was looking at the Amsoil 10w30 cause for 4 quarts shipped and tax only 98 bucks but I will take your advice and skip on it. I guess I will have to a conclusion on this topic myself cause there really is no cut and dry answer. I know for sure that I want to try a 5w synthetic oil though just to see if I can gain some MPG's why not huh.

Hey AH64ID good to hear from you! What do you guys think about running amsoil diesel synthetic 10w30? A gallon is 20 bucks? I am either going to try it out and do a OA at 5000 or go with the PMB extreme 5w40. Just because from what I am gathering the synthetics cling to the internal better than dino oil and have less detergents to wear out. I am probably making a big deal of this but this whole subject is very interesting. Plus I would like to run a all year round oil. I was thinking 10w30 would be a happy medium. One other thing is I plan on going off Schedule B or the one if you run your cummins hard just to make me feel better.

WHY WHY! do you throw out all these good points I had a decision now I have to ponder again. Where is DORKWEED? Ok so I will continue to run the 15w with the info you gave me maybe I will switch back to regular dino oil. Also the gentleman that did the analysis in the TDR article said between the two Premium Blue oils he wouldnt spend the extra cash on the synthetic because chemically they are basically the same. Plus its cheaper:thumbup2:

I didnt realize Idaho got that hot! WOW! I know this subject has been brought up a million times but I am debating on switching from amsoil 15w40 heavy duty marine synthetic oil to synthetic 5w40 Valvoline premium blue, but then I read the TDR article and the person who did analysis says for the price difference you should run 15w40 premium blue cause there composition are basically the same as far as TBN, Calcium, Phosphor, and Zinc levels. I know just pick one and run with it right and change at recommended interval.

The reason I run synthetics in my truck is quote me if I am wrong is because of heat dispersion. Living in Vegas summer temps like this weekend are to be 117 out. I currently run 15w40 and will be switching to 5w40 for that reason also. Another point is people spend money on bypass kits and top brand oil to extend oil change intervals. This was the hope for my brother which obviously is not going to work on that brand of oil. After reading an article in TDR I am rethinking my choices on oil such as what I am running now considering where it ranked on this list.

Have you ever gotten a oil analysis on your oil? The reason I ask is I am looking to get a little cheaper synthetic oil and maybe change at 7500. I to have a frantz setup. I mean if I could go longer between changes that would be awesome. I am getting ready to read some TDR reports on oil.My brother just received his analysis back and it was not good. He runs amsoil heavy duty marine synthetic oil with a TBN of 12 and an Amsoil bypass setup. He put 10,000 on the oil and it he has high levels of metal possibly from bearings and the heat from the bearings caused the oil to oxidize(sp) the TBN dropped to 3.5. In my mind why pay those prices for that oil when you can get a little cheaper oil and change it at normal intervals. Just a thought.

Nice job:thumbup2: this will help me when I adjust mine

my 05 48re 4 speed thats what the ATSG manual says unless its a misprint! Kidding but it is a 4 speed

Heat is another cause for break down of rotors. I tried to have my wife's rotor's turned on the ole minivan and they were below spec and they had never been turned. So I got new rotors haha

I guess its how you drive if you tow etc. I have wagners and I do not like them at all they squeal bad and they are suppose to be the "quite" ones the more expensive ones. I am going to try out the powerstop heavy duty ones.

I used Teflon tape on the fittings they instructed to. But maybe I did over torque them I hope not I will find out later when I get home if it still is oozing I will remove the whole setup and come up with another game plan I guess or use thread sealant like BD's filter setup uses. I dont know. I honestly would like to go with push lock type of setup like the 2 micron fuel setup but I am having trouble gathering intelligence on what fittings I may need. I JUST WANT TO SAY THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP! - - - Updated - - - Ok I have a dumb question I have a filter base with 3/4 inch inlet/outlet ports so will this fitting work 1/2 jic x 3/4 NPTF http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com or do I need to go next size down to fit? I know Thanks

Ok So I purchased a dieselsite auxiliary transmission filter setup and after hooking it all up and Teflon taping all the proper fittings I had some leaks I tightened them up so I think I have those sealed now. But my biggest problem are the metal lines going into the filter housing they keep leaking I have taken them off and tightened them back down at least three times the fourth time I think I got it. I will have to crawl under there today once I get home to check. Also in the process of torquing these fittings down I ripped out a bolt on the filter base so I will have to get a new one. Is there something wrong with what I am doing? The ends on the metal lines are flared so I shouldn't have to tighten them down that much to seal them up right? Also when they did leak it was coming around the tube and not the threaded part.:confused013: I am also wondering if anyone knew the possible fittings to convert the metal lines to the push lock fittings and high pressure hose. Any thoughts would be awesome I know its a lot but I hope to find out if I am doing something wrong hear I have been dealing with it all weekend.

So would you just go with a fuel boss or DTT fuel pump then or wait until its about to crap out? The only reason I am asking these questions is I want to stay ahead of the curve I have 95,000 miles on my ride and I do not want any big expensive problems down the road. allot of good comments or responses

Hey Thanks for the advice. So instead of a lift pump like a fuel boss just upgrade the CP3 that's what you are saying right? My end result with my truck is to use it to haul and a daily driver I am not going to be racing or sled pulling. I cannot afford to pay and play

But what if you do not have a VP44 my truck is an 05?

I notice some people when they install after market fuel pumps they install a fuel sump I know there are pros/cons to everything. But would that be a good idea to install a fuel sump or to plumb it the way the company suggests to? Hope what I am asking makes sense. Ok one more question if you had the funds would just buy one to upgrade or would you wait until the stock pump went out?

Can you just pull the fuel from the stock canister? That way you have a filter before the pump. Just a thought.

How come some of you went with a fuel boss verses the Assassin pump? The thing I like about the fuel boss is that Hobb switch and using your stock system as back up.