Cracked intake plenum eyelet

[leathermaneod]

lol why starting fluid and not brake cleaner?

[TFaoro]

I'm sure brake cleaner would be fine, but I always have starting fluid on hand!

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

I use brake clean. Ever notice that most starting fluid says "upper cylinder lubricant" on it? Makes me think it might leave an oil residue

[leathermaneod]

Gotcha! Yeah I kinda figured at $14.50 for a 4.5 oz can it seems like a scam. Although I did see a chart for the stuff that talks about active and inactive metals and that you need the activator when both items are inactive metals. And zinc is one of the inactive metals and I assume that's what my parts are plated with....but I'm not sure I want this to hold as well as it could because it says it could take tools and up to 600° to get it apart. 

[TFaoro]

10 minutes ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

I use brake clean. Ever notice that most starting fluid says "upper cylinder lubricant" on it? Makes me think it might leave an oil residue

I have seen it, but haven't had an issue using it yet. 5th gear was still on my transmission, and all of the paint is still on my motor  

[Royal Squire]

Maybe it was the starting fluid that caused your oil pan to leak!!

[TFaoro]

1 minute ago, Royal Squire said:

Maybe it was the starting fluid that caused your oil pan to leak!!

We don't talk about that! haha it was just lack of gasket maker.

[leathermaneod]

Roflol it is weird though how some things like that seem to leave residue and others don't. Like I just bough some new brake cleaner, CRC brand, and I hate it because it doesn't evaporate real fast like the autozone brand does. Btw I decided to get that activator stuff because I don't want to take any chances on that nut coming off and getting sucked into the engine. I'm not sure if it would fit though a valve or not, but I don't wanna find out.

[Haggar]

Leather,

You can't go wrong with the activator.  It speeds up curing time, and will help cure larger gaps.  The anaerobics harden when oxygen is not available.  The primer helps with a chemical reaction that removes free oxygen so it will harden.  

 

It is not needed for threaded connections, but it won't hurt.

 

GL!

Hag

[leathermaneod]

Thanks hag! Any idea how your supposed to use the activator? As in leave it wet when applying the loctite, or does it dry right away? I can't pick it up till tomorrow morning and I don't want to have any questions when trying to get things back together. I worked last night so I have off today and I wanna get everything done except for re installing the intake horn. Gota wait to do that tomorrow morning after I get the activator from Napa. I figured I should give that stuff 24hrs to dry so that puts me at Sunday morning before I can start it.

Edited June 17, 2016 by leathermaneod

[leathermaneod]

Hey guys, 

so ive got things apart and it seems that when I drove out the seal retainer, the locking ring gouged the seal retainer. I don't think it matters much, but I wanted to get some more opinions before I put it back together 

Ahould I file those off or anything? Or just leave them be?

Edited June 17, 2016 by leathermaneod

[IBMobile]

I'd file it smooth, get rid of that piece that can stab you and round it off.  

[leathermaneod]

Thanks. That's what I did then. Just a very light filing. 

[leathermaneod]

Well this is really frustrating . So I ordered that Klean an Prime stuff from Napa on the 15th. They told me it was coming from Boston and would be here this morning, the 18th. I went in to pick it up and, of course, not there yet, and it won't be until Tuesday. I was planning to use it and get that nut put on this morning, then give it 24hrs before putting everything back together and starting the truck. Looks like now I'll have to wait till Wednesday to be totally done. 

[notlimah]

Sorry to hear man. Nothing worse then waiting on parts that were promised at a certain time.

[leathermaneod]

Yeah it is what it is I guess. I always find myself in situations like this lol I've been learning to be patient with this truck. I normally don't mind waiting for stuff too much, but I really get annoyed when they tell me it will for sure be there at a certain time and then it's not. No explanation, it's just not. 

 

I though about just not using it, but I really don't want to have to worry about this nut coming off so I wanna do all I can to keep it on there. This is it btw, for anyone who isnt sure what I'm talking about.

Not sure if a nut that size could fit through a valve or not, but I sure don't wanna find out!

Edited June 18, 2016 by leathermaneod

[IBMobile]

If that nut came off it may not go into a cylinder right away but it could really nick up a valve and seat.  When the nut is on all the way do some of the stud threads show?  If they do I'd deform them after putting the nut on with the Loctite®.  If they don't show I'd run a die down the stud a couple of turns till they did.  Just more insurance to help keep that nut from falling off.  

[leathermaneod]

One of the valves/valve seats is probably messed up now already because when that piece broke off it got stuck in a valve according to the PO. The way it was before, the way the shop did it, the nut wasnt event totally on the shaft, and idk how they had it held on but it wasn't very had to get off. I needed a wrench, but It wasnt very hard. Maybe it really doesnt take that much to hold it on...but yes I can make it so that some of the threads show. Just not too much or the stud won't be long enough to get a nut on the top side to hold the horn on. I'm thinking it could only go on a thread or two past flush.... How would you deform the threads? There not much room to work down in there. I also have a top lock nut that I will be using in addition to the loctite 272 with Klean and Prime. 

I was thinking of tacking a weld on there to keep the nut from coming off. That might me easier than deforming the threads. Only issue is, I don't have a welder where I live, so Id have to wait till I go home in July. I was hoping this loctite should be good enough that, between that and the top lock nut, I wouldn't have to worry anymore. Do you think I should put a little spot weld on there when I can?

[IBMobile]

If you have some 90° needle nose pliers use them to squeeze the threads or if you have a good angle take a punch an tap the threads.

                                                    

[leathermaneod]

I'm really starting to wonder if I'm just worrying too much about this though. I mean, aren't there plenty of other places in an engine where it is just as critical, if not more, for a nut to not come off? Is there really any reason to think that loctite, plus the lock nut, shouldn't hold up? Only thing I can think that would hurt the loctite is the grid heater since its right there, but its rated for 450*....

Edited June 19, 2016 by leathermaneod