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BobTheRepairMan

NO BUS NO START NOW NO CRANK? HELP PLEASE

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Hello fellow cummins nuts,

this week my truck has made me feel mentally challenged, started with edge not connecting but truck started and ran, then it went to a no bus and i could still read codes which it had none, Today the truck will not crank, OBD2 will not connect, batterys good, checked the PDC box in the main fuse box and it has ground (Encountered no ground there before)

i am puzzled as to where to look right now and im also having issues opening links to moparmans 2001 wiring diagrams, Ive searched this issue and clicked on them with a page not found every time.

Dash lights work headlights work gauges appear to not work as it reads 0 volts, 

 

My thoughts are ecm has no power or no ground and i know this has to be a simple :doh: 

 

ANY insight or ANY working wiring diagram links for the engine compartment particularly the wiring from PDC to ECM and PCM would be hugely appreciated i'm curently trying to track every ground on block and chassis and clean it in hopes

 

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Start by testing your ground and power leads to the ecm and PCM.  

 

No crank leads me to believe that there is something very basic wrong.  It might be hard to find but I would guess easy to fix.

Edited by Me78569
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truck fired up i opened the fuse box up and tested ground for that little power bus or whatever it is, in fuse panel its called inline 6. made a jumper wire and grounded it, no bus, primed injectors and it coughed to life! (relief)

 

Now i have a new issue where the FASS titanium 150 has maxed my pressure gauge out to 30?! never ever had this happen, air in lines would cause it to be lower wouldnt it? running a isspro mechanical

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Explain your jumper wire... The PDC under the hood doesn't have any ground connections except inside which requires you to split the case open. The fuse panel in the cab has no grounds that I know off.

 

FASS fuel pressure is because the return line is either kinked shut or the ball and spring is malfunctioning. 

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This might not be related but when I first bought my truck, it had the "NO BUS" message and dead gauges. Under the hood, inside the fuse box, there is a large electrical connector held down with a bolt.

 

Mine was a bit loose, and a bit corroded. I had to clean it up and tighten. Brake cleaner (not carb cleaner!) works alright for cleaning electrical contacts, but will not prevent future corrosion.

 

Do not over tighten. Mine is stripped and I have to hold my tongue right to get it perfect and snug. This fixed it for me.

 

The only other time I saw this was when I had my HID's in without capacitors/error cancellers. I can't really explain that one, and I had to switch back and forth between regular bulbs and HID's and halogen about 5 times because it couldn't believe that was actually the problem. Some weird noise issues from the ballasts.

 

 

Edited by kzimmer

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On 6/24/2017 at 4:40 PM, BobTheRepairMan said:

Hello fellow cummins nuts,

this week my truck has made me feel mentally challenged, started with edge not connecting but truck started and ran, then it went to a no bus and i could still read codes which it had none, Today the truck will not crank, OBD2 will not connect, batterys good, checked the PDC box in the main fuse box and it has ground (Encountered no ground there before)

i am puzzled as to where to look right now and im also having issues opening links to moparmans 2001 wiring diagrams, Ive searched this issue and clicked on them with a page not found every time.

Dash lights work headlights work gauges appear to not work as it reads 0 volts, 

 

My thoughts are ecm has no power or no ground and i know this has to be a simple :doh: 

 

ANY insight or ANY working wiring diagram links for the engine compartment particularly the wiring from PDC to ECM and PCM would be hugely appreciated i'm curently trying to track every ground on block and chassis and clean it in hopes

 

 

Sounds like the pins are pushed out of the obd II port, Or they are spread.

 

15 hours ago, kzimmer said:

Do not over tighten. Mine is stripped and I have to hold my tongue right to get it perfect and snug. This fixed it for me.

 

The only other time I saw this was when I had my HID's in without capacitors/error cancellers. I can't really explain that one, and I had to switch back and forth between regular bulbs and HID's and halogen about 5 times because it couldn't believe that was actually the problem. Some weird noise issues from the ballasts.

 

 

 

2 things.

 

1 - that connector/bolt is not stripped. I has a special nut to keep it from being over tightened.

 

2 - a relay harness for hids is needed to keep the noise out of the harness. If you ever wanted to go back to them.

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4 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

 

Sounds like the pins are pushed out of the obd II port, Or they are spread.

 

 

2 things.

 

1 - that connector/bolt is not stripped. I has a special nut to keep it from being over tightened.

 

2 - a relay harness for hids is needed to keep the noise out of the harness. If you ever wanted to go back to them.

 

Then my special nut is stripped, haha. I can turn it with my fingers and it barely bites. That's good info though, I didn't know that.

 

I definitely had the harness installed, with relay. Had to be ballast noise.

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1 minute ago, jlbayes said:

1 - that connector/bolt is not stripped. I has a special nut to keep it from being over tightened.

I have always thought that is how that bolt was designed. I just pulled mine apart and it appears to be the bolt that is special. It is threaded only on the end. Above the threads the shaft is narrower so when you tighten it the threads just go all the way thru the nut. I guess that prevents over tightening. Not sure I could spin it with fingers but it spins easily with a screw driver.  

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1 hour ago, kzimmer said:

I definitely had the harness installed, with relay. Had to be ballast noise.

 

Well crap. I've had two sets of hids with harnesses installed between trucks. No weird business. Now when I had a set in my grand prix....no relay harness....all kinds of noise in the audio system. 

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7 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

 

Well crap. I've had two sets of hids with harnesses installed between trucks. No weird business. Now when I had a set in my grand prix....no relay harness....all kinds of noise in the audio system. 

 

Yeah that makes sense. It was ridiculous. I've put about 6 sets in different vehicles and have never had this issue. My old grand cherokee actually had brights and dims, 4 ballasts, no relays, and no troubles. That's why I disconnected/reconnected these ones half a dozen times, I still barely believe it, haha.

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Now that i think of it im not sure why my truck hasnt had an electrical fire, the wire i grounded goes from that box to the start relay control circuit. made the NO BUS go away. Wires black and white and i cant find a wiring diagram of the fuse box and relays everything within. 

 

I recalled having done that last year and it made my edge work it had been failing to connect and start, hadnt had a no bus issue before, ever. i rechecked that looking for any pulled pins in fuse box and just made a better more sealed connection with longer wire, figured battery pulled it out. 

 

Edge still does not connect and yes i had a old kinked return line with dried cow dung covering it. got a spool of 1/2" fuel line so i can make it more gooder. 

 

Bottom line truck runs fine now i have to do head and IP return seals, has ANYONE replaced with regular JIC at the T and use regular SAE banjo fitting to rid them selves of dodges failed attempt at hydraulics? Im thinking when i pull the return banjo in back of the head im going to see if i can replace it with something of more quality, I very cleanly replaced the washers last year and O ring hose BS in the T fitting and i still have a leak UNDER LOAD ONLY 

 

Apologies for long drawn out sentences long day im rambling now eating and then showering in my sleep, thank you all for replies and input, I'll be back.

On 6/25/2017 at 6:21 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Explain your jumper wire... The PDC under the hood doesn't have any ground connections except inside which requires you to split the case open. The fuse panel in the cab has no grounds that I know off.

 

FASS fuel pressure is because the return line is either kinked shut or the ball and spring is malfunctioning. 

 Im referring to splitting it open and the wire that goes from control circuit of start relay, very first one i think, goes into bottom of that box thats bolted down. I can double check stuff tomorrow im hittin the hay, again thanks all

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