Doubletrouble

I have mine in front of the battery box on the driver's side. It's cool out now so heat at first shouldn't be an issue. Maybe after she warms up good. I'll report back after tonight.

When I first start the truck I tend to wait until the batteries recover (looking at the volt meter) before I turn on any extra electrical load. I hoping maybe the breaker I had was faulty to a point. I'll see if this new one is up to the task. It's 49° here now and a low of 33° tonight so the grids will come on and I'll monitor it closely. Prior to the ground mod I never had the oem 140 breaker blow at all.

I finally received my breaker. No idea what took so long. I ordered the one hdpwipmonkey linked to. Installed today. We will see what happens.

Not to hi-jck but how does the factory high idle work. It's supposed to get down in the 30's tonight so I'd like to pay attention to see if mine is enabled.

I'm curious about this factory ecm high idle as well. I don't think mine does this either.

******UPDATE****** So, it's been a little while but I finally got the time to stop by my buddy's shop and have him plug in his snap-on scanner to see what's going on. It showed 2 codes in the abs system 1. Revs per mile to high 2. Tone wheel tooth count off Wording may be slightly off but that's what they said in a nut shell. Problem was the tire size was entered wrong. Once that was corrected the light was out. After driving the truck that afternoon I noticed the speedo was off by 6mph at 60mph (speedo showed 66mph at 60). I called him and we deduced that the gear ratio is also entered incorrectly. He noticed it showed a 3.92 gear. He didn't think much of it since his ram 1500 is the same ratio. I told him it's a 3.55 gear, he confirmed it with the vin number. So I'll be going back soon to get that setting changed and the problem should be solved. Just wanted to update for anyone having this issue now or in the future.

@Mopar1973Man, that was an excellent explanation of timing and it's effects on a diesel engine. Can you possibly put that in the articles section or something so we could access it easily? I will definitely be re-reading it and taking notes! It really cleared up alot for me. I come from mainly gassers and my mindset was much different in thoughts of timing. Much appreciated!

What is the cooling system capacity? I think I saw somewhere 6 gallons? I didn't flush the while system and change that stat at the time of heater core install because I was laid off at the time, money was tight. I'll get a new T-stat and the required amount of coolant and do a flush here very soon.

That ain't good. I'll have to try changing the T-stat and flushing things out good first before replace a brand new heater core.

@Mopar1973Man, judging by the description is a thermostat in order? Would flushing at this point help the heater output? The heater core is new so should be flowing just fine.

Always something isn't it. Lol

I agree the cooling systems are very good in these trucks. There is alot of heat from the Cummins to keep under control. I just figured I would get better heat from the heater with all the heat generated by the engine. It hasn't been cold enough ( at least I didn't think so) to have to put cardboard in somewhere yet.

I'll post this here but I believe this could all lead to the thermostat. Anyway, not long ago I replaced the heater core and evap. Removed hvac, cleaned, inspected the foam seals and reinstalled. Now that it's getting cooler outside I'm noticing that it's not putting out the expected heat. I read the heater output write up in the articles section and checked for the movement of the blend door motor, checked to see if the heater hoses were hot indicating flow of coolant, blower motor is functioning as it should. All good. I have noticed though that when I come to a stop light or if I'm sitting still much more than about 30-45 seconds the engine begins to cool down per that gauge. Like from just above 190° to below 190° (again, on the factory gauge). Temp output at the floor vent is good while fan is on low but cools down considerably when moved to 3 or on high. I fear that when I really does get cold around here I will not have enough heat output to warm the cab. When the outside temp was in the 60's the heat output seemed to be in spec with the article. I'm thinking thermostat, any other things I should check out? The first two pics are going down the road, engine at temp, outside temp was about 45° I think. Next pic is sitting at a red light, notice the drop in engine temp. I've been google searching this issue, I've read that it might be possible to have air trapped in the heater core. Anyone heard of this? Is there a certain way to bleed it out?

When I did my heater core not long ago it was to bad to remove the HVAC unit from the truck. I also replaced the a/c evaporator core as well so I had to remove it. Took about an extra hour to remove it from where you were.

I have been looking at the glowshift gauges. I know the isspro units are highly regarded here but they are a tad expensive. I'll do like wipmonkey and build up to better later.

I don't know if I haven't had enough coffee yet or what but that made my brain hurt. This quadzilla, timing, wire tap stuff confuses me. Hence why I am leary of getting a tuner.

I also have a pressure gauge like that. Part of my problem is I have factory steel 7 hole wheels but the simulators are 4 hole so thins don't line up.

I may have to look into this more. When I first bought the truck tire were new (less than 500 miles on them) and inflated to 80psi. What a harsh ride! I checked the door sticker once I got her home and deflated to the prescribed 65psi/front and 50psi rear. Ride was much better. I've left it there ever since. After reading this I'm thinking my wet traction would improve by applying this formula. On wet rainy days the rears seem to spin pretty easy. I just attributed this to the torque of the Cummins. Only draw back is it's difficult to check the rear pressure without removing the wheels.

I've had many gassers, they're fun but, there is just something about that Cummins rattling away under the hood. I catch myself looking at other trucks pulling big trailers and such and think to myself " I could pull that now if needed ". Lol We have a 3 axle equipment trailer here on the farm that I couldn't pull with my previous trucks. Had to use my uncle's duramax. Trailer is 4000lbs empty, couldn't do it with my half ton. Not with a load on it at least

Welcome! There are alot of great people here and a wealth of knowledge and experience. I am new to the dodge/Cummins combo myself. I've had or driven many Cummins powered semi trucks which is what lead me to the dodge with the Cummins engine. So far, I love the truck. I'll never go back to a gasser.

I try to use 1/4 as an empty mark. Won't let it below that in warm weather. Cold weather I'll keep it above even that. Probably between half and quarter. I had the fuel.light come on once, made me nervous. Lol Sure don't want to run out on a diesel.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

Ours here in N.W. Ohio has turned green recently. Winter blend I assume. I still have a tank full of red outside for farm equipment. Going to have to treat that soon to avoid gelling and moisture in it.

I'll ha e to check for voltage when in reverse tomorrow. I was just curious at this point. Thanks all.