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How much was that? Did you get it balanced? I did my rear drive shaft and it tore apart the center support bearing in 20k miles because I didn't get it balanced. Around here I couldn't do it for less than buying a new one from proshaftllc.com. He mailed me a custom made one with sealed spicer bearings cheaper than I could fix mine and get it balanced. Quality work. ??

Purple power is pretty awesome, it cleans well and it's pretty cheap, it's basically a lye (oven) type cleaner but a little less harsh.

I just did an HID retrofit not too long ago, I love it. Depending on how much you want to spend, get the ACME super H1s or the morimoto 7.0s and they are great. I got great cheap ballasts from aliexpress, F3 Fast Bright for $15 each. It's like 0.2s to ignite. hidplanet.com is the best place to learn and see what people do.

Shouldn't be too hard, just a little more wire. That's what I'm planning on doing for my HID retrofit. You can also put a diode between the 2 relays so that the high beams will also power on the low beams for quad bulb high beams. One consideration with a single fuse is all lights will be tied to a fuse. I'm going to run a fuse for each relay so that only one set of lights will be out if a fuse blows. Any rectifier diode will work, like a 3A from radio shack. If it's reversed it'll light the highs with the low, instead of the lows with the high ;-) Also, if anyone is interested in doing a HID retro on the cheap, I can help. I think I have spent a total of $85 and am about to put it together. The best cheap chinese components I could find.

Because attachments are screwed up here's the pictures again. This really needs to get fixed site-wide :-/ Dodge Ram Sport Headlight Conversion.pdf

How did you hook up the high beams? The morimoto harness doesn't have a separate output for the 9004 highs that I can see.

275-85r17, I think what helps is miles of downhill where I coast in gear… That trip is the only times I can get that high, otherwise it's in the 17-18 range.

I did this a while ago to the fronts, just a few weeks ago for the rears. The 3rd gen calipers are the same part numbers, iirc, what you do is get new caliper brackets, rotors, and pads (with 17" wheels) and bolt them up. Easy as that. Traffic near Philadelphia means my truck eats brakes, and if you leave 1/2 car length in front of you people will force their way in. I have an HO with 4.10 4x4 so… yeah I never see great MPGs. My best trips are up to then NY mountains where doing 75 on the highway and going up and down steep hills for miles would make you think your mileage would lower. I got 19.9MPG each trip /shrug

Just 1 question, the power for the lights comes from the trailer harness or direct+fused from the battery, with the relay to control it? Otherwise, great idea about the axle to protect it, I was thinking along these lines but with clamping to the receiver ends...

Yeah, I see the reasoning, and I'd love to support mopar1973man by buying a kit from the store, but it's out of budget for me so I went looking for ideas. The other thing is information is like pandora's box, once out there it's very hard to contain again.

It's getting cold again, so I went to look up mopar1973man's articles on how to fool the truck into high idle, but they all seem to be missing. All I can find is a paste of information from here: http://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-24v-performance/80019-manual-3-cyl-high-idle.html I understand there's a kit being sold now, but if that's the reason it's vanished that's pretty disappointing. The cummins crowd seems to love DIY when you can, and to have a good reference removed is a real loss.

Wish I had this thread a few years ago when I had to replace my VP. I paid the Blue Chip premium cause I thought his would last longest, and if it died again it was cheaper to repair...

Drilled and slotted rotors do nothing good for breaking, they only look cool. There's been a ton of measurements made and they just perform worse. High quality pads are the most important thing you can get. All cast iron blanks are about the same quality, a lot of racers with cars prefer the Centric brand rotors from rockauto.com, the cheapest they sell. If you don't believe me, think about how brakes work: pads + friction on the rotors slows you down. There's 0 friction over holes and slots. Add all that missing iron and you'll see that it's far better to get truck rated aftermarket pads then bling-y rotors. Here's a link that came up quick with google: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437513 If you feel you must have drilled rotors, make sure you get high quality ones that were cast and designed that way, as the redrilled blanks can crack or explode from stress, and unequal weight. I admit I love the look of the slotted rotors, but I like stopping better :-) As an aside, the premium coated rotors are a little better, in that they shouldn't rust in places where the pads don't hit. I just use high-temp silver paint and pay 1/2 the cost of the rotors, it's almost as good ;-) --- Update to the previous post... Here's a link to rockauto.com for the 2003 rotor prices: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1413470,parttype,1896 retailmenot.com has 5% codes for them all the time also.

I have an 01.5 but it came with power/heated mirrors. I upgraded to the CoolVue tow mirrors DG49ER-PLK from http://www.discountautomirrors.com $192.51 for the pair, includes brackets, and they have a 2yr warranty.

Thanks so much for the graphics. I don't have any Microsoft products so I had to take the files to work to open them, they won't show in OpenOffice. There's a great *free* pdf creation tool called CutePDF, just pick it as your printer and it spits out a nice pdf, or use OpenOffice or LibreOffice, they even have a nice free drawing app. Anyway, here is a universal version of your diagrams.[ATTACH]3624[/ATTACH] Dodge Ram Sport Headlight Conversion.pdf