VP44 testing

[Marcus2000monster]

Is there a way to test VP44 health when there is no codes? My truck ran like crap this morning. Very chattery and doggy. I’m wondering if my VP isn’t going south. It started pretty well but was pretty chattery for only 25 degrees. Scanned for codes and got nothing. 

[Mopar1973Man]

6 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Is there a way to test VP44 health when there is no codes?

 

No. The only way to test a VP44 is have it sent in and ran 3 hours on the test stand which come typically at the cost of about half a VP44 replacement. (400 to 500 dollars)

 

7 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

My truck ran like crap this morning. Very chattery and doggy. I’m wondering if my VP isn’t going south. It started pretty well but was pretty chattery for only 25 degrees. Scanned for codes and got nothing. 

 

Typical high timing ECM software. Once the IAT drops below 80*F the ECM stacks on another 4 degrees of timing and runs at about 20-21* BTDC which is typically too high of timing. Hence there is where my MPG mode on my high idle switch is good for because it fools the IAT to showing 143*F and the timing is retarded back down to normal range again giving back performance.

 

Another way is to just get a Quadzilla and set the Warm Up mode for 140*F or so to get it kicked into the timing mode soon and then you can control the timing directly.  

 

Yeah, I see the very thing you do too. Morning here at the house is 25*F but in New Meadows proper its only 16*F right now.

https://lb.511.idaho.gov/idlb/rwisstations/rwisstation.jsf?id=9&view=state&text=m&textOnly=false

[Marcus2000monster]

30 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No. The only way to test a VP44 is have it sent in and ran 3 hours on the test stand which come typically at the cost of about half a VP44 replacement. (400 to 500 dollars)

 

 

Typical high timing ECM software. Once the IAT drops below 80*F the ECM stacks on another 4 degrees of timing and runs at about 20-21* BTDC which is typically too high of timing. Hence there is where my MPG mode on my high idle switch is good for because it fools the IAT to showing 143*F and the timing is retarded back down to normal range again giving back performance.

 

Another way is to just get a Quadzilla and set the Warm Up mode for 140*F or so to get it kicked into the timing mode soon and then you can control the timing directly.  

 

Yeah, I see the very thing you do too. Morning here at the house is 25*F but in New Meadows proper its only 16*F right now.

https://lb.511.idaho.gov/idlb/rwisstations/rwisstation.jsf?id=9&view=state&text=m&textOnly=false

My idle switch is broken I’ll order new one from u today

[Mopar1973Man]

What's broken on it? If it the switch part get a hold of @Me78569 he'll work with you. If its the cable part I can handle that part. 

[Me78569]

yep please show us the issue we will make it right.

[Marcus2000monster]

30 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

yep please show us the issue we will make it right.

It’s the switch. But I broke it so it’s my fault. Appreciate the willingness to make it right though! That goes a long ways! So it’s perfectly normal for it to be rather chattery and doggy when cold? 

[Mopar1973Man]

...and they say "Cold Air Intakes" are good for performance. 

 

Anything under 80*F IAT is too cold. The other problem that most don't think about is the local fuel have already start switching over to 45 and 50 cetane with lower cloud points. This will make the matter worse because with the enhanced ignition quality of the fuel and the enhanced timing stack on the ECM blindly will make for huge reduction in MPG which most start seeing a 2-4 MPG drop because of this problem. 

 

Optimally you want to get your IAT back above 80*F in real temp not fooled for the best performance. This is where the winter fronts come in covering the grill and prevent cold air from blowing on the intercooler. This will help with keeping the IAT temperature up. This is a diesel engine you need heat to make the fuel go BANG! This is where the BHAF shines the best because it is drawing the warmth of the engine what little there is.

 

Another factor is don't use any extra cetane or anti-gel if you can avoid it. cetane booster and anti-gel products will reduce the BTU's of the fuel, even more, reducing the MPG even lower. Excessive use of anti-gels can cause VP44 damage because you are stripping away the lubricity with more solvent to cut the waxes in the fuel. Most are based on Xylene or Kerosene for pour point depressants. Again you want to avoid using if at all possible. Myself I've never used any of these products and never gelled up once yet. 

 

High cetane means lower BTU's. This is what my local fuels look like.

 

The problem is that the ECM cannot measure the cetane level of the fuel at all. This is a factor that is not considered and is the best problem of why the MPG drop in winter time. Quadzilla is the ultimate answer. Being you can build your entire timing table around the cetane of the fuel and your current IAT to give the best possible MPG still which will still surpass the MPG switch because it locked the IAT at 143*F. Even with temps falling here into the teens I'm still touching 19 MPG with no big issues. 

[Marcus2000monster]

I agree the cold air intake hype is BS. I put a OEM intak back in becuase I wanted a quieter turbo and I got it. I’m keeping a very close eye on the filter and box to ensure no warping or cracking. If this happens I will switch back to BHAF. 

[Mopar1973Man]

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I put a OEM intak back in becuase I wanted a quieter turbo and I got it.

 

That wasn't a very good idea... That is going to bring even more cold air to the engine. 

 

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

This is where the BHAF shines the best because it is drawing the warmth of the engine what little there is.

 

[Dieselfuture]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Myself I've never used any of these products and never gelled up once yet.

Come get some fuel in Iowa, lol

[Mopar1973Man]

21 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Come get some fuel in Iowa, lol

 

If I want to do that all I got to do is get a tank of the B15 Biodiesel in Oregon and I could do that really easy. For some reason, Idaho petroleum diesel is treated very well for cloud point and pour point. Still to this day 356k miles and not used one anti-gel product nor had it gelled or freeze up. 

 

I'll admit I've seen lots of local kids with Daddy's Diesel truck and stealing a bit of the red dye from the ranch and end up gelled up on the highway. I've also seen the same thing where the fuel was froze up from the excessive amount of water. I've seen even a FASS 150 pump blowing fuses because the pump was a block of ice and so was the straw couldn't blow air into the tank. 

 

Most of this I see from long-term storage of fuel and trying to use the wrong grade of fuel at the wrong time. Just being too CHEAP and fussing over 2 to 5 cents for cheap fuel where the fuel station does NOT use water blocking filters. Yeah, I've done my homework and know which stations NOT to buy diesel from period. 

[Marcus2000monster]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That wasn't a very good idea... That is going to bring even more cold air to the engine. 

 

 

Hmm I’ll have to admit I’m loving the quiet turbo but dang clearly the BHAF is better for IAT temps. 

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Hmm I’ll have to admit I’m loving the quiet turbo but dang clearly the BHAF is better for IAT temps. 

Of course I could get a Qaud and tune the timing and engine load to quiet the turbo but the budget says no right now.

[Mopar1973Man]

Could you get a picture of your High Idle Switch so we can see possibly what is broken? This why we built these on PCB because that makes it possible for us to replace the broken parts like switches fairly easy. Compared to the old Ed Grafton design which made it nearly impossible to repair.  

 

This way we can get your switch functional again at least that would help out in the MPG's. 

[Marcus2000monster]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Could you get a picture of your High Idle Switch so we can see possibly what is broken? This why we built these on PCB because that makes it possible for us to replace the broken parts like switches fairly easy. Compared to the old Ed Grafton design which made it nearly impossible to repair.  

 

This way we can get your switch functional again at least that would help out in the MPG's. 

Well the little tan plastic piece separated from the rest of along with the board from the dial. I need to look closer there’s a chance I can glue it back together I’ll see and get a pic when I can. 

[Mopar1973Man]

No don't bother. Just unplug the switch part and send it back to @Me78569. Nick got the parts pile and can solder in a new switch and just send it back to you. Just a few day both ways for mail. Stuff the switch in a flat rate mailer. 

[Marcus2000monster]

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

No don't bother. Just unplug the switch part and send it back to @Me78569. Nick got the parts pile and can solder in a new switch and just send it back to you. Just a few day both ways for mail. Stuff the switch in a flat rate mailer. 

Ok thanks I appreciate it! @Me78569 please PM me your address. 

[Marcus2000monster]

Here is what’s broken. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Not a problem. Send it back to Nick he'll rebuild that easy. I just bought him 100 units of parts for building more. 

[Marcus2000monster]

Awesome I’ll try to get to the Post Office on lunch tomorrow. Thanks a lot!!

[Guest 04Mach1]

Below is a video of a few years back when I was still living in Aurora, CO. It's the only time I've had fuel gel and had to use Diesel 911. If I remember correctly it was about 15 below zero Fahrenheit that morning. Sorry for the camera shake but I was freezing my butt off that morning.