My addiction

[jlbayes]

It is for my drive pressure gauge. Coiled to help reduce heat before going into the gauge. Yes, it is much better than what I had done previously lol

[jlbayes]

So it is back together and running for the moment. Idles butter smooth.

[rogerash0]

Awesome. Tell me why you run the stock intake elbow. I left mine on originally, figuring I'd get better charge distribution into the intake runner with higher velocity through the smaller intake elbow. Greater pressure drop from the elbow to intake runner.

 

How is that valve cover breather working for you, not too much oil coming out of it? What did going p-pump do for you initially, and what did it do for you after you got it dialed? I saw you sent it to TX for a 13mm spec.

 

Looks good

[jlbayes]

The stock horn is not the restriction in the system, the valves are. The vp heads also have a hump that blocks flow into the shelf. Never have seen a solid reason to change to another elbow other than propaganda.

 

The breather seems to be working fine. This engine is just wore out and needs a rebuild. It has oil vapor coming out most all the time. Stinky sitting in traffic but rolling down the road she is happy. I wanted more power than the vp could reliably or sensibly get to. Even with the first 12mm 180hp pump it was a night and day change. Low end smoke was nearly gone. Throttle response was better. It also made 70ft lbs more torque on the dyno. Same setup other than the pump, same dyno as well. I was a bit surprised. The 180 was never dialed into full potential. Too busy fighting other stuff on the truck.

 

That brings me to my adventure Saturday with it. After the abysmal failure on the dyno a couple weeks ago I decided to go hunting on what was wrong. After talking with a couple people I came to the conclusion I needed to check tdc and the crank gear. A buddy and I stripped the front cover off and all that was happy. No slipped gear and set tdc with a mark on the balancer for later use. While doing so I happened to notice the lower radiator hose appeared to slidding off the end of the nipple. The clamp was displaced. Odd as it was I adjusted the clamp......well as soon as I released tension on the spring clamp coolant spat out of the lower hose. YAYYYYY......grabbed the hose...hard as a rock....so I grabbed the upper. Same thing. Granted at this point the truck had not been run in over 6 hours. So it is time for another head gasket and better studs.

From the dyno day.

[Mopar1973Man]

44 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

The stock horn is not the restriction in the system, the valves are. The vp heads also have a hump that blocks flow into the shelf. Never have seen a solid reason to change to another elbow other than propaganda.

 

Thank you for that bit of information.

[rogerash0]

My radiator hoses stay hard as a rock, without a doubt even if the truck hasnt been on in 6 hours. I always wondered why. Once while my motor was still fairly cold, not up to temp, I turned into the gas station & popped the rad cap to check coolant level because I was going on a long trip. To my surprise coolant went everywhere like it was hot, except the coolant wasnt hot. Maybe luke warm at best. Does this mean I have a head gasket leak on my new motor with the arp 625s and o-rings?

 

What's a p-pump conversion typically cost, and who's the best to get parts from? I know you probably have circles of people with the parts, so you wouldnt go through a distributer, but if you did I assume it would be someone like Sheid

Edited October 9, 2017 by rogerash0

[Mopar1973Man]

Make sure you doing the P-pump conversion for the right reasons. I would highly suggest the conversion for racing and performance reason but not as a daily driver reason. 

[rogerash0]

Agreed; I dont know a lot about it, or how they run, but based off the mass of reading I've done, they sound like they run a bit rougher and smokier overall, and a ton harder. I was surprised to hear jlbayes say it ran cleaner off idle, but Im sure it's all in the pump setup. I like to think dynamic timing is my friend and the vp44 is a good DD.

Edited October 9, 2017 by rogerash0

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

 I like to think dynamic timing is my friend and the vp44 is a good DD.

 

Absolutely. Most all people the convert to P-pumps are in the performance crowd looking for bigger power than the VP44 can produce. This typically comes at a price of reduced MPG's. A lot of people do the conversion to try and rid the electronics but end up reducing MPG and giving up on the truck and selling it. I've run into several people like this which did the conversion for the wrong reasons end up selling the truck because it was no longer a good daily driver or reliable. 

 

There are other things like on my truck with fly by wire cruise control you would lose the cruise control function completely. So if you do convert you have to remember there is a lot of weird details that will pop up because of the VP44 being missing.

[jlbayes]

This was most definitely building pressure in the cooling system. Darn near had the lower rad hose pushed off. Oh and found a bunch of trash in the coolant bottle after I drained it yesterday. She's hurt.

 

 

I have a ton of money wrapped up in my swap but it works without fail. Schied is a good option as well as Haisley. Crazy carls sells a kit but the case's were aftermarket. Idk if he has switched back yet or not. Best way is to buy a worn out engine and use the majority of parts. Buy the injection lines, apps kit and potentially the cam sensor adapter if 01-02. I highly recommend an adjustable gear as well.

 

I did the swap for power. Straight up. And it delivers. There has not been a vp truck around here that will touch it. Cruising egts never changed nor did fuel mileage. WOT did but that was related to pump setup. When this thing cooperates it is a monster. I couple buddies were in it last year before it bent the pushrods and were speechless after. One had the shakes after we got back.

Edited October 9, 2017 by jlbayes

[rogerash0]

Haha, that's pretty cool. Sounds like the only way to get CR-like performance out of a 24v (ok, I know, it wont be like a CR). Since you got yours running so well, can you comment on the amount of effort or time it took you to make it what you wanted?

 

Do you think there is more to be gained of the VP by not letting WOT pressures drop down to 10-12psi? Mine drops from 18 to 13-12 at WOT with only 50hp injectors. Even lower around 1/4 of gas. Even lower with 125hp injectors.

Edited October 9, 2017 by rogerash0

[TFaoro]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

There are other things like on my truck with fly by wire cruise control you would lose the cruise control function completely. So if you do convert you have to remember there is a lot of weird details that will pop up because of the VP44 being missing.

That WILL be fixed when I get off my lazy butt.

 

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

I was surprised to hear jlbayes say it ran cleaner off idle, but Im sure it's all in the pump setup.

If you know how a Ppump works, it shouldn't be too surprising. They reference fueling off boost, so you can cut the fuel down to near nothing when there's no boost.

9 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Haha, that's pretty cool. Sounds like the only way to get CR-like performance out of a 24v (ok, I know, it wont be like a CR). Since you got yours running so well, can you comment on the amount of effort or time it took you to make it what you wanted?

 

Do you think there is more to be gained of the VP by not letting WOT pressures drop down to 10-12psi? Mine drops from 18 to 13-12 at WOT with only 50hp injectors. Even lower around 1/4 of gas. Even lower with 125hp injectors.

I'm sure @jlbayes has taken forever to dial his in.....  

For me it didn't take long with AFC Live. I know jlbayes hates the guys who build it, but for me it was the right choice. Setting the off idle fuel took about 20 (driving around and adjusting back and forth)

Setting AFC Live takes about 10 min, and I can turn it down to tow anything I want without blowing the drivetrain apart.

I highly doubt you'll see a difference with higher fuel pressure.

[rogerash0]

Thats neat, I had no idea it had a reference line.

[Mopar1973Man]

40 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

That WILL be fixed when I get off my lazy butt.

 

Along with the other stuff that prevented you from coming to the "Eclipse" event? 

[jlbayes]

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Haha, that's pretty cool. Sounds like the only way to get CR-like performance out of a 24v (ok, I know, it wont be like a CR). Since you got yours running so well, can you comment on the amount of effort or time it took you to make it what you wanted?

 

Do you think there is more to be gained of the VP by not letting WOT pressures drop down to 10-12psi? Mine drops from 18 to 13-12 at WOT with only 50hp injectors. Even lower around 1/4 of gas. Even lower with 125hp injectors.

 

I cannot as it is still not done. It has snowballed fast since I went to compounds. Almost makes me want to slap a single charger on it and enjoy the truck. Horse power is a ton of work.

 

I do only from the aspect of longevity. Perceived high inlet pressure will not gain you anything in the hp department with a vp.

 

@TFaoro you mean those clowns over at PDD that do not have an original thought in their heads? Copy and steal everything they can find. The only thing they know how to do is capitalize on others hard work. U.C.C. proved that. LOLOLOLOL

Edited October 9, 2017 by jlbayes

[TFaoro]

3 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

 

@TFaoro you mean those clowns over at PDD that do not have an original thought in their heads? Copy and steal everything they can find. The only thing they know how to do is capitalize on others hard work. U.C.C. proved that. LOLOLOLOL

BUT the product works for me....

I'm not disputing the rest  

[Mopar1973Man]

2 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Do you think there is more to be gained of the VP by not letting WOT pressures drop down to 10-12psi?

 

No. Blue Chip even proved that fuel pressures down to 5 PSI will not affect horsepower production on a dyno. I will say that anything below 14 PSI is affecting the longevity of the VP44. 

 

37 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

Perceived high inlet pressure will not gain you anything in the hp department with a vp.

 

Correct... 

[jlbayes]

@rogerash0 there is a fuel flow diagram floating around here or the interwebs showing the internal vane pump. It over rules whatever you try to feed into the vp. 

 

 

Quit trying to get me all riled up @TFaoro 

[Me78569]

must be a tps issue then.

[Mopar1973Man]

47 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

@rogerash0 there is a fuel flow diagram floating around here or the interwebs showing the internal vane pump. It over rules whatever you try to feed into the vp.

 

The internal vane pump does increase pressure internally to the VP44 but at the same token you take the risk of blowing the front seal out of the VP44 dumping diesel fuel in the crankcase. Matter of fact I just talked to a guy yesterday about that and he admitted that had a partial blockage of the FASS return line and fuel pressure went to 32 PSI and at that point blew the front seal of the VP44 out.