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HE351ve install / retrofit 2nd Gen Cummins

Me78569
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Me78569

Me78569

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All updates beyond this point will be placed in the article for this.  You can find the article here.  Feel free to post and questions or improvements to my writeup.

 

Thanks

 

Nick

 

 

Article can be found here.

 

 

 

Pre 7/6/15

 

This will show the progress in installing the he351ve into my 2nd gen cummins.  I will update as I go along.   This thread is not dealing with the controller needed for the he351ve.  The thread that covers the controller can be found here

 

Parts

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HX40 style Downpipe click to go to vulcan for the part ($125)

DPS-DP-4-2T.jpg

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t3 to wgmt flange adapter to mate the he351ve to the t3 exhaust manifold. ($150)

 

$T2eC16FHJGQFFho+Oh5nBRd)(JgYFw~~60_1.JP

 

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4 Ft of 5/8' coolant hose for your local parts store ($10)

 

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5/8" oil rated hose 2' worth ($5)

 

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10 x 5/8" pipe clamps. 

 

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T3 oil drain ( ebay)

Capture_zpsbmoyyaut.png

 

 

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2 x 5/8" T fitting ($5) Local Parts Store

 

m56vEW2ZGx4CJNC97RcEkhw.jpg

 

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HE351Ve turbo ( $300-$600) depending on where you get it.  I would suggest CumminsForum or here of course if one is for sale.

 

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You will need some way of attaching the hotside intercooler tubes/boots to the turbo since the output from the Turbo faces forward rather than down like the 2nd gen turbos.  

 

I went with the charge tube from Stainlessdiesel.com HERE

stainless%20diesel%20pipe-250x250.jpg

 

You will need a  2.75" to 3" reducer and clamps for this to work.   

 

There are also reports that a 45* reducing elbow will work also.  unsure on that but you can try.

 
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First Specs on the Turbos

 

HX35 56/60/12 60ish lb/min left vs HE351ve 60/68/3-25 right 69ish lb/min

 

20150603_183435_zps3yjoguzv.jpg

 

 

Start pulling the old turbo off

 

Use PB blaster or similar on the flange bolts for a few days prior to removal.

20150603_174427_zpsk04lu5us.jpg

 

Double nut the two bottom studs and remove them so you can bolt the adapter flange to the manifold.  The short bots go in the bottom and the long bolts with the nuts attach the holes of the flange.

 

 

Next if your truck is like mine (auto) there is a hard coolant line just behind the exhaust manifold that will block the rear most bolt on the adapter flange from being used.  you can see the bolt hole in question.  

20150606_102708_zpszk0oa84x_edit_1433608

 

Use the 5/8"coolant hose and a 5/8" T fitting to remove the hardline and replace it with the coolant hose.  You will need to run this to just in front of the oil filter and also to the output of the coolant line from the HE351ve.

 

20150606_165642_zps1x3xq0cy.jpg 

 

 

Next you need to remove the old downpipe if you don't already have an HX40 style installed.    this is a PITA to say the least.  I had to cut mine out.  The hx40 style downpipe flange will attach to the back of the he351ve without the elbow.

 

In order to allow for a more vertical position of the center section I cut off the top of the strut nut.

 

20150608_165614_zpsbf1nvlep.jpg  

 

Center Section installed and coolant hose run to the turbo.  I still need to run the return to the hot line, but I need some more hose.

 

I used a sawzall to cut the flange off the Oil return tube.  I will use some oil rated hose to connect the turbo to the return line.  You can see in this picture that I just reused the OEM banjo bolts for the coolant connections.  I used a hack saw to cut the braided section off so it was just a solid metal banjo bolt.  I then just pushed the 5/8" coolant line over and used a hose clamp.  I will do an fittings at some point, but for now this will work.

20150608_171520_zpskqqksubt.jpg

 

 

Once the center section is installed,ensure you have removed the alignment dowels from the compressor housing so you can clock the compressor like so

 

20150615_195717_zpskrlt2tif.jpg

 

Use the preferred method of connecting the charge pipe, I choose the stainless diesel pipe and a 2.75" to " reducer then reused the oem 3" to 3.5" elbow at the intercooler.   Alighn all boots and tighten down the clamps.  

 

Note the position of the passenger side neg battery cable to the engine block.  I might have to redo this with a new longer cable, I have been meaning to anyways, but I haven't gotten to it.

 

I used a pfe 5/8" hose to replace the hard metal oil drain.  There is a larger diameter coupler near that block that you can insert the pfe hose into and clamp down to retain the drain connection to the block.  

 

20150619_172152_zpsow8xz2jm.jpg

 

Hard to see in the picture but run the other coolant line into the bottom of the turbo and T into the other heater core line.  Ensure you leave some space between the exhaust manifold and the coolant hose.   You might use zip ties or something similar to hold the hoses together.

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organicfarmer

organicfarmer

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Posted (edited)

NEAT! I think the VGT is the way to go...at some point i want to address the restricted exh. housing on my 04.5 ram & this would be a sweet turbo [or simular], the brains to run the vanes is what is the bugger.

 

 great article!!  :thumb1:

 

can you remove the silencer ring?

Edited by organicfarmer
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Me78569

Me78569

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Nope gonna leave it in as it is part of the compressor housing.  

 

I did hit a snag, I cannot find a machine shop that is willing to machine out the compressor housing so I am going to post the he300vg housing on ebay (correctly unlike the guy I bought it from) and try to get my money back, shouldn't be hard as I didn't pay much for it. 

 

 

Nick

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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What!! leave the silencer ring in?!   :cookoo:   You must have lost to much sleep!   :sleep:

My theory has been; TURBOS ARE MENT TO BE HEARD, BRO!   :nono:   :thumb1:

I have a hearing aid to the tune of 3K out of pocket expense and hearing loss that say otherwise resulting from listening to loud engines over the course of my life running them and both working on and around them. :2cents:

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organicfarmer

organicfarmer

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I AGREE the hx35 is TO loud [i never had a ring in mine]     NOW i have a quiet cr cummins & i just HAD to take the ring out so i could hear the turbo! just about right!  :thumb1:   :woot:

While i like diesel/turbo sounds, i always wear ear plugs when i'm in the field on my open station tractor, not as wearing on me  :)

 

IN REPLY TO ME---i see;, yes, if ring is part of housing.... yup! leave it in... no worries, just me  :)  :2cents: ....having fun  :tongue:

 

IN REPLY TO WILL BILL---3000 $  :ahhh:   :doh:   :broke:   wow! do your stuff , my wonderful earplugs!!!!!

 

Ok ok ,...i confess...when i put a turbo on my tractor the muf. didnt fit anymore... strait pipe!...but not for long!    :doh:   to much of a good thing!    :nono:

Edited by organicfarmer
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hex0rz

hex0rz

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Oh exciting! Can you make a YouTube video? Id like to see it in action. If I don't have a controller, couldn't I utilize the turbo by fixing it full open until I did? At least I could run it until then... You know. Btw, where's the pictures?

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