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Extended crank to start

Marcus2000monster
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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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3 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

I would see about 300F difference. But I also think it also depends on what you have set up. My dodge I need to leave in neutral at traffic lights because my TC is so low I see 450F in gear with my foot on the brake. When you go from neutral to drive at a light you can hear the engine load up, and the turbo start spooling. It turns heads in cars haha. I see running down the road 600-700 at 70mph. Towing is in the 800-900 range under full boost.

Are your 75's SAC style?

Yea my 75s are sac. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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21 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I don’t have funds to anything honestly but I got to do something. We will see how things play out with front end cost etc...

 

Trust me I know the feeling. I still got to do my injectors yet. After all that I spent on the PCM, alternator, and misc parts I'm having fairly empty Christmas. Might get to the injectors by January or February. :duh:

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Tractorman

Tractorman

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5 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Do you remember what you used for a push on stud connector on coils

 

Those studs are threaded - I just don't remember the diameter and pitch.  I do believe they are metric.  I have a used bolt / nut / washer bin and I just sorted through the nuts until I found two that fit.  You could probably find a nut on your truck that fits (not the one behind the wheel) and then match that nut to a couple of them at a local hardware store.

 

Let me know how it works out and what you think.

 

- John

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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On 12/21/2018 at 10:11 PM, Tractorman said:

 

Those studs are threaded - I just don't remember the diameter and pitch.  I do believe they are metric.  I have a used bolt / nut / washer bin and I just sorted through the nuts until I found two that fit.  You could probably find a nut on your truck that fits (not the one behind the wheel) and then match that nut to a couple of them at a local hardware store.

 

Let me know how it works out and what you think.

 

- John

Got it all done, works great. Got it on a regular push in momentary switch and ordered this one,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19MM-12V-Car-Push-Button-Switch-Momentary-Engine-Start-LED-Waterproof-Red-/173468423487?txnId=1953091987007

so it lights up when being pushed or if somehow switch gets shorted light should come on letting you know grids are on. Idk just an idea. 

My question to anyone that knows is, 

There are 2 grid heaters, are they both same or one is more powerful then the other. And I'm pretty sure one comes on all the time and depending on temperature the other one comes on. So which one comes on first and which one is second. I just don't think both need to be turned on all the time, so I was just going to pull negative contact on coil off and only put it back on when really needed. 

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ofelas

ofelas

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Both elements draw the same. 

Both come on initially, then just one during the second cycle, and then they’re both off.

You can see whether both or one are active via a voltage gauge. 

I wire both to the momentary, and let my index finger determine how long the pair is active before the starter cranks the engine. 

Once the engine is started, there’s no need for both/either one to cycle. 

 

Edited by ofelas
"voltage" rather than auto correct's "vintage"
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Tractorman

Tractorman

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49 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Got it all done, works great. Got it on a regular push in momentary switch and ordered this one,

 

Great - glad you like it.  I noticed that the switch you ordered is waterproof.  I have a windshield on my truck, so I don't need waterproof switches inside.

 

Actually the switch you ordered is a good looking switch with the illumination around the push button.  I am jealous.

 

- John

 

 

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