Stanley's Truck Remodel- Dove in Head First!

[Stanley]

Been a min, need to do another video update. Got a couple other issues arising. Gonna set me back again. I drove the truck last weekend about 5-7miles got everything warmed up after sitting for so long... it might be a longer video so bear with me... hope to have it up soon. 

[Stanley]

Here is the video link, let me know if it doesn't work..

 

https://youtu.be/x3gvyHao2S0

[Dieselfuture]

It's definitely a never-ending project, I feel like that all the time. Personally I would probably fix everything in the truck without pulling the motor. 

Your OCD must not be bad enough you didn't change the rear main at the same time you did clutch  it's not an easy decision, if it's still good then why change it.... that would be my luck too.

 

What did you use for sound dampening on your doors. I just got some noico 80mil stuff to do the whole truck, seemed it had great reviews.

[Stanley]

I used noico all over the whole truck! Haven't really got to "try" it out for sound comparison yet, but I think its gonna help a lot. 

[Stanley]

Thinking about doing it in the truck unless someone thinks all of this stuff would be easier and cleaner out of the truck. 

 

prolly going to buy my oil pan gasket, front and rear main seal at cummins

 

order the speedy sleeve install tool and seal install tool from thoroughbred diesel (spilting it with some buddies) 

 

blue top steering gear 

 

ps pump, lines, vacuum re seal from genos     if i pull engine ill do tappet cover too...

 

 

this think hopefully wont drop a drip of oil.....!

 

Thoughts on above ^^^??

 

Also needing more advice on engine pull or no.

[Royal Squire]

Might consider tappet cover gasket since your replacing gaskets 

[Stanley]

Anyone else?? How would I lift up the motor with the trans off to do oil pan etc with the rear main? 

 

Maybe pull trans and do the rear main, re install. 

 

Then lift up motor and do pan gasket? 

 

Then finally do the front main seal? 

 

Also debating using rtv/permetex vs gasket and some anarobic sealer 

 

Also please see above for other questions^^ considering getting started on this tonight. 

[dripley]

No need to pull the motor for the tappet cover, but you need to remove the VP to get to the one bolt. Just did mine while the head was so I did not have to remove the VP. The first time I replaced it was leaking a butt load of oil.

[Stanley]

Tappers not leaking, I was only gonna add doing the tapper cover if I pulled the engine. More concerned about the others really...

[Stanley]

Went and got all my gasket and seals from our local cummins store. Even got some install tools...

[Stanley]

Trans is about to come out... just a guess but I think it's the transmission input seal.. will see shortly. I have the 1.50 seal just in case along with rear main + sleeve. 

Do yall think it's a good idea to do rear main then re assemble and do oil pan? 

I wouldn't know how to jack up the whole motor on the front with out trans on...

Also I have the gasket for behind the rear main, should be pretty simple to replace? 

[dripley]

First time I pulled my tranny the front droped quite a bit. I wonder if you can remove the pan ftom the rear with it off? I dont know my self, just yhinking out loud.

[Stanley]

My thought was with it off and taking the adapter plate/mount off that I'd have room. Idk. I'll find out shortly...

[Stanley]

As suspected, it's the input shaft seal...

 

Maybe it was from setting so long... 

 

I put the usual 6 plus 2 for the fast coolers. the site glass on the fast cooler was prolly a little above it. Hopefully that's not over full. This time I'm gonna just add till its middle glass and not per what we usually do... what ya think? 

 

Gonna still do rear main and clean up the clutch... hope the oil didn't mess it up...

[Dieselfuture]

Make sure your vent is not plugged

[Stanley]

@Dieselfuture Do you mean the little "tin cap" on the tail housing? 

I have decided to pull the engine... I have everything removed from the rear of the engine, including the mounting plate; oil pan is removed also. I noticed that my tappet cover is leaking slightly at the lower rear corner... This made me realize it would be easier to just pull the engine and do everything outside to truck... For the front main seal Ill have to take off the whole front of the truck anyhow to make it easy, so all i have left is to undo motor mounts and some wiring clamps etc then pull motor... 

Hopefully going back in with oil pan on and everything attached wont be to tricky! 

 

this will also help with doing to powering steering and vacuum pump. Not to mention Ill be able to pressure wash the engine bay and what engine components I need too making it pretty and all haha. 

 

While its out Ill check my valve lash too. This thing should be dang near perfect and leak free...!

 

Anything else I should do while its out? 

Any tips or tricks to chaining this engine? I have both lifting eyes still on the truck. Prolly just put a chain from mount to mount fairly tight then put a small clevis in the middle and lift away... 

 

 

Also If anyone knows connecting rod clearance (side to side) please let me know. I wiggled them side to side but it seemed to be maybe to much. Ill bring home some feeler gauges once I figure out what the spec is... Maybe I'm over analyzing it lol

I can do a video of all these questions etc if that helps anyone. Also give a visual reference...

[Stanley]

 

 

Was digging around and now Im also thinking of a rear freeze plug block off plate too while its accessible...

 

@Mopar1973Man or someone else please school this young army fella in all my retarded questions... 

[Dieselfuture]

3 hours ago, Stanley said:

Do you mean the little "tin cap" on the tail housing? 

Not sure but there should be a vent someplace, if it's plugged it will push oil out of seals with temperature fluctuations, same goes for anything else like axles etc. I changed my rear axle seals when I got the truck and then I realized vent was plugged as I was finishing the job, oh whell. 

If i remember right there is a 1/8 " tube on top of tranny that I think I put a hose on and try to blow in, if it's good it will blow back some because you're filling the whole tranny with air. 

[Stanley]

Here's is another link to a video I made on truck... let me know of it doesn't work.

 

 

[Dieselfuture]

That fuel return T just has rubber almost look like chunks of hose instead of orings, you can maybe snug it up a bit or get new ones, 10 bucks a piece. I got new ones and it literally looks like they chopped up some hose to make them. Still not super tight. 

On your wiring loom, I hope you went through all grounds and redid them with solder. 

Nice progress