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Ram 2500 2wd I really don’t do a lot of towing atm 

Right now I have dap 100hp injectors my quadzilla is on it’s way back with v2 update and I got a buddy that’s local that has a new hx40 on the shelf that he said he could swap exhaust housings on for me for $500

my question is do I need to go with head studs 

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The guy told he built a turbo for his buddy it was something like an hx40 with a banks exhaust housing for a 12v that was just nasty

and spooled super fast,

so is a 35/40 turbo not worth the money?

i was just looking to get a reliable 30ish psi

didnt want to push the ole 300k mike goat to hard ?

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62 65 14 with 7x009 without studs plus smarty.

 

Truck not driven hard and does tow.

 

62 65 14 is roughly the same s 62 68 12.

 

Glad I went this route over the hx40. I'm in the s300 with 3rd gen forward facing housing about 700 bucks with stainless diesel intake tube and boots. 

My turbo install was a goat rope because I accidentally ordered the 3rd gen style with 4.4" exhaust outlet.  I also fabbed  4.4 down pipe.

 

Nothing about my set was a bolt on affair for my 2nd gen. But somehow worked 

 

This set up spools extremely well. Compared even to how the hy35 spools and makes numbers well over 30psi with no egt issues even pulling 18k

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Actually stock can handle quite a bit. I was upwards of 25 and 27 degrees of timing yet. It between the boost pressure and the timing. Figure the boost pressure 30 PSI being compressed is 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Then add lots of timing that is enough to spike cylinder pressures. But timing is based on nozzle size, pop pressure, and a few other factors like cetane... So the timing number will vary because of the other factors.

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24 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Actually stock can handle quite a bit. I was upwards of 25 and 27 degrees of timing yet. It between the boost pressure and the timing. Figure the boost pressure 30 PSI being compressed is 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Then add lots of timing that is enough to spike cylinder pressures. But timing is based on nozzle size, pop pressure, and a few other factors like cetane... So the timing number will vary because of the other factors.

Ok I can tell you I was there when my injectors where assembled pop pressure is spot on at stock guide lines with dap 100hp nozzles

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10 minutes ago, Steve31 said:

Ok I can tell you I was there when my injectors where assembled pop pressure is spot on at stock guide lines with dap 100hp nozzles

 

Right from the FSM.

 

fuel-pressure-specs.jpg

 

So stock is 310 bar. The bottom end is 293 bar. Within about 20k to 40k miles you can lose up to 10 bar with everything settling. Few member here have seen this. 

 

Range of use is...

  • Lower limit is 4,250 PSI which is equal to 293 bar.
  • STOCK - 4,500 PSI which is equal to 310 bar.
  • Upper limit is 4,750 PSI which is equal to 327 bar.

Like my 7 x 0.010 were popped at 320 bar (+10 bar over stock). This gave a good bump in MPG and reduced smoke. Some will argue that increasing pop reduces flow some. Then it also affects timing as well making it retarded you can make that up on a Quadzilla though. 

 

Another way to check pop pressure...

 

This method does work and found several truck with zero engine load and idle RPM above 800 RPM's. This is because the injector is opening too early and flowing too much fuel. The ECM and VP44 can't defuel any more. Hence the pop pressure is most likely below 280 bar at this point.

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