W-T ground article simplified!

[JAG1]

13 hours ago, dripley said:

I take it you mean the gray connectors on the ground wires to the batterys.

Yes I heard about a guy that found his to have a bad connection, kind of loose and was causing transmission hunting. When he soldered the two wires together it went away. But, now we know a lot more about A C ripple/ noise thanks to Mopar1973Man who got us on the right track.

[RottenMutt]

+1 on grey connector that goes to the passenger battery ground post.  eliminate it with soldered on round lugs and put a bolt and nut on it to make the connection.

Also watch ALL the lead battery terminals (positive and negative) to the battery cables, they are the culprit as well.  re-crimp with 2.5 lb sledge and anvil or replace.

[int3man]

On ‎7‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 6:56 PM, dripley said:

Here is the splice, about 8" from the ECM plug going toward the VP.

There is another splice of the 5v signal to the the MAP and oil pressure sender/switch that might be my issue but I have not found it yet.

Hi Did you ever find that Splice?  I have an intermittent Oil Pressure Gauge and I think that it is the 5 v source?  I need to find the splice or Share with the MAP sensor.

 

Thanks

Michael

[dripley]

20 minutes ago, int3man said:

Hi Did you ever find that Splice?  I have an intermittent Oil Pressure Gauge and I think that it is the 5 v source?  I need to find the splice or Share with the MAP sensor.

 

Thanks

Michael

Yes and no. That is my spare wiring harnes and there is no splice of the 5v supply shared by the oil pressure sender and the MAP sensor. The oil pressure sender on the 02 is just a switch and only has one wire to it. I assume that is just for the ECM to see oil pressure and then something takes over the pressure gauge over and it reads based on ect and rpm. That is something Dodge did late in the in the 2nd gen run. Your 01.5 may or may not have it either. The easiest way to tell would be to pull the connector on the oil pressure sender/switch and see if you have 3 wires going to it. An orange 5v supply, blk/ltblu ground, gray/blk to pin 6 on the ecm. The gray/ltblu is the only wire used on mine. The orange 5v supply is unbroken from the ECM to the MAP sensor.

 

 

[int3man]

1 minute ago, dripley said:

Yes and no. That is my spare wiring harnes and there is no splice of the 5v supply shared by the oil pressure sender and the MAP sensor. The oil pressure sender on the 02 is just a switch and only has one wire to it. I assume that is just for the ECM to see oil pressure and then something takes over the pressure gauge over and it reads based on ect and rpm. That is something Dodge did late in the in the 2nd gen run. Your 01.5 may or may not have it either. The easiest way to tell would be to pull the connector on the oil pressure sender/switch and see if you have 3 wires going to it. An orange 5v supply, blk/ltblu ground, gray/blk to pin 6 on the ecm. The gray/ltblu is the only wire used on mine. The orange 5v supply is unbroken from the ECM to the MAP sensor.

 

 

I think that I saw 3 wires there when last I looked on the oil sensor.  The Map sensor connector had the lock lever broken when I pulled it.  Need to find a local wrecking yard to purchase a replacement.  

 

Michael

[dripley]

1 minute ago, int3man said:

I think that I saw 3 wires there when last I looked on the oil sensor.  The Map sensor connector had the lock lever broken when I pulled it.  Need to find a local wrecking yard to purchase a replacement.  

 

Michael

The 02 wiring diagram shows 3 but my spare harness has 1 wire in a 2 prong connector with one of them plugged up. Have not checked the one on the truck.

[int3man]

6 minutes ago, dripley said:

The 02 wiring diagram shows 3 but my spare harness has 1 wire in a 2 prong connector with one of them plugged up. Have not checked the one on the truck.

K Thanks!   I think that we ran this to ground earlier.  I'm beginning to think that pulling the harness and running fingers over it might be the answer.  I just need to get this stupid thing in my name.  I got a quote to fix the skin cancer today.  BOAT Break out another thousand!!!

 

Michael!

Edited September 20, 2018 by int3man

[Brianh]

Made the fix yesterday and the truck shifts amazingly different. Very easy repair, but was a little confused about the PDC wire also, thinking that it had to be there because of the 140 amp fuse. After rereading this article a few times I convinced myself that it should be just fine. Works like a champ. Thanks!

[2000Ram2500]

I just did this a couple weeks ago and I too was wondering what to do with the pdc end of the wire. I actually disconnected it all originally but because of my super custom battery wiring I ran out of room on my drivers side battery stud and had to re-purpose a side post adapter (I have optimas with a top and side post). So I used my side post adapter to attach my new ground to the drivers side battery and then ran my grid heaters to one side of the 140A fuse and connected the other side to the battery as it was before coming from the alternator. Hasn't blown yet and I know those heaters draw quite a bit of power. I guess we'll really see when it starts to get colder here in a month or so.

 

I also experienced a huge improvement in overall driveability. Shifting is alot smoother. From a stop the shift from 1st to 2nd is extremely smooth and comes on alot sooner. I used to have to feather the throttle around 25 mph to get it to come out of first but now its already changing by 20mph. Overall i feel like it just drives alot better after this mod. I have my edge monitoring the APPS percentage and it holds steady (I was just trying to fix up a P1689). I do still need to get a reading on my alternator AC but for now its doing great. Gotta say thanks to @W-T for sharing this and @Mopar1973Man for getting better pictures and simplifying it

 

I should also point out that at least my local Napa carries a couple styles of premade lengths of 4ga battery cable. You can get it with a standard battery terminal one one end and eyelet on the other or 2 eyelets. I used a side to top post adapter with a 20 or 24" piece of battery cable for the alternator. I would suggest not going that route as i had to go to great lengths to get the eyelet to fit inside the alternator connector and a better route would definitely be the way that mopar man did it. But for the ground on the drivers side these napa cables work perfectly.

Edited September 25, 2018 by 2000Ram2500
addon at the end

[RottenMutt]

The positive cross-over cable between the two batteries is as important as the ground cable, this was causing my latest torque converter thrashing.  Some stupid engineer thought it would be wise to send the most critical engine sensor grounds to the RH battery ground terminal.  If you have any problems with that positive cable, then the electrical path will have to route thru chassis ground or engine ground to get to the driver side battery ground.

I spit open the existing lead battery terminals and replaced them with marine battery terminal top posts and selterm marine grade terminals lugs.