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Strange ABS issues

Mopar1973Man
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Ok. Everyone knows I just replaced my front two ABS sensors. Here is what happening now. Start up roll out slow speeds less than 40 MPH the ABS and BRAKE lights remains off. Once I exceed 40 MPH they pop back on. I can pull over shut off the truck start up again and start rolling out and the light reset again. Once over 40 MPH it trips again. My old sensors works fine but had been broken in the leads. I solder and shrink tube then a few times and always was able to get the light back out. As for the rear speed sensor it dead on with my Garmin GPS so I really doubt I got a bad rear sensor.

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CTcummins24V

CTcummins24V

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Uh oh, I think those were the symptoms of my failing ABS module. I had those symptoms with those sensors I gave you and the new ones I got with both unit bearings. Do you know anyone with a fancy snap-on reader? If the abs module cycles with the reader on it, it's the module. Your old sensors never did this?

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Vais01

Vais01

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Ok. Everyone knows I just replaced my front two ABS sensors. Here is what happening now. Start up roll out slow speeds less than 40 MPH the ABS and BRAKE lights remains off. Once I exceed 40 MPH they pop back on. I can pull over shut off the truck start up again and start rolling out and the light reset again. Once over 40 MPH it trips again. My old sensors works fine but had been broken in the leads. I solder and shrink tube then a few times and always was able to get the light back out. As for the rear speed sensor it dead on with my Garmin GPS so I really doubt I got a bad rear sensor.

Not sure but what about the transmission output speed sensor? What is its condition?

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Uh oh, I think those were the symptoms of my failing ABS module. I had those symptoms with those sensors I gave you and the new ones I got with both unit bearings. Do you know anyone with a fancy snap-on reader? If the abs module cycles with the reader on it, it's the module. Your old sensors never did this?

 

The old ones worked fine as long as I kept soldering the wires back together. Possibly a bad sensor in the pile then?

 

Not sure but what about the transmission output speed sensor? What is its condition?

 

does the nv tranny have a speed sensor?

 

No speed sensor on the transmission. Just the rear diff and the 2 front axles sensors.

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Vais01

Vais01

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The old ones worked fine as long as I kept soldering the wires back together. Possibly a bad sensor in the pile then?

No speed sensor on the transmission. Just the rear diff and the 2 front axles sensors.

I would say that is a possibility. The wheel speed sensors are hall sensors so it is possible that one of the tone rings or sensors is not getting the correct reading. That is as long as the voltage input is correct so the magnetic field is accurate.

Does the speedometer function correctly over 40 when the ABS light appears?

Edited by Vais01
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Mopar1973Man

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I would say that is a possibility. The wheel speed sensors are hall sensors so it is possible that one of the tone rings or sensors is not getting the correct reading. That is as long as the voltage input is correct so the magnetic field is accurate.

Does the speedometer function correctly over 40 when the ABS light appears?

 

Speedometer is dead nuts with the GPS and never misses a beat. (Granted my speedometer is about 0.5 MPH off).

 

Possibly they are a touch to close or far away from the tone ring? Shimming? I seem to remember reading something about that somewhere before, a long time ago.

 

Now I left the shims just the way they were. There was 2 shims on the driver side and no shim on the passenger side.

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dripley

dripley

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Speedometer is dead nuts with the GPS and never misses a beat. (Granted my speedometer is about 0.5 MPH off).

 

 

Now I left the shims just the way they were. There was 2 shims on the driver side and no shim on the passenger side.

With 2 on one side and none on the other that would make me think there is enough difference in them that they might have to shimmed for proper spacing. Just thinking out loud. I saw alot of info on the net but not for your specific problem. but apparently the gap is pretty important.

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Mopar1973Man

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Just spent 2 days working on a motorhome rebuilding a A/C system on a 1985 Chevy G30. Now I can switch back the priority of getting my winter wood split and stacked in the shed. Maybe by the time snow starts to fly I can fix my ABS problem and flush my cooling system which is way over due.

 

post-1-0-97511300-1442519261_thumb.jpg

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Vais01

Vais01

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Just spent 2 days working on a motorhome rebuilding a A/C system on a 1985 Chevy G30. Now I can switch back the priority of getting my winter wood split and stacked in the shed. Maybe by the time snow starts to fly I can fix my ABS problem and flush my cooling system which is way over due.

DSCF3416.JPG

How far is "way overdue"?
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Mopar1973Man

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Being I use generic yellow coolants I tend to flush out about every 50k miles. I don't trust the quoted 100k miles on jugs. I've seen systems with 100k and they are all lime scaled up inside and radiator is the same way. Mine is still absolutely perfect inside the block and radiator yet. HOAT coolant I'm not will to jump into because its too hard to get locally. 90% of the stores and shops around me use generic yellow coolant and no issues and common to find.

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dripley

dripley

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Just spent 2 days working on a motorhome rebuilding a A/C system on a 1985 Chevy G30. Now I can switch back the priority of getting my winter wood split and stacked in the shed. Maybe by the time snow starts to fly I can fix my ABS problem and flush my cooling system which is way over due.

 

attachicon.gifDSCF3416.JPG

I don't know about the problems you dealt with, but that is one fine view. Not sure I have ever seen your property from that angle.

 replaced my water pump about 4.5 years ago? just prior to the new RV275's.

Edited by dripley
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