guesswho512

are you talking about one of these? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/PSC-Steering-Box-Stabilizer-for-94-02-4WD-p/pscss.htm i am about to put one on. you don't think that could bend the pitman shaft?

where can you get a decent set of gauges for a good price. last week i bought the harbor freight and the 2nd use was just checking the dodge. the high side hose's crimp broke @~275psi. the hose's say 500psi on them. wife's uncle(who works on ice machines) told her to get my money back.

is there a way to test the relays with a multi-meter? i think i had a relay freak out the other day. when i swapped it for another it worked.http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1932-Need-help-with-code!!!!

most of the time i hear bio-diesel and bad pumps, frying oil is involved. voids warranty because of "poor/low quality fuel". i even saw a pic of a head that was rotting away. supposedly he was also running veggie oil. i wish i could get some regular LSD

two words...salt and pressure

have you tried the suncoast fix? look at: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=18 or http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=75

that is the trick. everyone looks at me stupid when they see me pull a trans fluid bottle out and pour it in the tank(i buy the wally world gallon). i have even toyed with the idea with painting the fuel lid green. maybe a little sticker.

did really well in science!

they are using common-rail injection on this new 6.7, does anyone know which pump it is?bore 3.90", stroke 4.25", compression ratio 16.2/1my 99 is: bore 4.02, stroke 4.72, 16.3/1the 6.7liter cummins is: bore 4.21, stroke 4.88i guess the power fairy is liking those other 2 cylinders, or someone is breaking emissions on the test bench:2cents:

i believe they are 16x6.5 rims. it says on the driver's side door jab sticker last saturday evening, i had the driver's rear tire's belt split. it held air but was horribly warped. had a bad vibration. had to drive on it until tuesday. turns out that almost nobody stocks 16.5s. monday wife went back home(~100miles one way) to get the factory rims. i only had the 16.5s on the back because the front needs spacers. they were 33x12.5r16.5, discount tire beat out sam's club when my wife called ~25 local places. but after they sneaked the bonus warrenties and balances they charged ~$370 to the card for (2)yokohama geolander ats 245x75r16 load range E. at least my speedo is accurate again(odometer too). i noticed that the wheel well has more space:rolleyes: the old tires were real good on the highway because it gave a taller gear and heavier wheels will store more energy(like a heavy flywheel), although the city mileage would suffer.

hey all. what chaos! guesswhoswifey didn't quite get the story strait. got in the truck to leave for work(45min late). it started right up like always, ran for ~2 seconds and died. when i turned the key to start it, i could tell the AirDog was not running right(just be the sound). i immediately thought my airdog died. i crawl under the truck and the pump is still in one piece and the wires were untouched. i had guesswhoswifey crank while i looked for leaks(none). popped the hood and checked the battery terminals(okay). then i swapped the fuel pump relay with another(possibly the ASD relay,tho i thought it was the horn or wiper relay). the airdog sounded normal. after cranking to purge the air. the truck started up and gave no problems. after ~5 starts later the "check engine" light went away. the wipers and horn still work, so i am not sure it was a relay. any opinions are appreciated.

This is guesswho's wife... guesswhoswifey Guesswho is at work at Code Red and has asked me to make a post for him. This morning as he went to leave for work, all of the sudden the truck would not start. :banghead: His Air Dog fuel pump was not kicking on either. After 10 minutes of messing with different things, he finally got it to start and the pump had finally kicked on. He continues on to work and realizes know that now the check engine light is on and deceides to go to Autozone to have the code read. At the store they get code P1689, autozone says failed injection pump. Guesswhos question is, does this code automatically condemn the injection pump? What are our options? Also, he wanted to know if anyone knew what the ASD relay controlled that is in the fuse box under the hood? We are freaking out! We could use any help that you can give us! Thanks guys!

timing (from a factory standpoint) is one of the biggest things that effect emissions. the intercooler, vp44,cp3 are all upgrades for emissions. while more/less timing@ various rpms might meet stricter emission laws.

should do no harm...but i would lower it to 17 or 18 yes. the banjos have are very small passages. you should do 3/8" (or even 1/2") fuel hose for the system. your pressure loss will be less ---------- Post added at 07:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ---------- i have Universal Big Line Filter to Injection Pump Kit w/ fuel pressure access check here for ideas: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/182.htm

my dark tanned arms even got a mean sunburn...and the humidity:stuned:

i would be interested in seeing how many PIDs you can get data from. most of them return nothing(on my 99's ) i would imagine that a newer truck has more PIDs that are usedon the wiki link, read the part about non-standard PIDs

a buddy who live in california had a latino jump his fence to steal his air compressor. a german trained rot tore chunks of meat from this guys arm. the latino sued(and won) my friend because the beware of dog sign was not in spanish, and the guy couldn't read/speak english. palm springs had the dog put down

manual trans are not hard to work on(if you know what order everything goes in). drop it and take the top cover off. most trans top covers will have the forks attached. the "dog collar" is what selects the gears. if you "cant find it and grind it" you are not grinding gears but the collar and sycros. you will have to disassemble the main shaft if you have to do anything other than 5/reverse.when my ranger's trans "grinds" in gear, it was the teeth broke on the input shaft. it drove fine. but made awful racket! of course it took the counter shaft with it!

it is interesting to note that the FSM says to replace the whole starter, instead of servicing the wear parts. it worked with no problem...then one day....*click*click* i wondered if you could push start a diesel, but realized that i couldn't get that truck up to speed to even try:lmao: i will mention that while i was waiting for $ and shipping to my door, i took the contact that was the most wore, and made the hole for the stud longer to allow the contact to be closer to the plunger. worked no problems until i got the contacts(6 months later, i know im a procrastinator) (1) Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both batteries. (2) Raise and support vehicle. (3) Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid battery terminal far enough to access and remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 10). (4) Remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid terminal stud.(17mm) (5) Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs. (6) While supporting starter motor, remove three bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing(8 or 10mm 12 point bolts, use box wrench or suitable socket) (7) Remove starter motor from engine (certain diesel engines have an aluminum spacer mounted between the starter and the starter mounting flange. Note position and orientation of spacer before removal). now you can take the nut on the other side off(15mm). then a phillips screwdriver removes the 3 cap screws. when the cap comes off the plunger springs out. there is a little ball behind the spring(mine didn't come out, but remember it is there, don't lose it). with the plunger out of the way, you can take the out side nuts off the studs. because of the plastic guards, i could not get a good enough bit with a wrench. and impact wrench made short work. with the nuts off, you can remove the studs. the contacts are press on the studs. swap the old contacts for the new ones. try to keep the contact touching the backplate while tightening the nut(they try to twist when you tighten). take the spring off the old plunger and place on new one. put the ball in if it came out. insert new plunger. replace cap. connect the to the stud and install starter on truck!

i crawled under the front and had the wife cut the wheels lock to lock. i could see the sector shaft does not stay centered, in fact it moves quite a bit! i was looking at the PSC brace, but everyone says its a 4X4 piece. so i got BD's brace for 2wd(here in front of me waiting, for new gearbox and sway bar bushings).

as an obd2 scan tool(my opinion) you probably will not get anything that the scan gauge gives you. most obd2 stuff has to do with gassers and emissions. on my 99 ram, only a few things could be monitored. its because even though the ECM might be monitoring the sensor, your device can only ask for generic obd2 PIDs. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs you may have better result as a newer ECM would have newer software and more registered PIDs this is most of the things i could monitor(for now ) the more PIDs in monitored, the slower the refreshes were. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1275-data-from-my-drive-on-the-highway to monitor EVERYTHING you need a chrysler DRB-III

ball joints are not that bad if you have a good press. the only time i took the control arm off is: if i was changing the control arm bushings(big pain in the arse) or if you have to replace the entire upper control arm(f150s and little cars)

the "boost elbow" is only for HX(manual trans) and HY(autos) need a "j hook".they both work by restricting the airflow to the wastegate(effectively keeping it closed at higher boost). remember, that without a chip that does boost fooling, this will not help anything as the ECM will see boost and 20 and defuel to lower boost level to stock

i don't know what it looks like on the scangauge...but on my live data tool, MAP is ~14.6=0 (on my 99)so if it says 20psi than you really have about 5.4psi. search for my live data if your interested in what my data look like ---------- Post added at 12:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ---------- here it is. there are 3 on there http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1275-data-from-my-drive-on-the-highway

what is wrong with the head(warped, cracked)?