Mystery pedal thing

[DanByrd2]

Well, I was assuming otherwise. A gentleman on comp-d informed me I have a PCM for a 98 12v 5 speed, after finding all those connectors I was thinking the PO spliced in a 12v harness to a 24v light switch. I felt like that switch was the same as my old 24v, but I'm not 100% positive. 

 

It also makes sense that it has a 98 12v harness, because at some point the PO installed a 12v harmonic balancer. The CPS sensor is for a 98 12v. My new sensor will be here tomorrow, I'm hoping I will gain a tach & AC after I install it. If it doesn't fix the ac/tach, I'm honestly considering selling it and getting something that's not as Frankenstein... But the other part of me sees the thousands upon thousands someone has put into it already, hard to let go of a truck that has all the base upgrades done already.

 

Sorry, I never answered your question. 

 

The far left switch I've only managed to get it to do anything 1 time. I turned the ignition off and the Airdog kept running, flipped that toggle and the Airdog turned. Other than that one occurrence I don't know what it's function is. That was also the only time the Airdog has done that.

 

The smaller switch, 2nd to left, I was told is for the exhaust brake. 

 

The 3rd bigger switch I have no clue what it does, I've flipped it on/off numerous times and I haven't seen it do anything.

 

The far right toggle switch seems to bog down the engine when it's switched on. I don't know what it does but when I flip it on, the engine bogs down for a split second and then smooths out. 

 

One day, when patience is abundance, I'll give all this an honest effort to trace all this electrical out. Tonight was not the night.

 

[dave110]

This might help a little.

[Dieselfuture]

8 hours ago, DanByrd2 said:

The far right toggle switch seems to bog down the engine when it's switched on. I don't know what it does but when I flip it on, the engine bogs down for a split second and then smooths out

Ac compressor 

[98whitelightnin]

That is the stock headlight switch for a 98 12 and 24v and the newer style supposedly cannot be wired up. Its sad to see all those wires spliced together like that, i feel for you.

[DanByrd2]

Bit of an update. I installed the new CPS today. I did regain the tach but it is definitely inaccurate. I believe the harmonic balancer is fubar, from a bird's eye view it seems to have a good wobble to it, which I assume is causing the tach to be inaccurate.

 

Didn't run the truck long enough to see if the AC works. The harmonic balancer has me creeped out.

 

I did shed some wiring tonight. The middle two switches I traced to some aftermarket rear lights. Pulled all that garbage out. At some point the PO had a stereo system hooked up. I traced all that wiring and yanked it out too. Under looks a lot better now.

 

Still no luck with the headlights yet, I checked all fuses and everything was fine. I check all the spliced wires with a test light and only found one wire to that is hot, and it is hot all the time.... I looked at the wiring diagram moparman posted in the above referenced forum post. None of the wiring colors my harness has matched the diagram. 

 

I threw in the towel tonight, tomorrow I will try again.

[Haggar]

Keep in mind!!!   12v positive is supplied directly to the light bulbs themselves!!!!  (let that sink in, look at the drawing)  12v positive will never show up at the headlight switch FOR THE HEADLIGHTS.  (mine being the 24v, does have 12v positive there, but it is for the instrument lights and park/turn signal, not the headlights.)

 

The headlight switch for the headlights ONLY controls the negative side (ground).  So you need to identify the direct ground wire (G201 or G208 depending on which cab)  Then the wires that go to the ground terminal on the bulbs.  Connect those and you have head lights. 

 

Sorry, you have a nightmare...  That will take some work to figure it back out.  Just why in the world would someone want to retro back to a push pull versus the rotary switch.

 

GL

 

Hag

[DanByrd2]

And they are aftermarket LED's from superbrightleds.com, so of course that wiring isn't factory either.

[Haggar]

Dan,

 

OMG.  That will make it a bit harder to figure out too......   Just go slow, try to make your own wiring diagram of exactly what wires you have....   It will take a while, and some long jumpers.  Try and get a copy of the superbright wiring diagram.  hopefully the installer sort of followed their diagram so some of what you see will start to make sense.

 

GL 

 

Hag

[DanByrd2]

Update: Multifunction switch was bad. 60 bucks later, everything works. Also, 2 of those butt connectors were loose, which was causing some chaos.

 

 

Also, I ordered and installed a new fluidampr. New ess got put on and now the tach seems to work fine!