Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

White smoke


Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Power on the output of both relays when they click on?  

 

Test the wire going from the relay to the grid for continuity then check for continuity from ground to the pos lead to check for a break in the element itself.  

 

Yes only when they turned on, not constant.

 

How exactly do I do a continuity check?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah ok, easy enough.

 

I just checked it again but before I saw this video, it looks like I have constant power at the relays that are closest to the fender. I think the grids stop cycling before I could check the inner most ones. Does that sound right? Constant power on the outside relays then switch power to the inner posts to transfer power to the grid heater itself?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, finally got a chance to run through and check voltages and resistance explained HERE

 

I have too high a resistance on my heater element, right around .4-.5. I cleaned the terminals and it dropped it to maybe .3-.4 but still according to the article, it's too high. Everything else checked out ok until it came to checking voltage with the truck running and grids cycling. Voltage to one heater element terminal was just over 12v and the other was some ridiculously high number, like 300v or something. Does that indicate a bad relay? Just trying to decide it the relay needs to be replaced as well as the heater element as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea I'm sure they could be swapped. I'm just not sure they really NEED it just yet. The white smoke is only happening on cold, sat all night then starting up first thing in the morning starts. It's not struggling to start but it isn't happy but smooth's out after a few seconds. Once the temp gets up, it's running fine and I have no issues the rest of the day.

 

After checking the intake heater and relays this morning, it's obvious I'm not getting heat from the heater. Didn't even feel warm after being on for 20-30seconds, plus I'm clearly not getting correct voltage to one of the heater feed terminals.

 

So it seems like that's my main issue causing the white smoke or am I out to lunch on this one?

 

My plan is to replace the batteries as I think this winter has put them past the point of no return. Grid heater will get replaced. Still waiting for someone to verify if should replace the relays as well (anyone?!?!), and I'm going to go ahead and order this starter solenoid rebuild kit from Geno's and change out that so hopefully it'll revitalize my starter and this thing should be starting like nobody's business! haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update:

 

I just went ahead and got a new grid heater and relays. I couldn't really find a good answer as to whether both the heater and relays were bad so just replace them both.

 

Nice and shiney! 

IMG_4766.JPG.4b7eff037df2a942e4c455c3aaa743cf.JPG

 

Did my best to scrape off the remaining gasket but it was on there pretty good so took an exacto knife and some 600 grit sand paper once it was gone and cleaned up everything with the shop vac after and called it good.

 

IMG_4769.JPG.4465cf1af1a71d339c31b92b733576fb.JPG

 

Got everything else buttoned back up and all the wires swapped out for the relays.

 

IMG_4770.JPG.14bf1d0cfbfc7b23143715fcc9397ed6.JPG

 

Started the truck to check voltages and everything looked good. Had power where I needed it and it seemed like it was cycling. I noticed that only one post at a time had power at the grid heater and down at the ECM wire inputs. I assume that's normal as to not fry the relays?

 

Anyways, couldn't really feel it getting warm so I just have to assume it was working correctly. I'm also wondering given that my batteries are on their last leg if that's contributing to lower heat then normal?!

 

Either way I'll see how it acts up in the morning. If we have a smoke free start then problem solved, if not then it's time to start looking at other options.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea I'm definitely keeping an eye on the VP but it only has 60k or so and as long as the PO didn't beat it up too bad (fingers crossed!) it should hopefully hold out for a bit longer. Still no error codes.

 

The new grid heater and relays seem to have done the trick for the most part. Still not really cold temps but the white smoke was very little and didn't last nearly as long as before. It started easier then it did before so I think it was definitely not working correctly before. 

 

Still need to get new batteries and I want to get the starter rebuilt. I think that will really make a big difference!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the truck is still 'smoking' but it's more of a blue-ish color, maybe because of the 2stroke? Either way the truck still seems to be running fine, but I am a bit concerned that my fuel mileage is dropping a bit, so not sure if that points towards colder weather and winter fuel or injectors finally on their last leg. Either way I'll probably start looking into some rv275s so when the day comes (and it warms up) I can make the swap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, notlimah said:

Well, the truck is still 'smoking' but it's more of a blue-ish color, maybe because of the 2stroke? Either way the truck still seems to be running fine, but I am a bit concerned that my fuel mileage is dropping a bit, so not sure if that points towards colder weather and winter fuel or injectors finally on their last leg. Either way I'll probably start looking into some rv275s so when the day comes (and it warms up) I can make the swap.

It doesn't need to be warm to do injectors! :stirthepot: 

Run the engine until it gets to about 140*, then swap everything! It'll keep your hands warm while working on it and it'll start much easier than it would bone cold. I've done a LOT of parking lot injector changes :lol: 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll keep that in mind when I do end up swapping! I just need to decide what size to go with and whether I go VCO or SAC.

 

Unfortunately I have some other more pressing issues I want/need to take care of before I get to injectors so this probably won't happen any time soon, unless they really go bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...