Steering upgrades: How easy are they?

[leathermaneod]

Hi all,

 

So I have always wanted to upgrade my steering to a sold tie rod setup, and to fix the popping/clunking noise my steering wheel makes when turned. I recently came across this page 

http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#crossover%20steering

and I would like to hear from guys who have done the 98-99 heavy duty steering upgrade on a 2000-01. Also from anyone who had done the Rock Solid Steering Bushing on the same year truck. It all sounds too good to be true and I'm wondering why these mods aren't more common if they are so great? Only bad thing I've heard about either is that the bushing for the Rock Solid Steering can get tight in cold weather and need to be sanded down. So let me hear your experiences with these mods! I am very excited to do them if they are worth it! Doesn't even seem like they'll be that expensive! 

 

[Me78569]

You can't put a 98-99 steering upgrade on a newer truck without recutting the knuckles to match the taper of the 98-99 setup. 

 

 

I would suggest you do a 3rd gen swap.  

as for how hard, it is really simple.  Just unbolt and rebolt.

[leathermaneod]

Hmmm ok I will look into that. This is exactly what I was looking for. The page I linked says the 98-99 will work on most 01's so that's why I'm a little confused. Seems like it works on some trucks but not all. Does the third gen setup always work? That's a shame I need the 3rd gen wheels. I may have to find out for sure if the 98-99 will work on my truck. The most attractive thing about this swap, to me, was how cheap it would be if I could use the 98-99 parts. Having to get 3rd gen wheels is going to really make it expensive...

[Me78569]

the 98-99 will bolt up to a later truck....BUT the taper is wrong.  yes it will bolt up, no you should not do it.  square peg round hole.  well slightly large hole slight smaller hole.  

 

 

It will make your steering not be as strong as they should be and creates a significant weak spot in the linkage.

[leathermaneod]

But based on that other page it sounds like some 00-02 trucks have the correct size taper for the 98-99 and some will have the correct for the 3rd gen. Is that not the case? Am I missing something? I have no intention of reaming out the holes, and it's not something I would even consider, just trying to figure this all out and get the correct parts. 

[dripley]

A lot of quirks in the 00-02 with changes made and ball joints is another story that fun.

[Me78569]

00-02 will not work with 98-99 setup and 98-99 will not work with 00-02 setup.  

 

 

I think there is a significant amount of "this guy over on that site, it worked on my truck" out there for the 00-02 guys running the 98-99 setup just because it will actually fit and bolt in place, but it doesn't fit the taper still.   

 

there is some weird stuff in the 00-02 like dripley said, but I am pretty sure dodge didn't use 2 different taper's in the 00-02 trucks.  doesn't make sense.

 

 

[leathermaneod]

Oh ok well thank you both for all the info. I think I misunderstood what you meant before. I thought you meant I would work but only possible if you reamed out the holes. I assume you actually meant it will literally bolt up just fine with no mods, just not fit properly and so be a big no no. This would explain how it "works" for some but not others. Some guys are content to make it work, while others, like you or I, want to do it right. Good news is, I found a thread on CF about a product from Synergy that will be released soon, and will be a direct bolt on kit for the 00-02 trucks and also have an option for the earlier ones. So I think I'll just wait for that. Then I don't have to get other wheels right now. 

 

Now I just need someone to chime in with info on the Rock Solid Steering bushing. 

Lol we are talking about the same thing on different forums.

[CTcummins24V]

I just upgraded to the 2010 "T" style linkage the other week on my 2001.5(4 wheel disc brake). Simple, eliminates bump steer, but it revealed my gear box is shot. The 2010 linkage will only fit 17" rims or taller, or aftermarket 16" rims with aggressive back spacing. I have aftermarket 16" rims with 4.5" backspacing. The tapers were the same on my truck. Also, you may run out of room on centering the steering wheel on a stock height truck. I have plow prep cols which lifted the front end about an 1". With that, the adjusting sleeve only had one more turn before the threaded tie rods were hitting in the sleeve. 

 

Edited April 21, 2016 by CTcummins24V

[leathermaneod]

6 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

I just upgraded to the 2010 "T" style linkage the other week on my 2001.5(4 wheel disc brake). Simple, eliminates bump steer, but it revealed my gear box is shot. The 2010 linkage will only fit 17" rims or taller, or aftermarket 16" rims with aggressive back spacing. I have aftermarket 16" rims with 4.5" backspacing. The tapers were the same on my truck. Also, you may run out of room on centering the steering wheel on a stock height truck. I have plow prep cols which lifted the front end about an 1". With that, the adjusting sleeve only had one more turn before the threaded tie rods were hitting in the sleeve. 

 

 

Thank you for the input! Truck looks great btw! That would definitely be an option for me except I really want to stick with stock alloy wheels for now. 

Btw do you guys know anything about the DOR steering upgrade? I'm trying to figure out how it differs from this new synergy setup...other than being a little pricey....

[Me78569]

I personally wouldn't give them any money.  Too many bad stories of bad customer service / shipping times / lost product / etc etc etc

[leathermaneod]

Thanks for the tip! Sounds like the best thing for me to do is wait on this new synergy setup. Just need to figure out the steering bushing now.

[notlimah]

@CTcummins24V What size tires you running? Truck looks real good! I've been tempted to get my wheels powder coated black and this pic isn't helping!

 

***edit*** nvm! I see it in your sig! How far do they stick out from the body?

 

@leathermaneod As far as the DOR steering upgrade is concerned, from what I understand the main difference between the synergy and DOR is going to be the type of ends the use. Synergy uses a more stock (but obviously beefier) design, where DOR is heim joints. Some people bring up the question of whether or not heim joints are even legal for road going vehicles (probably depends on state laws) and also question the comfort or those same joints. I've had no issues ordering from DOR and have received a couple different fairly quick emails from them in regards to questions I had. You just have to know/understand their a really small operation and Danny does everything, so he's got to pick his priorities/battles. All in all, if you were to order from them, I'd ONLY order parts that show in stock on their website. That should help you avoid really long wait times.

Edited April 21, 2016 by notlimah

[CTcummins24V]

Just now, leathermaneod said:

Thanks for the tip! Sounds like the best thing for me to do is wait on this new synergy setup. Just need to figure out the steering bushing now.

 

Determine if your bearing is shot first. Disconnect the steering shaft and shake the steering column in the engine bay for movement. I did the bushing upgrade, but my bearing wasn't that far gone, so it didn't gain much by replacing it. The steering gear box seems to be the biggest issue for me. I've gone through a redhead and a local remaned box. A borgeson is in the works for this summer. 

[leathermaneod]

1 minute ago, CTcummins24V said:

 

Determine if your bearing is shot first. Disconnect the steering shaft and shake the steering column in the engine bay for movement. I did the bushing upgrade, but my bearing wasn't that far gone, so it didn't gain much by replacing it. The steering gear box seems to be the biggest issue for me. I've gone through a redhead and a local remaned box. A borgeson is in the works for this summer. 

I will check the bearing. The reason I think it's bad on mine is because of the popping/clunking it makes in the column when turning the wheel. My only concern with the bushing is because of have heard of it really tightening up in cold weather.

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

6 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

I will check the bearing. The reason I think it's bad on mine is because of the popping/clunking it makes in the column when turning the wheel. My only concern with the bushing is because of have heard of it really tightening up in cold weather.

I installed a bushing about 4 years ago and it seemed to help some, but my bearing wasn't all that bad to begin with. 

Other than some light sanding initially to get the fit right I haven't had to touch it. No difference in cold weather. 

[leathermaneod]

1 minute ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

I installed a bushing about 4 years ago and it seemed to help some, but my bearing wasn't all that bad to begin with. 

Other than some light sanding initially to get the fit right I haven't had to touch it. No difference in cold weather. 

Where did you get the bushing?

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com

I believe it was from here. 

[leathermaneod]

Thanks!