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Foglight wiring issues

Waydin_Stewart
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Waydin_Stewart

Waydin_Stewart

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Alright, a lot has happened with the truck since I last commented on here. My truck is a 1998.5 slt Laramie(I have the pull out headlight switch), everything I read online says it comes with foglight wiring. I bought a set of 4 led pods, 2 fog light relays(as my PDC had the slots and 12v power running to them, I used a test light to check for power) I installed the 10amp fuse for the drl lamp spot as it was missing for some reason but was also hot. My trick has a plug in the center underneath the radiator. I went to the salvage yard and found a truck with some foglight wiring but it was 2 prong plug, and I found a truck with a 3 prong plug like mine but just the plug as the wires had been cut. I know I can just run them to the battery and then to a switch, but I want it to be as factory as possible. The 1998 foglight/airbag switch is discontinued so I was going to try and wire my low beam power to the relay which would then send power to the foglights when low beams are on. So my question is, is this 3 prong plug correct or am i SOL? And if it is correct what other fuses/relays do I need to install in PDC or fuse label in cab to send power to fog lights while low beams are on. I know I would have to splice atleast 1 set of wires.

Edited by Waydin_Stewart
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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@Marcus2000monster

 

Have you pulled the bulbs and checked the sockets and the filaments? It's possible for the filament to break and vibrate causing the same thing to happen with flicker.

I have not ill do that tonight. Its wierd the truck will be sitting dead still and they turn on and stay on for like 5 mins and just shut off and then they stay off for a while. 

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

That right there points to bad fuse which is weird. Typically a fuse will heat slightly with the load and then open if its cracked then slowly cool and then close and then the light will come back on. 

Its usually After the truck sits for a little that they come back on. Iv swapped out the relay and the 15 amp fuse. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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If can grab a DVM or test light and test for power at the bulb plug and see if the power is going out. Need to figure out is it the +12V going away or is the ground missing at the outage times. This will help me figure out the next step. Being the bulb is the electrical load and you need a POS and NEG power source. 

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If can grab a DVM or test light and test for power at the bulb plug and see if the power is going out. Need to figure out is it the +12V going away or is the ground missing at the outage times. This will help me figure out the next step. Being the bulb is the electrical load and you need a POS and NEG power source. 

Itll have to wait till after work but yep ill do that tonight. 

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Waydin_Stewart

Waydin_Stewart

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7 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Did you have issues with the lights flickering or shutting off? I cant figure mine out. Iv swapped the relays and fuses checked grounds and wiring replaced the light switch and still doing it. 

I don’t have that issue, but what type of bulb do you have, my headlights are led and they do/did it 

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Where will the grounds be located?

2106447110_FOGLIGHTS(2).jpg.43bff95f42e377006b6650b6f928d4f1.jpg

 

Next time it happens remove the head light switch and ohm test the black/orange wire; it should be close to 0 ohms;  if not then you have a bad ground. 

 

If the ground tests good then with a jumper wire ground the brown/yellow wire at the head light switch; if the fog lights come on then the switch is bad 

 

If they don't come on then remove the fog light relay and ground terminal 30; If they come on then the wires from the relay to lights are good and there is an open circuit between the head light switch and the relay.

 

Ohm test the test the wire from the head light switch to pin #85 and the pin #87; reading should be close to 0 ohms.  If not then check for open circuit in the brown/yellow wire.  It might be at connector C134 (multipin connector at PDC) or splice S183 (in the PDC).  

 

1307645977_Scan_20180708(2).jpg.cfcf1d1e1982dd145854f4b81bbb106f.jpg

 

 

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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6 hours ago, IBMobile said:

2106447110_FOGLIGHTS(2).jpg.43bff95f42e377006b6650b6f928d4f1.jpg

 

Next time it happens remove the head light switch and ohm test the black/orange wire; it should be close to 0 ohms;  if not then you have a bad ground. 

 

If the ground tests good then with a jumper wire ground the brown/yellow wire at the head light switch; if the fog lights come on then the switch is bad 

 

If they don't come on then remove the fog light relay and ground terminal 30; If they come on then the wires from the relay to lights are good and there is an open circuit between the head light switch and the relay.

 

Ohm test the test the wire from the head light switch to pin #85 and the pin #87; reading should be close to 0 ohms.  If not then check for open circuit in the brown/yellow wire.  It might be at connector C134 (multipin connector at PDC) or splice S183 (in the PDC).  

 

1307645977_Scan_20180708(2).jpg.cfcf1d1e1982dd145854f4b81bbb106f.jpg

 

 

Thanks for this. Unfortunately I don’t understand where on the truck the ground is. I have a terrible time with diagrams lol

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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Don't worry about where that ground is right now.  It's probably good.

Not only are the fog lights grounded there but also the: 

Head lamp switch

Cigar lighter

Instrument cluster

Head lamp beam selector switch

A/C heater control

Electric brake provision

Power outlet

Glove box, ash tray and cup holder lights.

From joint connector #5

 

If you had a problem with this ground then these other systems would be effected but run the fog light test as outlined above. 

 

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