Need to remove Valve Body from 47RE trans

[rburks]

IS IT COMPLICATED JOB TO DROP VALVE BODY AND INSTALL 3-4 ACCUMULATOR 

 

I installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard.  So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA.

 

    So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an easy fix. According to what he told me via Dave Goerend that some of the 2ND Gen auto Trucks have this issue from factory, "No one knows why"but its something in the PCM,  but Dave Goerend has designed a Special Accumulator/solenoid to cure this. they do not install it on all trans cause only a few have this issue and if one doesn't  have this issue it can make the final 3-4 shift soft

 

   So i have to drop pan and valve body to install this part, Never really done much with auto transmission's and wondering is this pretty easy or do i need to find a shop to do this??

        He has already sent me the part Free,"no charge"  these Are Really Great People to deal with..

rburks

Edited June 10, 2015 by rburks

[CTcummins24V]

Could be 3-4 accumulator spring in valve body. When my transmission was stock it would slam into fourth gear and I dropped the tranny pan and took out the 3 to 4 accumulator spring in pieces. Cheap and easy fix.

Cascade transmission parts

[rburks]

Could be 3-4 accumulator spring in valve body. When my transmission was stock it would slam into fourth gear and I dropped the tranny pan and took out the 3 to 4 accumulator spring in pieces. Cheap and easy fix.

Cascade transmission parts

 

IDK,  They said this was a common issue with some auto tks.  Ken @ dynotec said that TC is re-locking at the same time as the 3-4 shift 

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

Removing the VB is pretty easy if you have basic mechanical skills. I say go for it. Biggest thing to remember is to keep it clean. I always power wash under the truck whenver I'm opening up a trans because I gaurantee you'll bump a crossmember or framerail and knock a chunk of dirt into the trans pan you just cleaned out.

[rburks]

Removing the VB is pretty easy if you have basic mechanical skills. I say go for it. Biggest thing to remember is to keep it clean. I always power wash under the truck whenver I'm opening up a trans because I gaurantee you'll bump a crossmember or framerail and knock a chunk of dirt into the trans pan you just cleaned out.

THANKS, thats a good point about pre washing under tk

[rburks]

OK, nick, i know your on here, What say you

 

I sure hat to mess up, but i think i can do it, its that park stem that everybody keeps mentioning  that worries me

Edited June 10, 2015 by rburks

[Wild and Free]

The park rod is the easy part I find getting the snap ring off the shift linkage rod a bit of a pain and then going straight down and then straight back up without popping out the seal  for the shift linkage shaft is the trick.

[rburks]

Oh crap,  now i don't know, maybe i better let somebody else do this

[dave110]

I had never even dropped a pan before I did it to install a shift kit. As stated above keep it clean and take your time and basic mechanics will get you through it  . I would loosen the screws and drop it slightly the night before because it will drip forever. Also make sure you have enough ATF. It will take more than just a regular pan drop and filter change.

[rburks]

I had never even dropped a pan before I did it to install a shift kit. As stated above keep it clean and take your time and basic mechanics will get you through it  . I would loosen the screws and drop it slightly the night before because it will drip forever. Also make sure you have enough ATF. It will take more than just a regular pan drop and filter change.

THANKS

[Greenlee]

I don't want to barge in but I have a question for anybody about automatic transmissions in Cummins trucks. I'm reading this topic to continue learning about Dodge trucks. How much horsepower can the 47RE be built to handle. Is there a list of other automatics that will work good with a Cummins engine. With good mechanical skills do members take on the task of building their own transmissions? What does the Gorend brand sell to beef a transmission up? Thanks and good luck with fixing your issue.

[Mopar1973Man]

Basically the input, intermediate, and output shafts are all billet shafts. Modified valve body. Multi-disc torque converter and a change of stall speed. There is other things done too... I would talk to Dynamic here on the site he also does custom transmissions. I'm trying to get him as a vendor...

[rburks]

I don't want to barge in but I have a question for anybody about automatic transmissions in Cummins trucks. I'm reading this topic to continue learning about Dodge trucks. How much horsepower can the 47RE be built to handle. Is there a list of other automatics that will work good with a Cummins engine. With good mechanical skills do members take on the task of building their own transmissions? What does the Gorend brand sell to beef a transmission up? Thanks and good luck with fixing your issue.

 

  Depending on what you put in them, doing mild-upgrades like better than stock TC & Valve Body Around 300-350. NOW With Triple Disk TC, Valve Body, Billet Shafts, updated rebuild kit with the later updates and Torrington Bearings=up to 600hp......

 you can probably find some threads on the Innerweb of people putting Allisions in there TK but its a pretty big job and you have to cut your truck floor pan up terrible.  

 Yes, Im sure you can find lots of information on here from members thats upgraded there own trans

 Goerend Builds and sells everything, They build there TORQUE CONVERTER, VALVE BODY, complete rebuild kits with all upgrades, Billet input and output shafts, They Used to Build complete Trans. exchange, But they've now have turned that over to "DYNOTEC" a company in Jordan, Minn

I Just installed one from them last year in my Truck, and i Love it. Dynotec and Goerend both are excellent to deal with.

Edited June 13, 2015 by rburks

[CTcummins24V]

 

Here's what my 3-4 spring looked like. It's not hard to do. Drop the pan, get oil everywhere, unless you have an aftermarket pan. Drop the filter, there's 4 or 5 screws on the the accumulator housing, you may need to move a wire out of the way. Hardest part is putting the spring back in the housing/plunger and getting a screw started because the spring puts pressure on the cover plate. See attached video 

 

[dave110]

I knew you could do it! Good job.

[Greenlee]

Goerend Builds and sells everything, They build there TORQUE CONVERTER, VALVE BODY, complete rebuild kits with all upgrades, Billet input and output shafts, They Used to Build complete Trans. exchange, But they've now have turned that over to "DYNOTEC" a company in Jordan, Minn

I Just installed one from them last year in my Truck, and i Love it. Dynotec and Goerend both are excellent to deal with.

[Greenlee]

 

 Goerend Builds and sells everything, They build there TORQUE CONVERTER, VALVE BODY, complete rebuild kits with all upgrades, Billet input and output shafts, They Used to Build complete Trans. exchange, But they've now have turned that over to "DYNOTEC" a company in Jordan, Minn

I Just installed one from them last year in my Truck, and i Love it. Dynotec and Goerend both are excellent to deal with.

I appreciate your post, sometime in the future I am going to go to an automatic. I am certain I will have it built or buy one from a builder. I'll check out Dynotec and Goerend for options

[Russ Roth]

Basically the input, intermediate, and output shafts are all billet shafts. Modified valve body. Multi-disc torque converter and a change of stall speed. There is other things done too... I would talk to Dynamic here on the site he also does custom transmissions. I'm trying to get him as a vendor...

 

 

I had Jon (Dynamic) build one for me a few months ago.  I gross about 16,000 with the toyhauler and no trouble holding on highway 26 to the OR coast although I have yet to tap the Comp.  I have no doubts it will hold what I throw at it.  Low stall triple disc and billet input.  Really like the way it works although the triple does make for a bit more noticeable shifts which is expected.  Would recommend him for sure.

[Greenlee]

I had Jon (Dynamic) build one for me a few months ago.  I gross about 16,000 with the toyhauler and no trouble holding on highway 26 to the OR coast although I have yet to tap the Comp.  I have no doubts it will hold what I throw at it.  Low stall triple disc and billet input.  Really like the way it works although the triple does make for a bit more noticeable shifts which is expected.  Would recommend him for sure.

Thank you Russ Roth for sharing this valuable information. I would like to hear your opinion on 24 valve vs newer CR 5.9 or 6.7 Cummins. My younger brother is in need of a good truck like mine, he also is a Cummins man who is starting a new job in a new location. I want to make a deal on mine to help him out. Now if I do this I will need another truck, an automatic. I am looking at 1999 to 2002 4-door Cummins/4x4. I have also priced some CR Cummins that range from 20K to 26K a little over what I want to spend. When I sold my Duramax I looked to the 24 valve because it seemed to be less cost to replace parts than a newer one. Every 24 valve I have looked at for sale that are in the best shape run from 13K to 26K and based on that you would need a big down if you monthly. What do you like about the 24 valve compared to a newer Diesel?

[dave110]

Personally I would not buy another 99. Mostly because of the rear drums and brain fart engineered inboard front rotors. It also seems most of the ECM issues are on 99's. And 53 blocks as well. I speak from experience. That said I would not want newer than 2002 because I don't want $$$$$$ commonrail injectors, $$$$$DPF's , and all the other $$$$$ computerized electronic headaches that I can't fix myself. That's why second Gen's are priced so high but you'll save in the long run.