beren

One thing I'm noticing is the speed sometimes jumps around. Like it'll jump 3 to 10 miles an hour high and then come back down. This is with smooth study acceleration also

No, I had unplugged it to check the connections but I can't recreate it getting the right speed. Real bummer now that there's a mpg estimator.

It used to work though. If iQuad uses the rpm/trans/diff/tire size settings to calculate the speed it'll always be correct if you set it up correct. If you use the ABS to get the speed it will be correct if the ABS is correct. Right now iQuad is never correct. If i'm using defaults or I set everything to match my truck, it's always 10-15mph higher. Usually ~13mph. Maybe a setting to pick how you want speed displayed, calculated vs abs. Regardless, if you set your vehicle info it should work. It might have been 0 when it worked, now that you mention it…

Strange. I tried the same thing today to fix the speedometer but it didn't work. The app still shows me going about 13 miles an hour fast

In the squad app? It's likely the default right not but I've changed it and it made no difference. It was set to my tire size before I updated to 2.7 i think 106.5"

only if i restart my truck while driving

Thats how I have the FP sensor setup Diesel, I just double checked. For the vehicle speed, It's something with the newer update, like I said if I restart the truck while driving it suddenly shows the correct speed in the app. My dash is correct, I took it to the dealer to get calibrated when I changed my tire size to 285/75/17.

Mother F…. I have whatever came with the sensor from quadzilla. I had hoped that would protect it.

Although hmm maybe it opened itself up a little more…

Since I updated to 2.7 my engine speed has been off. It changes, but it's about 15mph higher than actual. It's not the app as I tried downgrading it and it made no difference. Around the same time I saw my fuel pressure was 16-18 where it had been 12-14 before. I thought maybe there had been a bad connection and plugging the plug back in showed a more true pressure reading. Today I was taking my son to daycare and it showed 60psi as my fuel pressure. That scared me a little so while driving I shut the engine off for a sec then keyed it back on (manual trans) and it started running again. The fuel pressure didn't change but I noticed my vehicle speed was correct this time, and stayed correct the rest of the trip. After I got to work I shut off the truck and turned the key to run without starting, the fuel pressure showed as 30, then 44 when I turned it on. Just now an hour later I did the same thing it read 4 & 18psi. Any ideas why it would read like this?

Eh I'm keeping it for now just have to figure something out, it's rooted so I could edit the files directly or something. Would be nice to keep the import button around for android users since iOS has nothing to do with it No, my speed is off in iQuad but the dash is 100% correct. I had the speedo calibrated for my tires by the dealer. It's the newer flash I believe. I went from last July's or August's flat to January's and it was off. I updated to last week's and it's still off. I downgraded the app to .29 and it's still off, so something is wrong with the iquad reading the speed :-(

Yeah but how often is it at WOT? It's about a 600 PSI higher baseline pressure behind the VP to go from 305-350 bar. I was just wondering if anyone thought it would wear it faster

This was acid-free solder too, right? You may have problems down the road. Solder is not that good for electrical connections that move/vibrate a lot. The solder becomes brittle after a while and you get a bad joint, or the copper strands bread at the end of the solder. Cables like this should be crimped for the best connection. You can solder after if you want, but a good crimp fuses the copper together so tightly that no solder can get in anyway. You can get a cheap 20T crimper on eBay, just be careful you don't crimp too hard and blow out the slave cyl seal ;-) http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/crimp-*and*-solder-a-crimp-connector-good-bad/ https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/ I went through a lot of this when I looked at my battery cables and under the insulation was a green dusty mess. I stripped back the insulation until it was clean wire (4-14") cleaned the copper with some vinegar, then baking soda solution, then dried it, normal heat shrink, crimped on solid tinned copper heavy duty lugs, then 2-layer heat shrink to keep any&all water out. I got some solid zinc battery terminal adaptors to put on the lugs: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/36375/2-0-GA-Battery-Lug-Terminal/ I had a NOCO TZKIT3 but I don't see it on amazon anymore, here's the same. Lead free! http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/c/p/Military-Battery-Terminals-sku-MilTerm001.htm No, but if the water is evaporating, you are doing something very, very wrong. A regular battery can't be discharged like an AGM either. I needed AGM for work where electronics run for a few hours at a time or longer, and this battery has done well even in the below zero days, although I started plugging in the truck for 2 hours to give it a hand. Equalize charging? Shouldn't be needed although there is 1 brand that recommends it, and at least one that says do not do it: http://shop.pkys.com/Battery-Equalization_ep_44.html That said, I'd still rather replace an AGM after 5-8 years and have 0 corrosion issues, a new set of battery cables is like $200 or more done right

If you have access to Sam's Club, they sell about the best batteries you can buy. The Duracell line are rebranded Dekka/East Penn batteries, the only ones left that are still make 100% in the USA, from smelting to finishing. I shoved a group 10 AGM in mine, it has 800CCA/1000CA and 210 min RC. RC is how long it can supply 25A of power (average vehicle draw) before dying. So my single battery can supply 300W of power for over 3h. It doesn't fit quite perfect in the battery box but it's in there ;-)

Soapy water in a spray bottle works for just about all gas leaks. Used it to verify no leaks in my new natural gas pipe, find tire leaks, etc.

How to these higher pop pressures affect the VP44? I realize it's a very high pressure unit, but do you t think the extra fuel pressure in the lines after a pop will have a negative effect on it long term?

I'm on android 5 (cheap amazon fire 7" tablet) and it won't link to the iquad app so i'm stuck. Also something is misreporting my vehicle speed 10-15mph off, but I need to track that down, I had my tire size and driveline in correct and it used to be fine, but either a newer flash or app is getting it wrong

Any idea why my app no longer has an import button? I tried uninstalling and reinstalling but it's still not there. Using play store version.

HIDs are a fun project, especially if you DIY. You can do cheap $20 mini H1s, decent $50 ones or super nice $125 Morimoto r7 H1s. If you want d2s you can get the same as morimoto from the manufacturer on AliExpress for $80 but they require a bit more work with our headlights, the bulb openings need to be enlarged. Great ballasts can be got from DLT, the Fast Brights are great and only about $40/pair just make sure you don't get knockoffs 4500k bulbs give the most light, anything over about 5500k/6000k gets real blue and is less light, and increases the chance you get pulled over. HIDplanet is a great resource for all kinds of DIY and custom/exotic installs. I saw a lawn mower there with a 35W HID projector :-) I know its old, but you can buy/make projector fog lights, they do very well. They are sealed units so no water can get in. There's also some good LED round fog lights that i hear do very well, morimoto sells them but if you look you can find some of the good ones on amazon/ebay as well.

Is there a link to the latest apk with import/export ability? I can't seem to find it. Thanks!

What is the recommended vehicle to pick from in the iQuad app? I saw your export was experimental, there's a generic 2nd gen v.2.5, a 2001-2002 v2.4, and quadzilla only 3.7 Also, where is the apk that has import support? I need a good mpg DD config with my +75 sticks. The default is a little smokey and bucks with very light throttle.

I didn't and it isn't too bad, it helps the lights look normal from a distance, instead of light from only a 2.5" circle. It's not a on of light leaking out the back, and if you want to keep the chrome, you can use aluminum tape on the back of the shroud to block the light instead of painting. Also, if you want to do a little more work but pay less, you can order some high quality stuff direct from china. the mini h1 projectors are hard to find right now (for good ones) but the mini d2s 4.0 are available for only $80.

love the quote.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic and it will absorb a lot of water, then rust out your lines and calipers from the inside out. Manufacturers used to call for yearly break fluid flushes, they cut back because the cost of dealer maintaince, just like they went to platinum plugs because they last 100k miles, even if they give poorer spark. Also the more water in your fluid the lower the boiling point and easier to hit brake failure temps. Sometimes master cylinders fail and need new seals/replacing, or like mopar said, rubber lines collapse and they won't let the fluid out of the calipers... What ended up being the issue?

I put a level on the front crossmember of my truck and jacked the axle to make it level, then you twist the projectors so the beam is perfectly level.