Driving home today and my fuel pressure went to zero instantly. Been noticing fluctuations in pressure. Changed FF and WS a month or so ago and had same issue. Going to check it out tomorrow. Have also had an issue with losing pressure at half tank. Think the draw straw may have an issue so I plan on lifting the bed. Is it better to tip it from the cab end, leaving bolts loose in rear or tip it from driver's side leaving bolts loose in passenger side? Don't have help available to fully remove bed and tank was filled 40 miles ago so don't want to remove it.

Problem is the bed lift you need at least a good 1 to 2 feet clearance to lift the sender basket out. Once the sender ring is loosen it will stand up even more being the spring will push up. Now the total length of the sender will require that 1 to 2 foot clearance ti lift out without damage the sender float arm. 

Well that sucks. Guess I'll siphon what I can and drop the tank. I hate working on gravel. Maybe I'll get a sheet of plywood and mitigate some pain.

35 minutes ago, Max Tune said:

Well that sucks. Guess I'll siphon what I can and drop the tank. I hate working on gravel. Maybe I'll get a sheet of plywood and mitigate some pain.

I feel your pain. Gravel is all I have too. Plywood does make it easier on the body.

Empty tank is a awkward thing to work with but empty its very easy to handle. I just replaced my fuel sender last month took about an hour to drain the tank into buckets, unbolt the tank, drop it down and then install the new sender and re-install. 

I have a flat bed, I have more then enough room to remove the sending unit without completely dropping the tank, I just lower the half towards the front of the truck with a floor jack,  while still hooked up in the back. I almost had enough room to do it without the tank dropped at all!

If you have a bed mounted fifth wheel or gooseneck, bed tilting is a no go unless you like removing and reinstalling those mounts.

 

If no bed mounted hitch, the following will work:

 

Remove DS bolts and loosen PS bolts (just a few turns holding).  Loosen exhaust to lower it in the rear.  Disconnect the fuel fill and breather hoses.  Remove any ground straps, etc. that will impede bed lifting.  Remove spare tire and lift tube that goes through the rear crossmember.  Disconnect rear wiring connections and conduit from clips to allow slack.  Use a bottle jack and wood (2x8s) blocks on top of DS tire and against inside top of wheel well.  As you lift the bed, place blocks between frame and bed and you will have plenty of room to pull the sender right out of the top of the tank.  Don't force it -- if it doesn't tilt easily look for any missed fasteners, wire looms, etc.  The bed will tilt nearly 45 degrees if you need it.

 

Joe

The 20a fuse was popped. Didn't have any so I put in a 15 and it popped instantly. Put in a 30 and pump ran. Only ran it about 10 seconds to verify that the pump wasn't seized. Went and got 20 and 25 amp fuses. 20 amp lasted about 45 seconds. 25 lasted little over a minute and got very hot to the touch. Being that I have been experiencing a slow and continuous drop in pressure over the past few months I'm guessing it's time for a new pump.

Also, with the airdog quick connect fittings being on here I'm thinking dropping the tank will probably be less of a fiasco than tipping the bed. Will make it easier to do everything without laying on the tires worrying about the bed falling on me....lol

3G motor... The bearings failed because the pump shaft seal started leaking washed out the bearings with diesel fuel and then it partial seized up and popped the fuse. 

 

I jumped to the 4G motor from AirDog and never looked back. The 4G 165 Pump head will fit the body of the 2nd and 3rd gen filter base. The 4G AirDog pump is a double seal shaft with double bearings. 

I can order just the motor assembly? 

Didn't see that option on airdogs site.

7 minutes ago, Max Tune said:

I can order just the motor assembly? 

Didn't see that option on airdogs site.

You might still have warranty on it too, worth checking. If not then they should be able to sell you just the motor.

16 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

You might still have warranty on it too, worth checking. If not then they should be able to sell you just the motor.

I may have missed it or read it wrong on airdogs site, but the lifetime warranty seemed to be to the original purchaser. I've had this truck for 2 years now. Think I'll just buy a complete new pump to get warranty as I don't plan on selling it. I'm going to call and see if the airdog II has all the same connections as original airdog. If so, I'll go with the updated pump. If not, I'll just replace with what I have to keep it simple.

I'd get a mechanical one if you're getting a new pump, jmo

my fuel boss doesnt have any issues....

 

I would probably go mechanical myself if this one fails again. Even though AD warrantied both them. I mas also lucky that my company was footing the hotel bill both times mine went out for work.