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slipped my clutch.

Killer223

By Killer223
in 3rd Generation Dodge

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Killer223

Killer223

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while i wait for someone at SB to call or email me back... yeah not happy about that either...

i noticed something, in the morning when the trans fluid is nice n cold thick like honey, it shifts great at a stop, idle, what have you. but after the trans has been driven 5 or so miles, it starts acting up.

food for thought.

anyhow i'm only at roughly 25K on this oil, but i'm going to swap to a different one yet again, might even mix some,

i have 2 qts amsoil MTG, and 2.5 swepco 711, i'm look around this weekend for some mobile 50, if i'm unable to locate some i'll just get more amsoil form local Napa.

it'll also be a good time to install my TDS pto cover to help in the cooling. then i might weld some fins on the other side away from the exhaust.

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Killer223

Killer223

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here's a thought, should i fallow the manual and change at or around the 60K miles? or being that i changed to a gear oil not the ATF+4 push it out further?

local trans shop suggest i change at 25K beings that i tow my 5'er with this truck.

What got me into the Swepco oils is back in my auto cross days my grandpa told me of it. and most of the Porsche driver say it's one of the best you can use. it's great oil for the RX7 and RX8 gear boxes, the 202 in the dif's

i started using them back in the 90's in my dirt bike and sprint car racing.

i'll give my uncle a call and ask about the 202's use in the G56. i know it needs to be a GL-4.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Killer223

Killer223

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And the Saga continues, Talked with SB, they sent me a new pressure pate, Even though i think it's the pilot bearing issue, Well the new pressure plate did not solve the problem. still won't go into gear at idle, and the problems get's worse when it get's hot.

So R&R again, put stock DMF LUK clutch back in, truck shifts like a dream again. SB is refusing to help me out. stating it's not an issue with their clutch. well. i don't see it that way. How come the factory LUK one works great? it's a different pilot bearing design.

 

So i'ma have to make a call to my CC and do a charge back. i'm not paying 1200 for defective clutch.

this is what pisses me off people. i'm now just shy of $2G in clutch and R&R to get my stock clutch back.

 

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Killer223

Killer223

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Well everything "Looks" ok. until you start measuring. the machining for the pilot bearing is not centered.

Can't go into to much detail yet, as i have already contact my CC company., but it's not correct, and if SB will replace this then i'll reverse the CC charge back, but right now i have to wait.

Bearing is smooth but has resistance, likely it's fine,

flywheel.jpg

9 hours ago, AH64ID said:

Wow, that really sucks!

 

What is the pilot bearing issue?

The issue is it drags on the input shaft, not letting the clutch freespin, it' keeps the input shaft turning, ergo making it hard to shift into gear at idle and as you can see from my video posted on the 21'st, impossible to get R without shutting truck off first.

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Killer223

Killer223

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Well i had a flywheel machined. RNR the trans AGAIN!!! and had the SB flywheel checked thinking maybe my micrometer could be off. well it wasn't. they had some damage on the Flywheel that i didn't really think anything of, it set a high spot of 20 thousandths, So then when they bored the pilot bearing hole it was at a angle of 20 thousandths off and off kilter and to one side by a few thousandths.

So now i have my custom machined flywheel, my southbend okhd friction disk, and the new pressure plate they had sent.

truck drives perfect again. and i don't have to worry about slipping the LUK clutch if i up the power.

i'm happy,

But now it's time to see what SB will do. if they still push back that nothing is wrong, i'll never use or recommend them to anyone.

IMG_7252.JPG

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