Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

ROUGH RIDING

Toughspot
 Share

Recommended Posts

Toughspot

Toughspot

Posted
  • Author
Posted
44 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Make sure you tell that shop to use lots and lots anti-seize on everything including bolts! 

 

The one unit bearing is my fault I replaced one that failed in Boise, ID and then never thought about it. No anti-seize used and it rusted to the knuckle in less than 1 year. I tried using the air hammer tool to push out the bear but no dice. I had to beat that bearing for over 4 hours with a 6 pound hammer to get it out of the knuckle. Not fun... So like I said make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts. Make sure to use sandpaper or hone stone to clean all holes up and remove rust. Makes assemble much better and the future change a breeze!

thanks bud.  Will do

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dripley

dripley

Posted
Posted

If you torch the ball joints be careful. @Mopar1973Man did you not have one of the studs on yours blow out of the joint with quiie a bit force a while back or was that someone else?

I rebuilt my front end at 240k on the oe parts. Replaced them all with Moog, pre federal mogul, and sitting at 215k on them now hoping they go another 50k. We will see. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted (edited)
34 minutes ago, dripley said:

If you torch the ball joints be careful. @Mopar1973Man did you not have one of the studs on yours blow out of the joint with quiie a bit force a while back or was that someone else?

 

Yeah, that was me... :sofa:

 

What he said is true. I heated the ball joint knuckle to help expand the metal. We started with a propane torch but no luck. Then fired up the acetylene torch and heated the ball joint good. The ball joint start to vent a very foul vapor that burned the eyes and horrid to breathe. We bailed out the shop and let that cool some. I can back in and sat down and hit the knuckle with a 6-pound hammer...

 

BOOM!!!

Then I open my eyes to the feeling of hot grease splattered all over my face. The ball stud exploded hit the floor, whizzed past me and the fender. Spraying me with hot grease. Hit the ceiling, then hit the floor, then hit my buddy in the thigh just about giving him a 3rd nut for life. :thud: 

 

So... If i was to do it again. I would just burn the top off completely. Push the ball stud out. Using a hacksaw relief cut the cap. Knock it out with a hammer. I'm not going to fight the whole ball joint press thing again... Screw that...

Edited by Mopar1973Man
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest 04Mach1

Guest 04Mach1

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Make sure you tell that shop to use lots and lots anti-seize on everything including bolts! 

 

The one unit bearing is my fault I replaced one that failed in Boise, ID and then never thought about it. No anti-seize used and it rusted to the knuckle in less than 1 year. I tried using the air hammer tool to push out the bear but no dice. I had to beat that bearing for over 4 hours with a 6 pound hammer to get it out of the knuckle. Not fun... So like I said make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts. Make sure to use sandpaper or hone stone to clean all holes up and remove rust. Makes assemble much better and the future change a breeze!

 

The trick in this video hasn't failed me yet in getting a stuck hub / bearing assembly out of a knuckle.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest 04Mach1

Guest 04Mach1

Posted
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yeah, that was me... :sofa:

 

What he said is true. I heated the ball joint knuckle to help expand the metal. We started with a propane torch but no luck. Then fired up the acetylene torch and heated the ball joint good. The ball joint start to vent a very foul vapor that burned the eyes and horrid to breathe. We bailed out the shop and let that cool some. I can back in and sat down and hit the knuckle with a 6-pound hammer...

 

BOOM!!!

Then I open my eyes to the feeling of hot grease splattered all over my face. The ball stud exploded hit the floor, whizzed past me and the fender. Spraying me with hot grease. Hit the ceiling, then hit the floor, then hit my buddy in the thigh just about giving him a 3rd nut for life. :thud: 

 

So... If i was to do it again. I would just burn the top off completely. Push the ball stud out. Using a hacksaw relief cut the cap. Knock it out with a hammer. I'm not going to fight the whole ball joint press thing again... Screw that...

 

I was changing a couple of SPL250 U-joints on a Freightliner a couple of years ago and let's just say I'll never use the heat and beat method for any type of press fit parts.  One of the cups exploded and I basically got shot with a piece of the cup. I've invested in a lot of specialty tools since then to handle pretty much any press fit parts.

 

Below is the X-ray before surgery and a picture after surgery that shows the entry wound and the extraction incision.

IMAG2052.jpg

IMAG2106.jpg

Edited by 04Mach1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest 04Mach1

Guest 04Mach1

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Bullet said:

Ouch!  Note to self...no heating of press fit parts!  :nono:

 

 

And make sure when driving pins out of heavy equipment with a 8 pound sledge and big punch to make sure and hit the punch.

 

IMG_20170908_104421.jpg

IMAG0391.jpg

Edited by 04Mach1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tractorman

Tractorman

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

BOOM!!!

 

I did the same thing.  Only I didn't go outside and wait for it to cool off and then come back and hit it with a hammer.  I was smarter.  I stayed on the job and kept applying heat until it let loose. 

 

I never saw the ball stud, but I heard it hit several different places in the shop at supersonic speeds.  It left quite a dent in the floor, too.  It took a few minutes to find it, but it gave me some time to reflect on just how stupid I was for applying heat to a sealed ball joint.  Fortunately, I and my helper were not injured, but not because of any skill on my part.

 

- John

Link to comment
Share on other sites
NIsaacs

NIsaacs

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Toughspot said:

What about AC Delco or Duralast?

 

I think the seal style is more important than the ball joint, especially for the bottom. Note the difference in the seal, the cheap joint (same as oem) actually has the better seal. How can the (expensive one) seal out water/contamination with a slip on seal?

 

 

ball joint 2.jpg

ball joint.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...