beren

It's a bad idea, and it will fail before a properly crimped connection. Everyone from NASA to random people on the internet say don't do it. https://www.google.com/search?q=solder+vs+crimp+battery+cables If you use a hydraulic crimper and do a correct crimp, then try to solder it, the copper will be so tight it the solder can't get in. Add the marine/glued heat shrink and nothing can get in. A couple good pictures and explanation of metal fatigue and such is here: https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/ https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2 books/links/sections/201 General Requirements.html <-- good picture explaining things and for the actual specs https://nepp.nasa.gov/files/27631/NSTD87394A.pdf https://hackaday.com/2016/11/03/specifications-you-should-read-the-nasa-workmanship-standards/ That article is how I discovered all this. The stories in the comments are a fun read too :-)

Just wanted to chime in and remind everyone to not solder these connections. There's multiple reasons. It stiffens the cable at the joint because the solder wicks up the wire. The vibrations can break the joint between metals which causes resistance and higher heat/voltage drop. The high temps of a bad connection can evaporate the lead solder and cause an even worse connection. A cheap 12-20T crimper can be gotten fairly cheap from ebay and as long as you don't blow the seals it'll last and you can lend it to others ;-) I bought the heavy duty tinned brass lugs from fastenel or zoro and used the glue-lined heat shrink to seal it up. My stock cables were corroded pretty far up, I cut back the insulation, cleaned them with vinegar and baking soda and then used the heat shrink as new insulation. It's been going well the last few years but I should check the voltage drop under load to see how it's doing. Switching to AGM batteries are also a great idea since they don't vent gas at the terminals and your corrosion vanishes. I bought Noco lead-free zinc military style terminals to go from the battery studs to eye terminals on the cables. So much better!

Yeah bright, but a bit less bright then new.

Hmm morimoto says they should last 2k hours, this says 3k hours: https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/what-are-hid-headlights

I haven't seen rear bumper brackets, I think it just need some flat bar bent at a 90 and holes drilled, but have so much to do before i get to that…

Yeah my neighbor just moved but does great work and works at a collision center. I need the bottoms of the 2 front doors, the bottoms of the rear doors have some ****** holes, the rockers are almost gone, as is the bottom of the tailgate. The fenders above the front wheels are really bad and above the rear wheels are bubbling bad. I paid $8k and prolly put at least 10k into it in the last 9 years. Bunch of upgrades and some replacements/repairs. Not looking forward to $2-3k in body work, and my Injection pump is failing after less than 40k miles. SHe'll hit 300k miles before the end of next month though. I got a 4th gen bumper from a local place that does utility body conversions and big truck work pretty cheap, need to get someone to make some brackets now that my original has a 3" hole in it…

The HIDs draw as much as a normal bulb, 35W each. They just convert most of the power into light, where normal halogen converts a lot of the energy to heat as well. I silvered the tops of my high beam bulbs with high temp paint and careful masking tape. I hated the brown looking at me :-)

Some good stuff here. BTW you can do a cheap HID conversion as well. I used the smaller 2.5" H1 HID set so I didn't have to open up the bulb area, and some good & cheap FastBright ballasts. There are even better projectors now too you can get. HIDplanet is an amazing resource and where the morimoto guys hang out as well. Remember they don't manufacture much, they import and made deals with boneyards to get the OEM parts. They sure look slick though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/322188522247 Are an upgrade of what I have and except for the cutoff these are basically the Morimoto's. These are the D2S easy retrofits they use, or damn close: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322356161193 You can get them on Aliexpress too. The Sinolyn brand is highly rated on HIDplanet. Throw in some bulbs, and $25 ballasts and it's an amazing improvement. I also did the relay swap and got cheap quad housings so I have normal high beams. I kinda regret not going larger on the projectors, but my old lights were so bad it was like I had a few candles in the front. People are big on doing it right in HIDPlanet, and last I looked there were still no LED bulbs that could replicate the output of the halogen, and if you look close there's likely a ton of scatter and glare with them One thing to remember about HID also, is the bulbs have a lifespan of 2k hours on average. They don't normally go out, they just start to dim so it may be hard to notice at first. Ill have to snap a picture of my headlights, they look pretty good for cheap :-) I think other than the housings it was $100 all in. If I do it over with the larger D2S, it'll prolly be $200-300 or so because of the OEM bulbs. Still not bad.

Man I wish my trucked as good as your before pictures. I don’t even no where to start now it’s so bad.

Good timing I just ordered a full AC replacement from RA. Tired of the compressor leak that has me fill every spring and add a can every month. I got mostly Four Seasons parts.

Any news on this?

Too bad you get far hotter air to the engine which kills performance

Hey good luck! Hope to see you back here soon.

Know anyone with a microscope? Maybe a kid? You can look at it and possibly tell what it is.

Interesting… Looks like there's a few even higher flow pumps from walbro now: https://aftermarket.tiautomotive.com/projects/gss-350-lph-fuel-pump-family/ and a 3x more expensive screw pump as well. Wonder if these 350lph pumps could be adapted to our use? It doesn't look like they have threaded in/outlets not sure if that's an issue.

I'm likely going to do the same thing as @kzimmer as it should be 1/2 the cost of a premade solution for almost as good flow (and more than I'll likely ever need even with 70% of the fuel returning.

Sadly, I think the main problem is the VP44 is a bad design with a POS reliability and we're stuck grasping at straws to do anything possible to keep it from failing, convincing ourselves we're affecting it's lifespan. Dodge/Cummins did do some less than optimal things like sucking fuel not pushing it, block heat killing lift pumps, small fittings to try to reduce water hammer effect destroying block lift pumps etc. I wonder if the VP had some passive cooling fins if it would help at all :-)

Maybe this was the thread I read before… anyway I'll def. look into replacing my filter→VP lines. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/6224-what-size-big-line-kit-do-i-need/

I finally found a flow chart for the 392… looks like 20psi is off the charts at running voltage :-) interesting idea @kzimmer was it hard to put together? Did you use the big line kit or build your own?

Someone here mentioned using a Detroit diesel mech pump as well. Wonder if anyone has done that? http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186558 I've also seen posts where people use a Holly Blue to push to the stock pump and set it at 18-20psi but I don't know what GPH it would have at those pressures...

Well… I guess the credit card company is gonna love me this month. Looking at @dieselautopower's site, I see they have an airdog 100, FASS 95, & DTT Assassin. which should work well for me. I just for a fluidamper from them last month, not sure the DDT works with it and the stock fan (I've read different things). Anything better than another? Is it possible to keep the stock filter housing for the heater without too much loss/expense? Hopefully they can find a good discount hiding under an old box for me ;-)

Yeah the 70% mark for a 60gph pump is 18gph. I'm like you, I try to get the best fuel econ I can, which seems to be 20-21mpg on the highway and 17.5 average combined (I have larger tires) and with my truck I rarely drive faster than 65mph. The truck did the no-accel on the way to get my kids from daycare. I did the key check and it was 1693 & 216 codes :-/

Didn’t I read someone on this for him recently calculated that the engine only needs a maximum of like 28 gallons per minute? And everything else gets recycled back to the tank? My main issue with spending $600 I don’t have on another fuel pump is that it’s not peace of mind it’s clinging to hope because the pump can still fail at any point in time. There’s no guarantee that it will extend the life of the injection pump at all. Like I said my and lasted for 233,000 miles with no fuel additives or special pumps. Unfortunately this one did not. Another thing that exists and cooling systems is that the liquid can actually float too fast to effectively absorb much heat and cool an item. I doubt any of the aftermarket pump manufactures researched this because they want to sell you a pump above all else just like K&N wants to sell you an air filter. I know I’m playing devils advocate I just can’t afford to waste money on something that won’t make a difference.

Yeah that’s what killed the first pump at 233k miles. I agree a steady supply of fuel is needed for the pump but there’s too many pumps that last a long time without an air dog or FASS to say that they are the only two that can supply the engine with enough fuel. 3 micron filters can’t be used with stock filters from what I read, too much restriction. Spending $600-800 or more to protect a $900 part doesn’t make sense unless you can guarantee that $900 part will last twice as long, or longer. Are there any less expensive alternatives that you guys would recommend? The pressure relief valve seems to function pretty much the same as the wastegate on the turbo. It’s so you don’t blow the thing up. Sure can provide a little bit more cooling but sodas the fuel that goes into the engine

Yeah I'll see if it changes, I'm not currently driving more than 50mi from home, but I guess I'll change it asap if I get some side work hauling trailers. Sucks I just spent $1k on tires, harmonic balancer, and a few odds& ends and still need to do an oil change. @dieselautopower is gonna be on my speed dial :-) I don't have $600 to spend on a fuel pump, I want to do the frame relocate so what would be a good alternative to stock? I'm not pushing serious power I just have slightly larger injectors.