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2001 Cummins question?

Standard Cab01
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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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Sounds more like apps, 216 would be for vp, I would double check everything before getting vp and having same problem. Scan with a good scanner for codes, make sure all grounds in good shape. Minimal ac comming from alternator, mine is around 0.03vac at idle with all accessories off and make sure you drove the truck first so grids are not cycling. I usually check mine after i come home and before I shut engine off. And you'll need a better volt Meter then a 10 dollar ones. Don't have to be top o gb the line but need to be able check in thousands like on below.20180217_145213.jpg.d473faa3a4deeb3c863834e6484447e5.jpg

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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I hope you didn't buy vp from part store, just never heard anything good about them kinda like alternators, hit and miss. And how were they able to diagnose that I'm very curious, hunch or we're there codes that led them to it. Still there is always testing that need be done before condemning vp. @Mopar1973Man any suggestions 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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5 hours ago, Standard Cab01 said:

1693 code, defuels,dies out sometimes. Bucks, sometimes doesent want to start after it dies in traffic dead paddle. Sometimes it  has great power sometimes a total dog.

 

P1693 code just means there is another code present and need to use OBDII code reader. 

 

As for the Bucking and dying you need t oread the codes so we know what you got going on. As for the part store injection pump you can't verify if its been on a Bosch 815 test stand and calibrated after being rebuilt. I've got a listing of the shops that have Bosch 815 test stands.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Give you a guide on VP44 longevity. Being I've reached 243k miles on my last pump. 

  • Clean DC power - Make sure you under 50mV AC for good life span.
  • Filtration - 3 micron filters are the best. If you can double stack is better like when you install the FASS leave the stock filter there and use a big line kit from Vulcan Performance.
  • Lubricity - Bosch states you should have <420 HFRR fuel but all US fuel is 520 HFRR. 2 Cycle Oil is a good lubricant to add to the fuel.
  • Fuel Pressure - 14 to 20 PSI is optimal. 
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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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48 minutes ago, Standard Cab01 said:

Explain  the power part for me please

Just means no excessive ac output from alternator. Seems that a lot of us are around.0.03vac at idle, some less some more, if I rev mine up it can go as high as 0.1 it's a fail according to some, but I can't get it lower than that. Tried 3 different alternators, never had less than 0.028 measuring at alternator it self, not at batteries. So I'm calling it good, when mine did partly fail I believe it was around 0.1 idling. Ended up being just one half failed diode and wore out brushes with atmature. It still charged fine.

Edited by Dieselfuture
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Standard Cab01

Standard Cab01

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22 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Kind of like myself going from Edge Comp to a Quadzilla it day and night difference in tuning. Technology has come a long ways for our truck since the release of the Banks Tuner. You might step over to the Quadzilla forum and take a peek.

 

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

I have been looking at the quesadilla tuners, like I said I don't want a race truck so how do you feel about the XZT box? 

 I don't want to wire tap, will it work with the rv275 s?

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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27 minutes ago, Standard Cab01 said:

so how do you feel about the XZT box?

 

I really don't like them. 

 

When you had the time to custom tune like I've now got the grip off now. You don't want to go back to canned tune. Even my truck is not designed around racing at all. It completely designed around efficiency and longevity. So like my Economy tune is very very mild and ramps up slower and is smoke-free and the timing is set for optimal efficiency. 

 

Now like the old Edge Comp I had was OK. It did great for power and performance. But sucked for efficiency. Again comes back to the lack of control for fuel and timing. So you had to limit yourself back to stock or RV275 injectors to keep the MPG up and smoke down. That where my MPG switch came from was learning that the timing was over-advanced in the dead of winter killing the MPG number. Now my current tune compensates for that problem.

 

So like I'm currently running the Quadzilla Adrenaline without a wire tap. I've been tuning for the entire year now without a wire tap just to make the best CANBus tune I could like the XZT but it will be much better when done.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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