randy4140

Mike, I hope all is well with family, Have seen no other notifications. Randy

Has anyone else had these issues with their trucks, I can be the only one with the thousands of CTD's out there. And the wiring diagram in the article, I cant seem to blow it up to print so I can read it?

Are there Tech articles on the PDC? If so I haven't found them. I seem to be having power/ground issues there (PDC) If I turn on headlamps the truck shuts down. Will restart if switch is off. Also have no heater blower at same time. Engine code is no ECM communication. Seems to either be a power interruption or most probably a ground issue? Any ideas on where to start. the bottom of the PDC is difficult to get to!

So just to be clear, sorry. You use the stock calipers with larger pads?? Doesn't seem to make sense to me that you would retain the stock 2000 calipers on 2004 "larger brackets, pads, rotors...

TFaoro. I am thinking I like the 2012 wheels you have on yours ! Dieselfuture. What are the difference in the 04 brakes? Larger? would I need caliper brackets and all? rotors?

I am re-building my 2000 CTD 2 wd truck after several bad MICHIGAN salty winters...geesh I wish I would have oiled the insides of everything like I know I should have.... Anyway I am looking to upgrade the wheels and tires and need to know "what fits" from other years ect? Looking to go with maybe a newer take off wheel in a larger diameter. This will be only a road truck, no off road, stock height, fiberglass boards, I do tow a 5 th wheel. I heard that 8 lug ford wheels were the same. I do not plan to buy new wheels but would like to find some in ex condition somewhere and get new tires. So ! any ideas?? Many thanks to all on this forum for all you do

Thanks to all, with a little searching after my post I found the tech article on it and ordered the kit, now I have the vac pump kit and the starter contact kit, now to get to work!!

Help, I know I have seen a tech article or something on my leak in the past, just can't seem to find it now. I have oil leaking from between my power steering pump and what ever the pump in front of it is? maybe a hydro boost pump? sits below the injector pump. As I have the truck torn down for body work I would like to repair the seals ect if avalable. Many Thanks in advance!!

If the fitting is the one I am thinking of, it is a brass fitting ahead of the linkage, I think it's the "hot line".I broke one on my truck and had to order it from a dealer, it wasn't cheap, like $40.00....ouchIt was a special fitting and I wasn't able to source one locally due to the was the line went in, I hope you have better luck finding one than I did.....good luck

Travis;What have you found out on your trans issues?Mine is kind of doing the same thing, will not shift out of 1st with throttle on, but if I let up on the pedal or just drive easy she will shift to 2 nd and so on fine.The truck has 120K on it, trans has been serviced, no mods. Anybody have an idea to help??I was thinking a shift solenoid but????Thx Randy

Hey,For us that don't know.....Who and Where is Larry B.Where do we get these contacts from? Thx

I do have a shift kit and a H D Converter, stock Valve body for now though......only so much $$$$to go round eh?

You are probably already going to look at this...but don't forget the KDP fix..How many miles are on this motor that it needs "freshening up"??And thanks for all the pic's ect, good write up so far...

It was a "side job" for a Dodge mechanic, and a favor for my son who is a GM mechanic..............gotta love cash !!

I got mine from Diesel Auto Power, best price and service like Mike said. $995.00 / free shipping

Hey!!!! I got my trans back from the rebuilder.......$200.00 / Parts, and $150.00 / Labor....$425.00 total with fluid and I am back on the road, yeah!!Anyway everything seems fine, shifts good, better than before, he found both clutch pacs were worn some, rear pac was worse, and siezed up kind of from a fibre washer that kind of melted for some reason. The trans was heated up pretty good once but that was a year ago????Anyway he put in new clutch pacs and seals, bands were like new, O D Clutches were good too. Good news to me.....Back burnin grease and rollin coal

Thanks Michael, that's what I thought, but was confused with the several options by Vulcan ect. So in your opinion if the stock one is working...should I upgrade to a Vulcan draws traw anyway? Is there a great difference in reliability and performance? am I going to notice any difference by changing it

Thx to all, you know what really SUCKS about this whole timing case issue it--and I shouldn't admit this here but oh well--I replaced my VP44 1 month ago, and knew about the KDP prior, I must have had a brain fart and not remembered it at the time, I was almost there. Had the rad out and everything, would have been easier to do it then eh???

Looks like this guy is working on a 1st gen not a 24V 47RH. Though the basics are the same it would be great to see a thorough rebuild sequence on a 47RH

Help me understand...Do we all have in tank pumps? To go along with the stock Carter/or other lift pumps on the motor, and The VP44??/Or do just some years have an in tank pump?I was under the impression--mistakenly perhaps--That all I had in the tank was a pickup straw, and a sending unit for the fuel level.Please explain this to me, Thx

So I guess I should tear off the cover ect and perform the tab fix anyway, as there is no clear answer to the question as to if the 200 needs it eh??My case is not broken as yet, so I do not need to worry about heating the camshaft ect as I will not be needing to remove the case. Thx

JohnFak, I am in MI not CO but it gets cold here too...I just found a Derale cooler similar to yours at Jegs, and it was $165.00. Better price $$$wise but not sure how it compares with yours.So if I understand your installation it went like this, please correct me if I am mistakenYou went from Trans hot out to the factory exchanger, to your external cooler to the front cooler then back to the trans???

So, to all,of you, the question of the day is this. Do I tear apart my 2000 24V to do the tab fix? of do I not have an issue with a 2000 as MnTom suggests???I am all for it if it needs to be done but that being said it is still a lot of work if done needlessly.........So is there anyone who has had this issue KDP with a 2000 CTD? That will answer the question in my mind anyway. Thanks to all

Where did you get the parts required to do this? are they OEM or??

Johnfak, and maybe others, I have a question not directly about your cooler setup, though I think it looks great. I have been having issues with my trans for some time and I feel it is related to heat, so I have been looking at different styles of coolers ect. I heard recently that some were removing the "check valve" that is in the stock "water to oil heat exchanger" on our trucks, it is on the right side of the motor. The trans lines go from the trans out to the exchanger then up to the cooler then return to the trans.My question then is this, Has anyone here removed the check valve? if so with what results? good/bad?What about eliminating the exchanger completely and going directly to the front cooler, as some say it can get "plugged up" causing a restriction in oil flowMy "source" claims a reduction of 20 degrees on his trans temp after removing the check valve