Getting an aux trans cooler for my truck pretty soon here. I’m also getting a deep trans pan. I’ve narrowed it down to the Derale 15840 and the 15960. Anyone have person experience with any of these? Or if you have another suggestions fire them my way! I’m also going to do the Derale electric fan set up adventually when I get time. Also is their any good write ups on installing these on our trucks? I did a quick google search and didn’t come up with much

https://goerend.com/goerend-47-48re-transmission-pan-kit/

 

No complaints about my goerend

Same on the Goerend pan

 

 

Why are you installing the Derale? 

I’m going with this trans pan from lPW racing. 

@notlimah My trans temp gets hot when I push it hard now that it’s 80 degrees out here in MI. 

How hot is hot?

 

The stock heat exchanger should be just fine unless it’s rotting out on ya or somethin.

22 minutes ago, notlimah said:

How hot is hot?

 

The stock heat exchanger should be just fine unless it’s rotting out on ya or somethin.

Stock exchanger is long gone, bunch of tiny pin holes in it and was leaking coolant. My temp gauge is in the port on the side of the tranny case and it sits at 120F while cruising and sees 140F when I accelerate. If my probe was in the pan for actual temp it will be much higher . 

Always love when guys talk manuls transmission they argue about how 6 speeds are needed because of the number of gears and application of torque. Then we get to automatics with mere 4 gears where the top two gears are the basically same ratio as the top two gear of the manuals. Then you have only two lower gear where the ratios are way different. Then you mix up torque converter stall RPM's and possibly oversized tires on top of 3.55 gear you get a soup pot full of issues. 

 

I see @Youngblood24v is at least stock tire size. I've got to ask how much time are you spending unlocked on the torque converter? 

 

23 minutes ago, Youngblood24v said:

My temp gauge is in the port on the side of the tranny case

 

Not an accurate temperature. There is no flowing ATF fluid there.

 

24 minutes ago, Youngblood24v said:

If my probe was in the pan for actual temp it will be much higher . 

 

Most likely not typically that temperature is lower. The hot line leaving the transmission to the cooler is typically the hottest. Kind of like measuring coolant temperature at the driver side radiator tank which will be close to the 190-195* but now open the radiator cap and measure the coolant on the passenger side it like 110-130*F at the most. Same thing is true for the transmission the pan will be the coolest spot after the cooler. 

 

Currently, my 46RE (Dynamic Transmission) in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has a clamp on Trans Temp probe on the hot line leaving the transmission. Yeah, I need to buy a bung and install the probe in the pan. So far my hottest temp I've ever seen is 190*F in downtown Boise traffic stop and go on about 110*F summer. Again measured at the hot line leaving the transmission.

32 minutes ago, Youngblood24v said:

Stock exchanger is long gone, bunch of tiny pin holes in it and was leaking coolant. My temp gauge is in the port on the side of the tranny case and it sits at 120F while cruising and sees 140F when I accelerate. If my probe was in the pan for actual temp it will be much higher . 

 

Yea man, those numbers are nothin to shake a stick at. If it were over 190 constantly then yea you’d have cooling issues. Seeing a 20* shift is proof that your port isn’t getting adequate fluid to measure temp properly. 

 

If I ever need to replace mine I’ll be looking here... http://www.americancoolingsolutions.com/1998-2002-dodge-ram-cummins-transmission-oil-cooler-3935812/

 

or with an oem.

I did the 15960 and made an alum bracket with drill bits/drill, bolts, grinder and a long stick of thick aluminum 90* angle stock from home Depot. Just made it first with cardboard and tape. Mounted it to the front left of the bed on the underside, in front of the fuel tanks fill neck. I wanted it to get some air flow. I haven't put the fan on yet but I've noticed it def helped the temps. Probably lowered temps 15deg on avg without a fan even.

Looks good @rogerash0 do you happen to have the dimensions? If my exchanger ever starts looking suspect I may go this route.

Edited May 13, 20186 yr by notlimah

@rogerash0 That mount looks great but unfortunately since I live in Michigan it would get trashed after a couple months of driving on our salt filled roads. I’m gunna build a mount like this and put it in my bed then I’ll be able to hide my onboard air tank behind it also ? two birds with one stone 

Ya I like those setups a lot too but I could never justify losing the bed space, unfortuantly. I drive a lb so I can fit dirt bikes in there front to back. 

 

Salt will ruin aluminum too? Quicker than steel? I'm not sure if too much gets kicked up where my cooler is, since it's behind the cab it's pretty far from the front wheels.

 

Also I didn't save the dimensions, I just cut up some cardboard, duct taped it together and knew my template was good.

43 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Salt will ruin aluminum too? Quicker than steel? I'm not sure if too much gets kicked up where my cooler is, since it's behind the cab it's pretty far from the front wheels.

 

Lets put it this way just highway travel I've got to wash the salt of the inside of my hood. Then the salt goes all the way up under the bed skin. Anything hangs down there is going to get a good coating of salt and mud. Mud is the capture device that holds the salt to the metal longer so metals rot faster. 

 

The biggest problem with where yours is at the heat of the transmission cooler will attempt to dry the mud out. This could plug up rather quickly on spring days and overheat the transmission. I remember a few people attempting to mount under the truck with poor results and require more frequent cleaning of cooler. 

8 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Ya I like those setups a lot too but I could never justify losing the bed space, unfortuantly. I drive a lb so I can fit dirt bikes in there front to back. 

Ive already measure it out, I’m able to fit my quad in the bed and still shut the tailgate with this mount set up ?

 

Salt will ruin aluminum too? Quicker than steel? I'm not sure if too much gets kicked up where my cooler is, since it's behind the cab it's pretty far from the front wheels.

 I live on a dirt road so it will get chipped and will corrode pretty quickly, I’ve got bd sway bar links brand new last year and they look like their 5 years old already... I gotta take a bunch of stuff off ie shocks,springs,sway bars and repaint them cuz they look so bad already 

 

 

 

Ya I've given up on driving my truck off-road even with a Carli setup and 35s... It's just too hard on stuff. Unless your crawling, but when you have a dirt bike there's just no reason to do such thing.

21 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Ya I've given up on driving my truck off-road even with a Carli setup and 35s... It's just too hard on stuff. Unless your crawling, but when you have a dirt bike there's just no reason to do such thing.

 

I gave up attempting to make a wanna-be offroad truck and leaving it stock so it can still go off-road or off-pavement without breaking something every time. Here shortly this spring I've got to get out and start hauling firewood for the season. I'll be back to my off road use again and still be racking up miles. I don't see any pavement here... 

 

4 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Ya I've given up on driving my truck off-road even with a Carli setup and 35s... It's just too hard on stuff. Unless your crawling, but when you have a dirt bike there's just no reason to do such thing.

 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I gave up attempting to make a wanna-be offroad truck and leaving it stock so it can still go off-road or off-pavement without breaking something every time. Here shortly this spring I've got to get out and start hauling firewood for the season. I'll be back to my off road use again and still be racking up miles. I don't see any pavement here... 

 

 

Little secret. The reason I won't do the oversized tires because of that what destroyed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and forced me to trade it in and buy the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500. I kept lifting and installing larger and more aggressive tires it kept breaking suspension, steering and driving parts. It got to the point I couldn't get parts and it was down to buying other axles and retrofitting after several (I mean several trips to wrecking yards) I gave up and bought the 2002 Dodge and used the 1972 Dodge Power Wagon as a trade in. I swore that I'd never make that mistake again attempting to build a "Cool Looking Ride". So far I've beat you all for longevity for suspension, steering, and brakes. Hands down I've got the winning build. 

 

Very old photos from a 0.3 MP pen camera long time ago...

 

 

Maybe my misfortune was a good thing because now I won't exist on the Internet if I still had my old 1972 Dodge Power Wagon yet... 

We just got the driveway re stoned  at work. So for the past week I’ve had to use 4hi to get around the driveway and I guess I spun it a little too much and this happened ? my gravel road is the most that my truck sees off-road and I still break stuff 

Looks like it was lacking grease... One thing I like about greaseable u-joints, you can flush the debris out and fresh grease in. 

That sucks, definitely looks low on grease. What brand of joint is that, guessing front axle shaft? Looks like it's been busted before maybe on install, how it already has rust on some surface. Try not to beat them in place and use a press, or irina can crack, same goes for bearings.