Making new battery cables

[WiscoRedkneck]

Looking at what I have here from Larry and what I have seen at Napa they look and feel the same but the nut that pulls it tight is different otherwise if you set them next to each other you can't see a difference.  The bolts also fit tight. The nuts I will probably change, after doing some research it seems like Larry was selling some junk for awhile and now it's gotten better but I will only know for sure when I get this thing put together.

The only thing that's confusing me right now is the negative cable crimps are a little small

Edited December 31, 2017 by WiscoRedkneck

[dripley]

Thing I like about them is not having to take them off every time you need to disconnect the batteries. 

[WiscoRedkneck]

I'm about to order my new alternator and I'm looking at a couple of high output units and was curious what you guys think/have experience with.

Also I am trying to eliminate the dimming headlight issue which is why I'm looking at higher output alternators and most seem to be completely new units, curious if you guys think that will fail to help headlight issues.

 

Here are the two I'm looking at

https://www.xtremediesel.com/Mean-Green-1339-High-Output-Alternator.aspx

I'm leaning more towards the second one

https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm

It seems a like they actually know what they changed with actual test results versus just saying it's output and nothing about what you have done to improve it.

[GSP7]

Id go with national starter and alt.

I will get a new denso starter from them next time my napa one dies

[dripley]

I am leaning towards the Nations for my next one. I dont think either will get rid of the lights dimming. The grids are still pulling more than the alternator is putting out especially at idle. The Nations uses the same pulley as the OE does but I am not sure about the Mean Green. Some of the high output alternators come with a smaller pulley for better idle output. Most likely will have to replace the serpentine belt with the smaller pulley. 

[WiscoRedkneck]

Good thought on the pulley size didn't even consider that, I was leaning towards Nations so at this point I'm just going to order from them and see what I get.

I kinda thought this would not fix the dimming headlight issue but we can still hope right 

[GSP7]

oops wrong thread, delete

 

 

.

Edited January 2, 2018 by GSP7

[WiscoRedkneck]

Finally I got all the parts in including the new alternator just waiting for temperatures closer to 0 and not double digits below.  Or I could just take the lumber rack off and get it into the garage otherwise it's too tall...  Finally we should see double digit positive temperatures tommorow and Monday 

 

[WiscoRedkneck]

Alright so it's been a while since I posted last I was able to get it done about 4 days ago but haven't been able to post anything due to injuring  my hand during the repair. 

I will have more to follow including pictures and so on right now as it sits Larry B's cable repair kit was far less complete that I was hoping and needed a lot of pieces to complete the project also I'm not exactly happy with the quality of terminals they didn't seem to take solder very well.

The alternator on the other hand is a complete different story I could not be any happier during first startup you'll still will notice the headlights dim but once the truck runs for a minute it adjusts itself and you will notice a slight dimming if all of the lights are on in the cab including interior lights and your running fan on high power otherwise the headlights almost never dim like before.

For the alternator you do have to add one ground and charge line, also my grounds for the engine were upgraded as well.

I'm putting a list of extras I had to buy to complete the project so you will know what is involved, as well as some locations tricks and things I found of what not to do....

all total 2 new batteries, new alternator, all new battery cables and new body chassis grounds under the hood were replaced.  I had to run to the store once to get the rest of the parts that took 3 hours without that the job can be easily completed in half a day I spent about 6 and a half hours at it but had extra wiring and modifications I made.

[Mopar1973Man]

36 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

haven't been able to post anything due to injuring  my hand during the repair. 

 

What happened? Are you ok?

 

36 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

I will have more to follow including pictures and so on

 

I'm curious of the project and what you've done.

[WiscoRedkneck]

The drill press vise separated from the press deck when enlarging the lugs I got hit by the spinning vise I didn't break any bones just cut pretty good and bruised sucks it's the dominant hand....

 

Okay so the first two pictures are what I had to start with the other pictures show removal of the crossover wire and the driver side ground. the ground is the drivers side engine ground it goes down to engine block I believe it's an 18mm bolt that is into the block right behind your slobber tube just below the power steering pump.  The picture below shows the lugs the new ones I got are 2/0 3/8s lugs as you can see the engine grounds and starter lugs have to be 2/0 1/2 on the engine and starter side of the cables I just drilled three out of which one ended in disaster....

Since we're on the topic the Larry B kit I got was designed as a top end kit if you're cutting off your existing cable lines and putting on new cables ends to the batteries it works great but if you're replacing the cables in their entirety you need a lot more lugs about 12 if I recall correctly and all total including enlarged chassis to battery ground and extra charge line and ground I used 40' of 2/0 Nations alternator gave me a fancy wire chart I will post for reference to identify what gauge wire I should use for the system...

 

The next picture shows the location of the passenger side ground both batteries at this point have been removed the air intake tube, air cleaner and heat shield has also been removed to grant easier access I traced the main ground on passenger side back to the engine it's located just behind the oil filter housing slightly below it and just in front of the engine mount I was able to touch it from up top but found it easier to remove from underneath.  This battery side also has a body ground, the PCM ground(I think) and I believe it's the grid heater ground that's the last picture of the gray plug, those plugs are very difficult to get apart and should be inspected for corrosion and even though they have a weather pack on them I still put a little Dielectric grease in there just for good measure.

Luckily for me when I separated them and then cut off the existing terminal end to splice on my new one the wire was still in good shape and it was not going to need to be replaced, if it's too badly corroded and you have to replace it you'll have to contact a Dodge dealer and acquire a new plug end or find something online.

 

The alternator has also been removed from the truck at this point I pretty much had everything out of the truck I was ready to start cleaning and rebuilding.  I laid out all the existing battery cables on the floor then cut all my new ones to length once I was done with that I then trim the ends to expose the copper to prepare them for crimping and soldering. 

 

I need to take some more pictures of final product this picture here is the last picture I took before I injured my hand, at this point both batteries are sitting in the truck the alternator is in loosely for mock up and we're dry fitting all of the cables currently the truck does not have the right wire loom on the crossover cable it's too small once my hand feels a little better I have to change that so when you see that the pictures no comments please lol I'll make you guys chuckle I've been using voice to text to bring this write up to you and editing with my left hand when needed....   Still -6 degrees outside right now so maybe around noon I'll go out and take some pictures for you guys. 

 

Edited January 14, 2018 by WiscoRedkneck

[JAG1]

That's good job your doing and I thank you for writing about it.

 

I'm sorry about your hand. I know how it goes sometimes being in construction...... It hurts like a son of a 'B'  and then the cold makes it 10 times worse.

 

Are you going to solder the lugs after crimping them on? I always think about how I might melt the cable insulation with too much heat and then also read about soldering the ends of the cables before crimping the new lugs on.

 

What is best?

[Mopar1973Man]

Personally, I say solder is the best method being the cable is in sense welded to the entire face of the lug. Where crimping is based on contact by pressure. If soldered properly the cable will be sealed to moisture and battery acid where crimping the cable can oxidize from battery acid contact or simply water. 

 

@JAG1 For a construction guy, it's like sweating together to copper fittings they never leak, do they? As long as it was done right. 

Edited January 14, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[WiscoRedkneck]

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Personally, I say solder is the best method being the cable is in sense welded to the entire face of the lug. Where crimping is based on contact by pressure. If soldered properly the cable will be sealed to moisture and battery acid where crimping the cable can oxidize from battery acid contact or simply water. 

 

@JAG1

I agree with this one hundred percent the only exception to this is in my case the LarryB style tinned terminal ends did not accept solder very well, I believe I couldn't get it hot enough without causing damage to the insulation to get the terminal to accept solder it just kept wicking up the copper.

so do to being short I purchased locally some copper ends that were crimped and soldered theese took solder very well so it truly depends on what you are working with

The first picture here is of the upgraded chassis ground that goes directly from the frame to the battery then you have the upgraded charge line and ground wire off the alternator bracket to the negative on the passenger side battery and then off the power stud on the alternator to the positive the passenger side battery ran out of red cable so the passenger side charge line is black

Last picture just gives you a little better shot of the alternator and the back of it

[JAG1]

Nice job.

 

You know you could make a kit and sell them on this site.

Edited January 14, 2018 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

Nice. The only thing I would do is find a high amp fuse holder and install a 180 Amp fuse or whatever the Alternator is rated for. This way the alternator is protected if a diode happens to short out then the fuse will blow and not start an engine fire. 

[WiscoRedkneck]

Good thought instructions didn't say anything about that but I like the idea

[WiscoRedkneck]

That there is the fusible link that I plan to use to protect the charge line to the battery 200 amp any thoughts before I order it up

Edited January 14, 2018 by WiscoRedkneck

[Mopar1973Man]

Exactly... That's the ticket. 

[WiscoRedkneck]

New fusible link assembly will arrive tomorrow, ran the numbers looked everything over all total not including batteries and alternator I have $243 in wiring fusible link and terminal ends. After looking into it I could probably build a kit for under 300 that's including wiring and fusible link for a upgraded alternator.  If I recall correctly it was just under $300 to the door for the alternator and $270 for batteries