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Installing Isspro FP gauge in stock 01

MyOle2500
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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8 hours ago, Bullet said:

Somebody will usually say "you'll blow the seals" or "you'll have hard starts" but I have never seen either happen.

 

Actually I've seen both happen. It is possible to blow the front seal and then some cases i possible to have hard starts because the timing is over advanced. There is a few members here that filled the crankcase full of fuel from a blow front seal. Then hard starts than require pulling the lift pump power. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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LorenS

LorenS

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I know the grease gun hose is looked upon as being a poor choice, but a 2' long hose full of air, with the orifice "snubber" has protected my EV2 for over 20k miles. Most homes deal with real water hammer with copper pipe stubs - not much flex in that, either.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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On 8/25/2019 at 8:34 PM, LorenS said:

Most homes deal with real water hammer with copper pipe stubs - not much flex in that, either.

 

But its got a air pocket. Then the pressure gauge isn't hooked up to the stub. 

 

I've can show water hammer...

 

Not to mention every time I see grease gun hose the sensor is just flopping around the engine bay or zip tied to a power steering hose. :rolleyes:

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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That is only temporary. With the fast action of the constant pulses it will pull the air pocket out in time. Even my air brake line becomes solid fuel over time. The only protect after that is distance. The pulses tend weaken with distance. So your grease gun hose is what like 16 inches to 24 inches compared to 5 feet of air brake line which also seem to be the average line length for mechanical gauges. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
MyOle2500

MyOle2500

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@Mopar1973Man on the bracket Eric made you and the bracket for @mr.obvious, are the threads for both the FP and boost sensors the same?  I’m looking to make a similar bracket for both and just leave the boost empty minus the fitting for now.  I’m using Isspro EV2 for FP and will use them for the boost when the day comes.  Just want to make sure the threads are the same before welding it.

 

Thanks

63EA0785-F511-4727-B123-83816E8607DE.jpeg

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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We used a brass 1/8 NPT coupler. Then just soldered the brass fitting to the steel angle iron. Just test fit you PTC fitting and the sensor in the fitting. If all works you good to go.

 

Mine was built with steel fittings and Eric @ Vulcan Performance tack welded mine in place. I do like @mr.obvious choice of placement of his bracket really good spot. 

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MyOle2500

MyOle2500

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I like it as well.  I have some cuts of bed frame just like his to make the bracket.  My prob is I don’t have the boost gauge or sender unit yet.  I’m guessing the fittings were the same for the bracket you made for his Isspro gauges?  I’m shooting from the hip making the bracket with the “intensions” of doing boost later.  Its a bone stock ETH so may be a waste of time other than curiosity.  But I want to make sure the simulated bulkhead (brass fittings, or steel like your Vulcan made) fittings are the same before I weld everything up.  Then again, I guess the steel could rust with no sender or hose hooked up, may just be worth making a single mount for now.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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10 minutes ago, MyOle2500 said:

 Its a bone stock ETH so may be a waste of time other than curiosity.

 

It's never a waste of time. These trucks should of came with...

  • Pyrometer (0 to 1,600*F)
  • Boost gauge (0 to 35 PSI)
  • Fuel Pressure (0 to 30 PSI)
  • Transmission Temp (100 to 280*F) - Even on manuals.

 

Boost gauge would let you know if there is boost issues, wastegate malfunctions, Overboost, Boost leaks, etc. Always good to monitor boost pressure. I tend to like brass being its self sealing and doesn't require thread sealant. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
MyOle2500

MyOle2500

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Just wanted to give an update,

 

The big line kit and gauge went in, everything is working great and no leaks!!  The gauge looks and works great, and I know the 1/2” big line kit has to be flowing more fuel (easier anyway).

 

Now the down side......

 

The dealer installed in-tank pump is delivering 8 psi at idle and 6 psi at WOT and 7 psi at cruise RPM.  I kind of expected this but really hoped for 10 psi.  Looks like a FASS is in the future.

 

One question I do have, does the gauge bounce slowly (.5 psi variance, maybe 1 psi tops) when idling and a little at cruise RPM?  I have a snubber and needle valve at roughly 1/8 turn open.  Also, 4.5’ of 1/4” hose (long story) between my needle valve at the T on the big line kit and the sender unit.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks!! 

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Bullet

Bullet

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1 hour ago, MyOle2500 said:

Just wanted to give an update,

 

The big line kit and gauge went in, everything is working great and no leaks!!  The gauge looks and works great, and I know the 1/2” big line kit has to be flowing more fuel (easier anyway).

 

Now the down side......

 

The dealer installed in-tank pump is delivering 8 psi at idle and 6 psi at WOT and 7 psi at cruise RPM.  I kind of expected this but really hoped for 10 psi.  Looks like a FASS is in the future.

 

One question I do have, does the gauge bounce slowly (.5 psi variance, maybe 1 psi tops) when idling and a little at cruise RPM?  I have a snubber and needle valve at roughly 1/8 turn open.  Also, 4.5’ of 1/4” hose (long story) between my needle valve at the T on the big line kit and the sender unit.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks!! 

Yeah that sounds about right.  Mine bounces about the same...no problems.  I would consider a mechanical lift pump before I looked at another electric.  Do your research on both types before purchasing...I did and ended up going with a Fuel Boss mechanical pump with no regrets. 

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  • 10 months later...
my99ram

my99ram

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On 8/14/2019 at 8:11 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

PTC fittings. Push To Connect fittings.

 

No ferrels, no compression nut. PTC are seal sealing and work very well for low pressure applications. 

 

Image result for push to connect fittings

 

Reusable. If there is any tubing problems you can just simply push the collar back to release the tubing. Not you can trim off the bad part or just replace. Push the tubing back in and it self seals and locks.

My NAPA doesn't have this but I found this.  Is it the same?  https://trimantec.com/products/airtac-npc-push-to-connect-fitting-male-connector-npc1-4-3-8?variant=31806281416757&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&msclkid=9f082587d71918f23d597ab93b78b62a

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