Recommendations

[Steve31]

Ram 2500 2wd I really don’t do a lot of towing atm 

Right now I have dap 100hp injectors my quadzilla is on it’s way back with v2 update and I got a buddy that’s local that has a new hx40 on the shelf that he said he could swap exhaust housings on for me for $500

my question is do I need to go with head studs 

Edited February 14, 2020 by Steve31

[Me78569]

If your intention is the run it hard then yes.

[Steve31]

Not really, it’s more of a daily just want it to have spunk to wax out a Chevy once in awhile lol

 

[Me78569]

If it was me I would run studs.

[Mopar1973Man]

Same, I would run studs. 425 ARP studs now and upwards of 47 PSI for boost. Somewhere around 500 HP.

 

Ahhh... Here is the link to all my mods.

https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

[Dieselfuture]

I would spend the money on studs and skip xh40, save more and get something like 62/68/12 or 14 s362 I believe. For now guessing you have xh35,?, 100hp injectors and qwadzila will be pretty fun too.

[Mopar1973Man]

15 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

save more and get something like 62/68/12 or 14 s362 I believe.

I want to do the 62/68/12 so bad yet... Current the HX325/40 I'm running is 60/60/12 which is close to HE351 turbo from a 3rd gen.

[Dieselfuture]

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I want to do the 62/68/12 so bad yet... Current the HX325/40 I'm running is 60/60/12 which is close to HE351 turbo from a 3rd gen.

If someone didn't blow all the money on lights

[Steve31]

The guy told he built a turbo for his buddy it was something like an hx40 with a banks exhaust housing for a 12v that was just nasty

and spooled super fast,

so is a 35/40 turbo not worth the money?

i was just looking to get a reliable 30ish psi

didnt want to push the ole 300k mike goat to hard ?

[Evan]

62 65 14 with 7x009 without studs plus smarty.

 

Truck not driven hard and does tow.

 

62 65 14 is roughly the same s 62 68 12.

 

Glad I went this route over the hx40. I'm in the s300 with 3rd gen forward facing housing about 700 bucks with stainless diesel intake tube and boots. 

My turbo install was a goat rope because I accidentally ordered the 3rd gen style with 4.4" exhaust outlet.  I also fabbed  4.4 down pipe.

 

Nothing about my set was a bolt on affair for my 2nd gen. But somehow worked 

 

This set up spools extremely well. Compared even to how the hy35 spools and makes numbers well over 30psi with no egt issues even pulling 18k

Edited February 14, 2020 by Evan

[Mopar1973Man]

27 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

If someone didn't blow all the money on lights

 

3 years ago... But worth every penny.

[Steve31]

If I’m understanding right, no studs your pretty much limited to 30ish psi 

what kinda timing? 22-25* to keep the gasket from playing peek a boo

[Dieselfuture]

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

3 years ago... But worth every penny.

They sure do, I was just giving you crap.

[Mopar1973Man]

Actually stock can handle quite a bit. I was upwards of 25 and 27 degrees of timing yet. It between the boost pressure and the timing. Figure the boost pressure 30 PSI being compressed is 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Then add lots of timing that is enough to spike cylinder pressures. But timing is based on nozzle size, pop pressure, and a few other factors like cetane... So the timing number will vary because of the other factors.

[Evan]

I've seen 40psi without making the head gasket blowout.

But thts upper rpm pulling grades normal driving I rarely even see 30

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Same I was making 45 PSI and still holding the gasket too. My gasket failure was rear passenger side coolant jacket. I'm going to say I over extended my coolant change a few times. 

[Dieselfuture]

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm going to say I over extended my coolant change a few times. 

I'll disagree and say it happened of old age. Seems a lot of hg failures lately. All trucks are getting old. Jmo

[Steve31]

24 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Actually stock can handle quite a bit. I was upwards of 25 and 27 degrees of timing yet. It between the boost pressure and the timing. Figure the boost pressure 30 PSI being compressed is 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Then add lots of timing that is enough to spike cylinder pressures. But timing is based on nozzle size, pop pressure, and a few other factors like cetane... So the timing number will vary because of the other factors.

Ok I can tell you I was there when my injectors where assembled pop pressure is spot on at stock guide lines with dap 100hp nozzles

[Mopar1973Man]

10 minutes ago, Steve31 said:

Ok I can tell you I was there when my injectors where assembled pop pressure is spot on at stock guide lines with dap 100hp nozzles

 

Right from the FSM.

 

 

So stock is 310 bar. The bottom end is 293 bar. Within about 20k to 40k miles you can lose up to 10 bar with everything settling. Few member here have seen this. 

 

Range of use is...

• Lower limit is 4,250 PSI which is equal to 293 bar.
• STOCK - 4,500 PSI which is equal to 310 bar.
• Upper limit is 4,750 PSI which is equal to 327 bar.

Like my 7 x 0.010 were popped at 320 bar (+10 bar over stock). This gave a good bump in MPG and reduced smoke. Some will argue that increasing pop reduces flow some. Then it also affects timing as well making it retarded you can make that up on a Quadzilla though. 

 

Another way to check pop pressure...

 

This method does work and found several truck with zero engine load and idle RPM above 800 RPM's. This is because the injector is opening too early and flowing too much fuel. The ECM and VP44 can't defuel any more. Hence the pop pressure is most likely below 280 bar at this point.

[Steve31]

Mine were set at 310bar ...all 6 the guy was real picky and wanted the exact number on all 6

my quad should be back home today I’ll hook up the laptop and check the above and post it

Edited February 14, 2020 by Steve31