02cumminsdude

Hey guys where can I find some of these resistors? I went to Pep Boys and Ace Hardware, no luck. There is a Radioshack near me, would they have them? I've seen them online so maybe that will be easiest source?

I don't have a trailer, but my numbers are the same as Mikes, only my idle tends to stay closer to 250 than 300.

Sounds easy enough, just gotta get some resistors. Thanks guys

Just like the title says... it's summer and hot here. I've only owned the truck since spring when it never dropped below 40 out, I would like to figure this out BEFORE the cold weather hits this year if possible. I go to the gym 4-5 times a week and it's only a 2 mile drive so I am considering leaving my truck run while working out to prevent possible problems due to frequent short trips and not warming up properly. If I don't have it I will probably do the high idle mod so I can keep the motor warm and EGT's above 300. My truck stays fairly cool even in 80-90 degree weather at idle... I rarely see EGTs over 270 once it's sat for a minute or two, no matter how warm the motor is. Don't know if that's good or bad

I sure hope you are correct. I'm glad you are doing something about this, I don't have the brains or know-how to get too involved in things like that... wish I did, but I just don't. Be sure to keep everyone updated as you uncover things. Anyways here is a short update: Been lighter on the throttle lately and shifting sooner (typically not more than 1700-1800rpm unless I need to speed up for safety reasons) I had been shifting probably around 2000-2200 on my last tank most of the time. The overhead is slowly going up, it may break 17mpg's for the first time since I owned it. If the ratio of increase is similar, should be putting my actual mileage up closer to 15 right now. I almost want to wait until my next fill-up to get around to fixing the leak, just so I can see exactly how my right foot alone affected my mileage...

The only known issue at this point is the fuel leak somewhere behind the head. I actually turned my Edge down to level 1 until I fix it, because it doesn't leak nearly as much as level 5 does. But aside from that, my EGT's seem to stay in check with what they should be from what I've read, fuel pressure is always a solid 14-15psi, only thing I don't monitor too well while driving is the boost. But it seems to stay below 10psi under moderate acceleration, under heavy acceleration I've seen it in the 20's before. - - - Updated - - - Don't worry about hi-jacking, I don't mind the thread being used to help others as well, I'm just trying gain as much info as possible from peoples experiences.

I don't see anything wrong with owning a truck and still wanting it to be as efficient as possible... I mean, if I had come on here asking how to get 30mpg's out my 8000lb. truck, I could expect some critism...But anyways, this is turning out to be a pretty useful thread, I'm just going to sit back and soak up the information for now. I need to fix the leak before I start to think about spending money on upgrades.

Moparman - That will definitely take some practice for me haha. That's suprising that in the mild weather you lost mpg's... With previous gas motors I had always thought my mpg's went up slightly, maybe another diesel thing I wasn't aware of?Dripley - Yeah the V10 was a good truck to drive, but my auto trans was starting to hold gears for a looong time, so that influenced me for the trade-in (which was well worth it)

Damn, that's way too low for my liking. My V10 got about 8-9 average and I told myself that my Cummins will be making at least twice the mileage of that, so minimum 16 is my goal hands down.

MoparMan I see our trucks are somewhat similar both in current and my future plans. I believe my truck has 4.10 gears though (could have been my 00 V10, I forget), but if it does, that's really the only thing I see having much of an affect. What's your driving style? I remember you saying before that you always keep your programmer maxed out, which I do as well. Other than driving style, I know I NEED to get the leak fixed... I can't imagine exactly how much fuel I am losing while driving and then while sitting parked as well until the line empties...

My overhead read about 16.7 to 16.9, but actual mileage was only 14.2, on stock size tires. Most driving was short trips and basically no highway miles. I know that's not TERRIBLE numbers but I am hoping to get up there around 17-20 mpg if possible. I was using the overhead to adjust my driving style and it seemed the harder I accelerated (to a degree) the mileage went up, so I would try to drive it harder, I think this tank I will ease up and see what happens. But other than that, I need to fix a small fuel leak behind the motor. I think it's the stock return line but haven't pinpointed it yet. Some ideas of future upgrades are AFE Stage 2 intake, RV275's, maybe a larger intake horn? Besides that, all pumps and fluids are fresh, so what else can I look into for mileage and performance?

My knob popped off pretty easily, you have to turn it a certain way and pull it out. It will only come off and go back on one way, so if you play around with it, it I think you will figure it out. Only took me maybe 5 minutes to have mine installed, and I was doing everything by myself.

I'm not sure what causes that but I have noticed a similar feeling to my truck. I get a pretty strong jolt of power through 3rd gear and up. BTW how long does your truck take to warm up? I feel like since I installed my Edge the throttle is not as smooth until I significantly warm the truck up. Maybe this is just a diesel thing, but like taking off from a stop, the RPM will surge and you can actually feel the truck being "held back" until the it gets to operating temps and stays there for a while. And this is in 70-80 degree weather too. It's almost like the RPM rises in increments instead of one smooth motion.

It was pretty dark. I shined a light in the reservoir and it LOOKED green, but I think that was my light. When I wiped the cap off, it was more of REALLY dark red, almost black color. I threw the towel away but I'll go check it again incase I'm just forgetting what I saw. --- Update to the previous post... Hm, you know what, I think it actually is green. Almost like a coolant green color. Pretty dark too. I always thought PS was clear or red in color. I'm thinking it maybe time to change out the fluid. --- Update to the previous post... Follow up question: does anyone have a sure-fire way of flushing the PS fluid properly? I googled it and found some vague results with different people saying different ways but never actually explaining how to remove the old fluid completely. Basically just saying things like "it SHOULD work" or "it SHOULD get the fluid pretty clear". Is there a proper way to flush it or not?

PS and brake fluid are full, well actually brake fluid was almost an inch under the full mark, so that needs topped off. I noticed a little bit of rust accumulating on the u-joint on the intermediate shaft, and what looks like dirty oil vapor build up on the spring on the steering shaft. The spring that get replaced when you install the Rock Solid bushing. So maybe I should scrape up the 60 bucks or so for this bushing and see where it takes me before I get too involved in expensive parts... wallet still hurts a little from the fuel pumps I recently did.

I hope not. I don't see how they would. They are factory size tires, with aftermarket Pro Comps. The previous owner put them on so I'm not sure what the specs are. However I can say the offset brings the tire about flush with fender flares. So if anything, I would think the tires would be even further away from rubbing anything than the factory rims. Also, I'm turning on just about completely flat ground so there isn't any suspension flex during it.

Hey guys I have a little issue that I'm not sure how to determine where it's coming from exactly. Every time I round my cul-de-sac (sharp left turns at low speed basically) I get a rubbery feeling vibration through the steering wheel. Doesn't make a whole lot of noise, just a feel. It started out as a quick, sudden thing, but now happens for about the entire first rotation of the steering wheel. I'm not sure where to start looking and probably wouldn't know what exactly to look for even if I did. I have been thinking about buying the Rock Solid Ram steering bushing to tighten up the wheel a tad, should I do this and see if it still happens?

So what can individual people do achieve such great mileage? Obviously we can't buy the motors in the car, but what exactly is needed to build a similar motor here in the US? Is it in the tuning? Surely there has to be some kind of information on these high mileage motors that can be transferred to our diesels by anyone with some mechanical know how. Just because the government won't sell the motors as a whole, shouldn't stop people from trying achieve these numbers. I'm not into politics, but I'm going to look into some of this.

I'll take at a look at all that stuff when I get a chance, but I'm not very concerned about something being wrong with it. Especially since the Mustang I had was in excellent shape an also did it. It just seems to happen whenever RPMs are a little high for whatever MPH you are moving, then release the throttle suddenly. Never happens when I'm just normally driving unless something unexpected happens or I just get sloppy for a moment.

I've noticed in my truck and when I had my 5 speed Mustang GT years ago, that when you let off the throttle somewhat suddenly, without pressing the clutch at all, the whole vehicle seems to jolt quickly. Say for example, I pull out and shift normally to 4th gear, then a car cuts me off, and I immediately release the throttle without clutching at all. The whole truck jolts. Doesn't make any clunks or bad sounds. But I was just curious as to what this is and if it does any harm. It gets progressively worse the higher the speed of the truck and RPM's. Usually doesn't do it at lower speeds unless RPM is high. My truck has a fairly new Southbend clutch and the Mustang I referred to had like 30k on it. So it seems unlikely anything is wrong with the vehicle, I was just always curious what exactly was going on and if I should take extra care to avoid it whenever possible.

Just installed some Pioneer 6x9's and my power tow mirrors. Everything works great, but the passenger mirror had the same issue. I was able to tighten the nuts on the bottom studs and it pulled the top on in. I did use the bracket that was on the truck already instead of the KoolVue bracket, which helped a little.

Just received my controller today, so I will price out some speakers to install while the panels are off, and if it doesn't fit, I'll try swapping the studs around. If that doesn't work it'll be off to the hardware store for me.

Very helpful article. I've been working on a deck all day today and probably a good bit tomorrow. I might be able to get under there and check it out later tomorrow sometime.

I did have them send me a new passenger side mirror with a new bracket, but had the exact same problem. That has me wondering if maybe something was wrong with my other truck, or I had some really bad luck with two separate mirrors being faulty in the same exact way.

Went to the gym tonight, pulled up on the pedal as I held in the release handle, and the light disappeared and stayed off. So obviously the pedal isn't fully returning on it's own. But the when the brake is applied, it still flashed in a timed manner. I haven't had a chance to get someone out there with me to hit the pedal when I look underneath. But if this new info points towards an adjustment of some sort that I can do on my own, I'll try that first. Remember to post some pics if you have them available, or just try to be as detailed as possible so I know what I'm looking to do. Thanks guys