oil pan removal on my 2001

[Frankstein]

Hello, I would like to know what I have to do for changing my engine oil pan? step by step!          Also do I need to remove the trans.?       Thanks

[Hawkez]

I would imagine that you would have to raise the motor and to do that the trans would have to be removed.  But, I am just assuming that is what you would have to do.

[Wild and Free]

I have done several over the years, one just needs to loosen the motor mount bolts enough to get the engine jacked up about 2-3 inches the mount saddles are slotted with a flare at the top I jack em up under the damper itself until the bolts hit the flare area which is all I have ever needed and then one can drop the pan down far enough to get your hand inside to unbolt the oil pump sump tube and drop it in the pan and it then slides out easily. This is on 4X4 models and no the trans doesn't need to be touched.

[Frankstein]

Thanks guys!!   The only thing I see is the adapter plate, where's the bellhousing bolts..  The oil pan need to drop a lot to clear it!!?? If I need to remove the adapter, I need to remove the trans.??

[Wild and Free]

If you do what I posted you have the room to clear it easy. Really it would clear without loosening the mount bolts and jacking it but then you do not have enough room to get your hand in to drop the sump pipe, one needs to do it so the the front axle is at full droop to get the needed clearance as well. I have only done them on a hoist so it is a lot easier but if one is young and determined the floor would work too.

Edited May 9, 2016 by Wild and Free

[leathermaneod]

So I've never done one of these, but I have an idea I've been thinking over that I'd like an opinion or two on. What if, instead of raising the motor, you left the truck on the ground and took all the bolts out. Then, took your new gasket and cut it so its one long piece. Next, after cleaning the surfaces, laid it in place on the pan and used small zip ties every other hole to keep it in place. Next, put some RTV at the cut. Now bolt the pan in place removing the zip ties as you install the bolts. Yes it's not exactly right, but this way you don't have to touch the pick up tube and don't have to lift the motor. What do you all think? Would it work? Am I crazy? Lol

[Wild and Free]

So you are just trying to fix a leaking oil pan gasket?

If so you are going to have a hard time getting the old gasket off the surfaces if it is stuck good not a lot of room without lifting the engine a bit which is only loosening of 2 bolts.

Then you would be able to clean things up a bit better and have a chance of getting the new gasket slipped through and under the sump pipe without cutting it.

Myself personally if I was that far the 2 bolts that hold the sump pipe on are easy and then one would know you have the oil pan clean as you will pretty much always knock dirt and gasket into the pan and then you can't clean it out unless you pull the pan.

Edited May 9, 2016 by Wild and Free

[leathermaneod]

That makes sense, you are right. That's why I wanted the opinion of someone who had done it before. Doesn't anything get stressed or hurt jacking the engine up that much without disconnecting anything? And where do you jack on? 

[Wild and Free]

Hurts nothing, I put the jack right under the damper and raise it, it only raises about 1.5-2 inches. If you look at the mount you will see the slots.

[leathermaneod]

So you raise it just enough that it is still in the mounts?

[Wild and Free]

Yep.

The mounts have a flare towards the top, I just loosen the bolts and then jack it up until it hits the flared spot that way you don't go too far.

[Dieselfuture]

I changed my front springs before and when i did i had my front end on the ground and lifted body up pretty high to get all of the tension out of the springs. pretty sure there was a lot of clearance between oil pan and axle. might help. 

[leathermaneod]

Well thank you very much for the advice. I'm going to reseal my vac pump and try snugging up the pan bolts first because the PO replaced the pan gasket, but I'll certainly keep all this in mind if I need to do it. Is there anything special to do with the pickup tube gasket?

 

I thought the cross member was the issue, not the axle?

Edited May 10, 2016 by leathermaneod

[Dieselfuture]

yes you're right about cross member, I spaced that one out. I guess what was mentioned before raise the engine up if you're going to attempt it. 

if I ever do it I might try the above, raise the engine. But if I have problems, I'm pretty good with a welder so I might cut it out and make brackets to bolt it back it. And it will defiantly be stronger then before. I always over do it. 

[98whitelightnin]

I just did mine a couple weeks ago and undid both motor mounts then raised the motor almost to the firewall. I didn't have to remove the pickup tube, it was actually pretty easy. 

[Mopar1973Man]

One day in the future I know I'll be changing a pan gasket too. It's nice to know either way will work and get the pan out.

[Wild and Free]

Not sure if the pickup tube is different from 12 to 24 v I have only done it on 24 v from my short term memory lol but I just feel safer by not going up so high just in case a slip happens, I don't want the engine landing on my arm or hand and smashing it between the engine and cross member, that's the primary reason I do it that way by keeping the mounts in place and just sliding it up in the slots after loosening the bolts .

Edited May 10, 2016 by Wild and Free

[Frankstein]

Thanks guys for your time and your tips!!!!     It looks relatively easy to do.     Did you just loose the motor mount bolts and jack the engine or you need to remove other parts??   loosing trans. mount... fan,fan shroud??? or other things

[Mopar1973Man]

Good questions... Bill???

 

[Wild and Free]

Just loosen the mount bolt on each side of the engine is all you need to do. Just watch the fan to shroud clearance, there should be plenty of room but never hurts to watch it. Everything has enough flex and clearance for the wee bit one is lifting the engine.