VP44 PSG5 limitations read/write

[jlbayes]

I've found they return way to much fuel in an effort to keep the pump motor cool.

[Mopar1973Man]

6 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

there is a pos and neg lead going to the battery,

 

Bad idea... Nothing should ever be hooked to the battery terminals. 

 

Both batteries are clean of any leads other than stock.

 

All aftermarket accessories. Are hooked up here. Never hook to the black lead if the alternator fuse blows it will produce high voltage that will let the "magic smoke" out of any device hooked to that black lead. 

 

The prevents the battery acid from attacking all the terminals. Also, this does produce a big ol' hairy looking terminal that gets tore up from jump cables. 

Edited August 18, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[rogerash0]

I noticed the other day after a nominal amt of driving in town that the AD200 motor was so hot I could barely keep a finger on it. Makes me think it'll fail. I have the original 100 motor, the new 4G 165 motor, and the 200 motor they sent me as a warranty to try to fix the pressure drop. What would be the smartest way to regulate return, a 1/2" needle valve?

Thanks moparman, I'll get some stuff moved over to that terminal then. I do have way too much crap on the batt terminals, I need an expandable block (or whatever they're called again) badly. Just another thing on the to-do list.

[Mopar1973Man]

1 minute ago, rogerash0 said:

What would be the smartest way to regulate return, a 1/2" needle valve?

 

No. Can't use a fixed orifice. The old style spring and ball were the best design. The new adjustable style doesn't work because the regulator pin hangs up and sticks. 

[rogerash0]

That's why I switched to the non-adjustable original AD100 base. I forgot the spring and ball were in the return port.. that's how I adjust my operating inlet pressure. I have two new springs from AD that I havnt tried yet. I cut down one of the original springs down that was giving me 25psi. I meant to try the other ones, because Im sure the ball isn't liking the pokey, non-rounded end of the spring too much. I was pretty unimpressed when AD told me to use my original non-adjustable base; I was hoping to sell the unit to return some coin. I ended up keeping it on there b/c the ports on the fittings are bigger, and because the adjustable ADII base sounded like it was sucking air in at times thru the regulator/adjustor assembly. I didn't trust it. Sometimes I would adjust it and I would hear a big woosh like it was sucking a ton of air in, and it would jump from say 23-24psi straight to 40psi when the vacuum sound would come on. It didn't seem like it worked well. They also told me the original non-adjustable base design was better suited for VP trucks. Overall super unimpressed with the Airdog..

Edited August 18, 2017 by rogerash0

[Dieselfuture]

Part of reasons I'm using fass now is air dog didn't give me time of the day to answer simple questions I had when my ad went to crap, just kept saying we can send you another pump out and overnight it if you want. Complete joke, fass has my money now. But I don't have too many miles on fass so I can't say one way or another. It is definitely much bigger, and I did have a pressure problem with it when first installed so I called fass and they sent me a new spring and ball, modified spring a little and put new ball in been good for few years now, still on original filters too maybe close to 20k on them now, not going to change them ether till pressure flactuation or they rot out.

@Mopar1973Man is it strictly because of acid corroding terminals or there is other reasons, I think some hook things to alternator too. I got all my crap on batteries but keep them clean so no worries there, I think this been talked about before. 

Edited August 18, 2017 by Dieselfuture

[jlbayes]

There is a reason neither system is on either of my trucks any longer LOL

[Mopar1973Man]

FASS isn't without its issues too. I've seen FASS blowing fuses in under 10k miles. Pump motor failures as well. The other problem because of pure size is trying to mount out of the damage path of the front tires. I've seen a few filters now damaged by flying debris from the front tires. So FASS isn't perfect either. 

[Dieselfuture]

Piece of floormat to protect filters might work, as for motor burning out I did asked fass if they used same tiny seal to keep fuel from going it motor like AD and he wouldn't tell me. 

[rogerash0]

What's good then JL? 

Also I spoke with a nice lady at F1 Diesel and they recommend the Mach 4's for me. Those are 150hp. They are on the shelf Rdy to ship anytime. $1000+$200 core. 7 hole sac , she spoke with Don and he said there are no marine nozzles for VP trucks. Shipping is $20. It's $500 for me to buy Mach 2's and have them enlarged to Mach 4's she said. She was leaning towards 2's for a minute because of the towing I do. I said I can probably go slow over the passes in third gear locked around 50mph and not have egt's too high, even with the Mach 4s. I have her my build specs and so fourth. I have someone buying my camper very soon so it's possible I could fund these and sell the DDPs on FB. Im gonna pop the DDPs back in and see how they run. I'd like to do a back to back test with them against the Mach 4's.

[Mopar1973Man]

47 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Piece of floormat to protect filters might work

 

Not hardly... I've seen some owner put aluminum boxes around the filters and have objects strike the box hard enough to dent the box and the filter still. 85 MPH and a tire picks up an object and throws it's going to be a missile. 

 

If you are using your truck offroad and hook the box or guard it will still take the filters right off. As some of the local ranchers have done as well.

[jlbayes]

I would follow F1's recommendation on the injectors. Theirs (F1) typically perform well above the traditional thoughts on hole size.

 

I am about mechanical pumps now. Belt driven or geartrain driven.

[rogerash0]

I read Quadzilla's site and I saw nothing about sensor input / support. Will I be able to utilize my pressure sensors in the exhaust manifold and inbetween turbos?

[jlbayes]

Are they 5v reference sensors? Round 3 pin deal?

[rogerash0]

Yep that's them.

[rogerash0]

I have some big questions I hope you guys can help me on. First I'll show where & how I found this "cap" in the PCM harness. It seems like its a homebrew 1/2" CPVC cap that someone has neatly filled in. It's got black going to black, solid green from the cap going to green with white stripe in the PCM harness, and a white lead out of the cap going to a green with white stripe in the PCM harness. See images: Cap1, Cap2, Cap3, Cap4, Cap5, Cap Green and Black, Cap White Wire.

 

I also have a Tranny Mystery image, a Tranny Tap image, and finally a PCM Tap image. 

 

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks

[jlbayes]

The brown wire in the middle pcm connector? It is for the 3-4 shift, basically a lockup switch for overdrive.

 

The tcase plug is the vacuum switch for the front axle actuator.

 

Brown wire in the trans connector is for 3-4 solenoid as well.

[Mopar1973Man]

Need to ditch all that noise filter junk return the electrical back to stock. Wiring map is here on the site. Should be fairly straight forward. Be aware there might be voltage regulator for the transmission and a resistor mod present. I know this makes it tough but half of all electrical issues are from poor modifications.

[rogerash0]

Do you know where the voltage regulator for the tranny and resister mod would exist? I tried an external voltage regulator when I was having alternator issues but pulled it back out.

 

With those brown wires tapped, is a switch that hooks them up all I need to have the lockup command capability? Im interested in it because, for example, today my engine was up to normal operating temp, and I went to pass without realizing I was at 48-49mph, and as soon as I stepped into it I hit 50 mph, TC locked, and the truck bogged like hell. Putting out a big cloud of black, with the 50hp injectors Edge on lvl 7 lowend on 3 timing on 2. That type of thing drives me nuts. It also bogs in third with OD off when it engages at 30mph. Surely it shouldnt bog as it does..

 

All this wiring non-sense started as I cleaned the cluster **** of wires above the trans, trying to make sure my TV cable is set right. It was bent around pretty bad in a ziptied wire bundle, but the truck still drives the same with the mess undone. Im convinced the TV isnt set right. I took pics of the cable & TV lever down by the trans with the pedal floored and at resting positon. I dont know if that would be helpful to show you guys?

 

Basically I still had half an inch of throw in the TV lever/cable with the pedal to the floor. I do have a floor mat in the truck, but thats it. So my next step was to pull the APPS cover and try to  adjust the cable. Am I on the right track there? I feel so clueless sometimes :\

 

Ultimately my truck stack shifts 3rd and fourth. When It goes into third it seldom rests in third for more than a brief moment without going into fourth.

From my notes, roughly a year ago:

12mph - 2nd gear shift

21mph - 3rd gear shift

26 mph - 4th gear shift

I can coast down to 20mph and the truck remains in 4th gear.

 

After fixing a ton of stuff on the truck, sensors blah blah, today it did:

12mph - 2nd gear shift

24mph - 3rd gear shift

26 mph - 4th gear shift

 

I think if I could get it to rev out in the gears more, my smoke problem would be considerably less. All the time Im crusing in 4th gear at low RPMs and I gotta put my foot 1/2 way into it to make it downshift, and it goes right to 2nd gear.

 

Thanks guys

Edited August 22, 2017 by rogerash0

[jlbayes]

Man, I have not seen one stack a shift that early. For sure some of your smoke issues. Another problem.....lock  up and od are both pcm controlled.... @Dynamic would be a better source on the stack shift issues than I. I have always locked out od in my green truck due to turbocharger setups (large). It would pull through 3rd locked though.

Edited August 22, 2017 by jlbayes