MNorby

I had same problem and could tell the top latch was releasing but not the bottom. If I pushed in and jerked the lever it would open though. I took door apart and where the lever it to go to the top and bottom latch the bolt that it pivots on was loose and allowing that lever to flop over and not release the bottom latch. If you crank it tight it binds up the lever too so I used some locktight and snugged it up. Lubed all the linkages and been working great for a year now since I bought the truck.

I just used a $15 vacuum seal kit i got off ebay and ended up with a new steering pump to fix the worn drive gear and groove on the steering pump shaft. Works great and leak free. I went ahead and flushed the PS system while I already had it half drained too.

Mine was just a little oily around the pumps too untilled last week when it suddenly turned into a geyser. Leaked 3 qt of oil just driving 7 miles to my work shop. For the $16 for seal kit it worth doing sooner than later IMO. It really isn't hard at all.

Got mine done this morning. Seal job was easy then left the return lines off the ps pump and topped off the reservoir then bumped engine and kept refilling till the oil coming out of the returns was looking cleaner.

On mine with the worn out drive dogs I found a friend that had a vacuum pump with a cracked seal housing but vacuum pump in good shape to replace that side. The drive dog for the PS pump if $92 from deal so just bought a new PS pump from napa for $52 with new dog on it. Already had a new seal kit on the way to refresh it all. The PS fluid had a strong green/yellow tint to it. It was one thing I was planning on flushing this summer but over half way there now so will finish that off with new fluid.

got pump removed this mroning and cleaning them up to do the seak kit when I noticed the teeth on the drive hubs between the vacuum pump and steering pump are badly worn. Friend thinks he has another pump setup, hopefully.

Yeah, looks like a easy job. There is a steady stream of oil coming out of the bracket between the pumps right now. Will probably take truck to shop tuesday or wednesday so I can get torn down and all the parts cleaned up so when the seal kit shows up I can slam it back together.

Just ordered parts to do mine. Drove home today and found my truck turned into the deepwater horizon.

We used to use citrol to clean adhesive residue from graphics removed on sleds. I bet that stuff would work good too. Or goo-gone or goof off or anything like that I bet. ---------------------Posted with mistakes from my phone.

How about these to hold canoe on truck roof http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Standard-Block-Universal-Carrier/dp/B000SXN90C then make or buy one of these for your hitch http://www.amazon.com/Thule-997-Hitch-Adapter-Carriers/dp/B0001HACGE/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1348197397&sr=1-2&keywords=canoe+receiver+hitch

I use some purple power degreaser misted on it and my grill to clean off bugs then pressure wash. Generally have to use the wash mit on the smoke stain though. I try to give it a quick wash every few weeks but I have a nice hotsey at work.

I am thinking maybe the same thing, add some LS now and try it for a month or so and see if it helps before I change oil and add coolers.

when I did mine I found the brackets cheapest on ebay, think was like $28 shipped for a pair last summer.

on my 97 I changed it with fluid I got from Blumenthals which supposedly is the castrol stuff they buy in bulk and re-sell. I want to change it in my 01 that has 140k and wondering if I should add some LS at the same time. I plan on a set of those fast PTO coolers too when I do it, figure can't hurt and makes an easy port for a temp sender.

Anyone here have experiance using LS addative? Mine like to grind going into reverse but if you select and forward gear first then reverse it slips right in. No other shifting problems at all.

I'd do a bunch of measuring, cross-measuring, etc to see what is out of square. Also I wouldn't waste the time trying to straighten it, I had a trailer that got hit by a car. I used chains, come-alongs, boomers, etc and got it all square again. A few years later it started wearing tires funny again. Measured and it was getting bad again. $70 later I had a new axle beam and was better off. This was on a 18' 7k car hauler trailer.

Here is my current setup. [ATTACH]4226[/ATTACH]

Thats what I have been using except I take the valve/hose off and thread it directly onto the gallon jug of oil.

My old truck I made a rack that went from the back of bed by tailgate and went to the wheel well that kept the gallon jug stood up and easy to get and also had my mount for my nitrogen tank. Worked slick but I had a topper on it so just had to open lid and grab jug. With the hose funnel it kept it clean except for the bottles it didn't want to seal on well. I just guessed on the fill though.

Everyone says to add 1 oz per gallon of fuel. What is everyone using to measure or store their oil in their truck prior to filling up? I have used 2 stroke for the last 3 or 4 years in my old 12v and now in my 24v. I have always just carried the walmart gallon jug in my toolbox and I used the hose part off of one of these funnels: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FTL0/10704/N0027.oap?ck=Search_funnel_N0027_-1_1567 . The hose and valve unscrews off the white funnel part and is the same threads as the gallon jug. I always kinda guess how much oil to pour in depending on how low on fuel I am but have never measure it out. Sometimes the hose funnel doesn't seal well on some bottles and can be messy too. I am thinking of finding some small bottles and just fill them up out of the big jug at home and carry a few small bottles. Maybe like 20oz pop bottles then you know if your down to a 1/3 tank use the whole thing or whatever. What does everyone else use?

Is there an ohm test you can do to verify thermocouple accuracy?

This. Every parts store here has a wall full of trailer stuff including direct plug in harnesses. Myself, I'd just get a new plug and wire in to existing wires and save a few dollars.

My 97 had the spacer on the passenger side. Haven't had tires off on new truck yet. I was told it was because axle width or spacing wasn't centered in truck to that was the factory "fix".

I generally try to torque bolts to a half turn before they break :whistle:Honestly though you kinda get a feel for it for the size of fastener you are working with. Don't need a 1/2" drive breaker bar for a 3/8" bolt and a 1/4" drive ratchet probably isn't up to the job for lug nuts.

Subscribing too.