diesel4life

The spring I had in there was not the right one and was clipped down and is the reason the ball stuck, even though I had the end turned in towards the center. The new spring I ordered from Vulcan is coiled tight enough at the bottom I don't believe it will be an issue but time will tell.

The big 3 are all using DEF/SCR technology now. Time will tell how reliable Rams system is but early reports seem to be very promising from what I have seen. I agree that deleting the 12 and prior trucks would probably be the best bet but I don't think thats going to be the case with the new trucks. A fraction of the regens, increased fuel mileage and torque over the 12 and older models, 15k mile oil changes, the option for an Aisin transmission, and an upgraded fuel filtration system. Get in it, drive it, and never look back.

I smell a member discount!! In all seriousness, good luck with the new venture.

I had to do the same thing with my spring 2 weeks ago. For a moment I thought I had some fuel gelling on me but watching the gauge going down the road the pressure kept fluctuating which led me to believe I had a spring issue rather than fuel gelling. So I nursed it the rest of the way home and in -10 degree weather I ripped that sucker out and sure enough the ball was wedged in the spring again. It was a homemade spring to begin with so I took the new spring I had ordrered from Vulcan and used it and kept the old one for a spare.

Hmm, must be something they did on the earlier models maybe...I can't see it being Beetle specific but it is possible. There is a blue coolant symbol on the dash when the engine is cold and goes off when the engine is luke warm. The only thing I found in the owners manual was that VW recomends easy driving until the light goes out. Doesnt mention what temp that may be, and there is only an idiot light for temp, no gauge.

Can't forget about his early sketches of what would eventually become the Beetle either, or "The Peoples Car". At a time where only the wealthy owned automobiles, Hitler envisioned a car for the common man. I believe he turned his original plans over to Diamler Benz. He was a very intelligent man, its a shame he used it to manipulate millions of innocent people.

You wont find one on the dodge. We got off topic on the VWs. Time for sleepy!

Congrats!

OK, were really getting off topic (sorry joecool), but does anyone know what temp the blue coolant light for the cold engine in the dash goes off on the VWs? I have noticed on several mornings starting the car with the block heater plugged in and that light is off instantly. On a similar morning without the heater plugged in it will take several miles of driving before the light goes off. I'm going to have to break out the IR gun and start recording ambient temps compared to coolant temps.

You can keep your negative weather! I'll keep my positive I like it just fine!! LOL

I will be sure to get out and get some readings this week.

For a stock truck with a stock transmission/torque convertor, theres probably nothing wrong with it as long as its not cutting out or hesitating. The 47re is not the most efficient transmission in stock form. It is adequate for a stock motor but your not going to be passing any sports cars on a grade towing a trailer... If you do alot of towing or plan on any engine mods in the future, an upgraded valve body and TC will go a long way for transferring the power better. Or, you can just drive it and enjoy it.

I believe Volkswagon is referring to those Canadian rigs...I was referring to the older cars in my original post, being I don't keep up very well with anything new..$$$$ When I was looking for a TDI I came across a good deal on Craigslist for a gently used Frost Heater. I kept the number and when I found a car I called the guy to see if he still had it and he did. While we don't get real cold weather here it is nice for the wife. I have it set up on a timer for 2 hours prior and she can literally go out on a 10 degree morning, start the car and it is making instant heat. Not hot, but definitely warm enough to call heat! Its amazing they put such a massive heater in a car with so little coolant capacity. I keep meaning to take my IR gun out there and get a coolant temp reading out of curiosity to see how warm it really is.

Are you sure they come from the factory with a heater? The only thing Im going by is on the TDI forum, alot of them guys brag about how cold they start their car with no heater....I know they make aftermarket jobs like the Frost Heater. I had to put a brand new battery in our Beetle late fall but the one morning I drove it to work it was -12 and once the GP did their thing she spun over like a hamster wheel.

Cummins recomendation is 0F, I agree it doesn't hurt (except at the meter) but I have to wonder if you experienced a loss of compression, or if components like your starter, batteries, and cables have all declined in performance over the years. It does not get below 0 here often, maybe a handful of times a year, but it does get down to single digits at night during the cold months, so we technically fit in that area where generally plugging in is not needed. I know of lots of construction equipment and farm equipment that has spent many years sitting outside during the winter months and fired up everyday without being plugged in with no ill effects. My family has a large dairy farm with some tractors that have been around since the early 80s that literally get run 7 days a week, never get plugged in, and run like a top. Same with my job, we have equipment thats well north of 10k hours and they all run well. Another point to ponder is that VW TDIs do not even come with block heaters. VW feels they are not necessary and are confident their engines will start in sub zero weather with a set of glow plugs and a good battery. I know theres lots of TDIs running around in the frozen north of Canada being started daily in frigid temps.

What were the symptoms when you parked it? Was the truck running? Hard starts? I'm just wondering if you have a leaky fuel line somewhere and are losing prime to the system.

Just be careful of towing at higher speeds...I didn't see where they stated their rating but in general ST tires have a rather low speed rating. Generally it's not an issue unless/until you get on the freeway with it, and everybodys running you over because your trying to stay under 65mph. Other than that, they should be a big improvement over the 15" tires you were running.

We recently had a cold snap (for us) and hit -10 to -15. I meant to plug my truck in before going to bed but forgot all about it until I had to go start it at 4AM. The grid heaters ran for what seemed like a loong time, but once they were done I hit the key and she lit right off. My brother in law in Wyoming leaves his truck sit up at their cabin for days at a time. I'ts right at 10k feet in elevation, and when the sun goes down it gets cold QUICK. -20 to -30 at night is fairly normal during the coldest months. He does not have the option to plug in because they have no electricity, and his Cummins has never let him down. On a few occasions he has talked of sticking a kerosene heater under the oil pan for a bit just to get the oil warmed up, but thats extreme cold. One thing you may think about is keeping some type of anti gel treatment with you and dose your tank. If your buying fuel local to where your hunting it shouldnt be a problem, but any kind of unseasonally cold temps might be a good idea to be proactive and dose the tank.

Do you have a torpedo heater? Or take the cover inside to warm it up, put the silicone on it, and take it out and install it. Or, for roughly the price of a tube of silicone, you can go buy a gasket and be done with it. IIRC the front and rear cost less than $15.

Have you done any 1/4 mile runs with that bad boy?

Sweaty Teddy tells it like it is!

Just make sure you don't have a MOOG track bar under there, their bars are oversized and the links will not work. I'm trying to remember the size but am not positive, I believe MOOG lists the size of their bars online if your not sure.

You generally don't have to on the 24 valves, but the weaker springs on the 12 valve engines require an upgrade.

I would replace the relay before spending that kind of money...I have not seen a relay ever draw enough amps to pop a fuse but if you can bypass it and the pump runs there may be something in there going on. I dont know if you could match that relay at an autoparts store or if it is AD specific....