hex0rz

Perhaps the bigger question is, will mother approve? OH! Also, don't get too nerdy, just yet! Otherwise, I wish the best for you, Mike! I expect an invitation to your wedding if that is the route you go. Wait, did I say that too soon?

Apparently its from a broken wheel?

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1550606851637499&id=105924042772461 We've had numerous derailments since things have thawed out. Multiple mudslides in the region and flooding everywhere. Just another day, lol... I don't believe this derailment was caused by soft ground.

IT IS FINISHED! i started the project yesterday, and quit at sundown as it got too cold to continue. I was able to get the bed apart, the fascia pulled off and the floor board ripped out. Didn't have to take out the slide or anything. Propped up the slide with some 1x to keep it from dropping once i pulled the floor board. The board about fell apart getting it out! Had to get everything cleaned up and prepped for the new board. Today i got the board reinstalled, everything glued and sealed. Had to use new fasteners for allot of areas. I caulked the crap out of every joint. It was absurd as to how little of any sealant was used for anything! Went through a tube of sika and 2 tubes of silicone caulk. I gotta say, i spent less than $100 to do this repair and maybe 12 hours work. I just saved a boat load! I Was told it'd be several thousand to do the repair. Oh! I also used a can of flex seal on all the slides at the bottom areas! That stuff works great!

It sounds like, through the research I've done about this, that this condition develops from the edge seal at the bottom corners of the slide. If there is not a proper seal, it'll develop a leak. I've read about a couple people now, installing drip edges over these parts to deter water away from this joint and also water from going under the slide. Some people are also faced with that water rolling under the slide and then being sucked up by capillary action through an unsealed penetration like a screw or staple. I gotta say, through this research, the quality of trailers really suck just that bad! I don't care if it's a house on wheels or not. It's just poor craftsmanship no matter how you look at it. In construction, specifically for a window system install, because that's all i did in construction, you caulked EVERYTHING. you would be amazed at how water can get into a building, especially a high rise. Water can travel UP in certain situations.

The inside was wet, the carpet was getting a black color to it from mold. I'll have to shampoo it. There is a degree of water damage to the sides, but i don't think it's excessive. After i sell this thing, I'm not getting another rv of any sort. Ill sleep in a tent. Allot easier to swallow buying a new tent even every year i camp compared to the expense of an rv. Biggest challenge i currently face is what thickness board i need. Anyone know? I assume it's 3/4 osb..

Luck has it, I'm not covered on my warranty... go figure. Asked a shop about ballpark pricing. They said several thousands too fix it... Looks like i have to ride this one myself.

And if it doesn't, you would think the manufacturer should be held responsible. 4 years post build, that is a terrible duration. You and i both know that if this happened in construction someone would be getting a call back on their dime. This is just poor craftsmanship. There was no butyl rubber or anything of the likes. Just straight up put together and a small heel bead of caulking. How old is your trailer? Was it only 4 years old or younger? I Can understand this happening maybe 10 years old or more, but less than 4, THAT'S a joke! If i have to do this repair myself, I'm going to look into doing treated plywood for the replacement or maybe mdo/hdo (same kind of stuff concrete form workers use)

My 5ther is just now 4 years old from time of purchase. Here is what i get to deal with... Don't buy a keystone rv! Notice the shoddy caulk seam. That is not going to seal anything. Regardless, I'm putting money on it I'm once again going to end up being that guy that slips right through the crack and won't have any coverage despite my extended warranty. I was going through the trailer prepping it so i could take it to a place to sell it on consignment. Noticed the slide was not the same as before. Well lo and behold, there was more to this sponge than met the eye. Good news is, if someone wants more than I'm willing to pay, there seems to be many people who have had this problem and doesn't seem entirely difficult to fix. Did i mention, don't but keystone?

I've got a blower unit on my wood stove. The control box for fan speed has lost its variability. I can only have it on high speed otherwise it barely blows at any other speed. I've determined that its the rheostat. I've called a couple dealers and the genuine oem replacement offered by the manufacturer is over 150 dollars. Which is totally ridiculous. I dunno where i can source an exact replacement of the unit as i figured it has to just be some Chinese build unit. Is it possible to fix the existing one? Antoine know a thing or two about these?

Eh, alright, so it settles it! Burn the log, at least the ground contact portion, slather on the oil and plant it into the ground with gravel. I've got about 5 gallons of WMO right now. I could easily scrape up more if needed, but still trying to understand the idea behind cutting it with diesel...

So tell me what you think: http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/treated-fence-posts-zmaz74sozraw http://charredwood.com I'll char the whole post and brush on oil. They say they use cedar and Doug fir for their substrate. Claiming they see 80 to 100 years of durability. I figure a good coating of oil in top of that, i should have something to shake a stick at. I don't know why some people cut the oil with diesel, though. Is it a penetrant? Where i live, our soil is pretty dry. Although i hit water at about 75 feet down for my well. We have pretty rocky soil. The pine thrives in it, and the other species not so much. Fir will take a good amount of time before it starts taking off. You end up getting a fat base tree until it hits water then it start growing as it should.

I know there are a few of you on here that live the country or construction life. I'm having a hard time deciding on what to do. I'm adamant about a garden this year. But whats stopping me is having adequate fencing to keep the deer out. I don't exactly want to spend much money on fencing to make this happen as my dollars are going out of the pocket at every angle. So I'm inquiring to great minds, to see if there is truly a solution to this. I have MANY, many lodgepole pine logs that I have on the property. They are the PERFECT size for posts, but I cannot decide on what to do to preserve them. I do realize that they can be a poor choice in wood. They are used, though. I've seemed to have read it all about using preservatives and where to apply, etc. But truly, what is actually standing the test of time? I've heard about charring the ends, I have heard about charring the ends and applying used motor oil/diesel mix. I have heard about using just a sleeve at the ground level, wrapping the buried end with tar paper, to brushing tar on. I have read about using copper napthenate, with or without diesel or kerosene. Linseed oil, tung oil, the list goes on! But what I don't read about is from those who have actually done something like this and have the test of time behind them to prove it. While I don't need that for total validity, it would be nice to know if its something you have to do as a procedure from say, industry standards, etc. Currently, I'm leaning the copper napthenate route. Its about $150 for a 5-gallon pail at home depot. Does not need diluted, either. I speculate that I would need around 18 posts. The 4x4x12 posts from home depot are $13.67 a post. I guess it comes down to whats my time worth, and whether or not I can get away with only needing to coat the lower 5 feet of the poles instead of needing the whole post treated. Does anyone know if a pine post untreated above ground would last long? I really 'am a person that likes to do something right the first time. But the addage has exceptions, to me. If I can DIY it and still get the same result for less, I usually do it. Whats everyone's opinion that has experience on this issue?

I found a source for a deflector/visor. I might make my own or buy. http://www.justoffroad.org I'll be taking care of the fin noise next..

I don't think this picture does it justice. It's really bright! My headlights don't even compare. I could turn my headlights off and not even know! I have noticed a couple immediate drawbacks, though. With the light mounted up, it puts a good amount of light on the hood even. So it was a bit difficult to adapt to. Makes seeing things out further challenging. Although, i saw ALLOT. Wind noise is terrible. If i go faster than 30, it's deafening. Going to have to put some door stripping on the fins. Gotta figure out what to do about the light hitting the hood though...

I got an auxbeam. 52 inch curved 5d lens style. Bought a set of apoc brackets to mount it. The harness that came with it leaves to be desired for some. Might buy a different one or just swap the switch. The gauge size is a little small. Gets warm but it has an in line fuse at least.

I just got done installing my light bar. WOW! I'm excited to see what it can do for me going down the country road. I'll get some pics when i can.

My light bar will be in this week. Might be able to get it in this weekend. It won't solve through problem of on road use, but for now it should work on back roads and off road use. I'll have to get permission before buying the HID kit...

Wait, what's wrong with that beam? The cutoff? I would use the led bulbs in the projector housing that's built to accept the h7 bulbs...

Why retrofit? http://www.specdtuning.com/94013.html

I'm bound and determined to go LED. I can get the LED bulbs but many people highly recommended projector headlight housings. This is where I'm falling short. I don't know much about them and whether or not I can get a housing that will allow me to accommodate for them. My truck currently uses a 9004 bulb so that would be the plug I would want to shoot for. I guess it really would not matter? Looks like the harness for the bulbs don't have much of any kind of specific plug for them. I think the bigger issue is the bulb style mounting in the housing. Another thing that gets me is that it appears the projector housings use a separate bulb for low and high. I can get dual projector housings as that would be the whole reason in getting a projector housing in the first place! Why would I want to handicap myself with an old style bulb on low beam and then have a projector lens on high? I want bright light ALL the time! Obviously, I just don't want it in oncoming traffics faces. Does anyone have experience in this area? I'm not interested in retrofits or DIY, per se.. I just want the bulbs, the housing, wire the dang things up and have some real headlights for a change! The headlights I have now practically need buffed every year and even spending top dollar on the best bulbs I can get off the shelf just don't cut it for me anymore. Living on this rural county road has helped me net some pretty close calls in just the couple years I have lived out here. Getting that light down the road will certainly help me see them sooner if they are out there! BTW, I also placed an order for a 52" LED light bar and 'am going to use that in my country road driving arsenal! Heck, I've even been blinded out by the local sheriffs using their light bars. Time to smarten up!

Well, have no idea what happened, but it works just fine now. Did not even get a chance to grease it up. Next day it was reading just fine... Heres to hoping it was just a fluke. I theorize it may have gotten water or snow up in the sensor area and compromised something and threw the reading off. Otherwise, if it is not a fluke I would not have the first clue as to what could cause something like this.

Going to work today, i was cruising at 45mph on county road. Noticed my gauge said i was running hot at 190f. R brake wasnt on and didn't notice anything unusual. So i tried driving differently and it only slightly affected it. So i thought maybe it was the gauge. Got onto highway road and got into lock up at 60 and it went down 30f. But soon after came right back almost. The slower i went the hotter it got. So when i got to work i checked the fluid and it was good level not burnt and still red. After work, i started the truck after sitting 10 plus hours and the gauge said the trans was at 130f. No way that's possible! I dunno why it suddenly is acting up. Anyone ever experience this? Its like it has an offset going on or something. Is it the probe, gauge? I don't have an amplifier box on it. Just the sensor wired to the gauge...

I second on voting for a drain tile system!

If i could, it'd be the VW passat with the blue motion engine! 80mpg i think it equated to?