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I say sure poop happens, and no we don't have to go to a different store to correct the issues, but and this is a big but... like plastic surgery big, once we make our complaints known, we can only hope that they work them selves up the ladder to the source so it gets corrected. If it doesn't, then nothing is going to help any of us in the long run and crap will keep being made cheaper if we keep buying it. Wee can make a difference if we try, but it's getting harder to do as the years go by. Seems that nothing is made to last any longer, 10 years tops. No big outfit is thinking long term for second and third owners anymore, it's all about quarterly sales now make it look good on the books. So yes we can make a difference but need to be making sure our thoughtsoney are getting higher than a salesman. How do we do that is another subject, I'm not too bright for that. 

To add to this, at work I hired a contractor to do some work for us. It took them 20 minutes on site, I get a bill for 2 hours at 350 an hour. I called the owner and said me and you been in this together for 12 years now, how do you think I feel when I see this bill. Long story short, he's adjusting his invoice to make it right. Still I shouldn't remind him of this. How else do make it right. Others are by far worse at what they do and more dishonest. It sucks but if we don't say anything then nothing will get better.

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16 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

@Mopar1973Man, do you think that the sycro failures, even though defective, would have lasted longer behind an engine with less hp/tq than what your putting out?

 

Didn't even last 1,000 miles. Power was not the cause. Still got the same power and same brass syncro no issues. AH64ID will say my fluid is the cause of the failure. Nope. Not at all Again I tried to change to something different and like Abe told me if I don't choice from his list of fluids the warranty would be void at that point. I've had really good service from the Mobil 50 trans fluid it is thicker but it clings to the bearing and gears much better than the factory fluid that was watery and thin. Still its a quality synthetic and its is GL-4 rated.

 

Now when you study guys that do true racing and using higher power than me the stock or factory fluids have to be changed out for thicker fluids for protection. Thinner fluids do promote better shift quality but thicker actually clings to gears and bearing much better under heat. The only thing that is bad is come winter my transmission temp falls to near 100*F or lower most days so the fluid is thick, hence why I don't want FAST coolers it would make things much worse.

 

-20F-outside-temp.jpg

 

Still zero shifting issues at even -20*F to -30*F I've seen last winter. Then flip to 110 to 130*F in Arizona trans temp was still below 200*F easy even pulling my RV on a 7% grade in Arizona heat. 

 

The problem is Autozone is is either a trip to Lewiston or Boise (whole day lost - 6 hours driving), O'Rilley's again a trip to Lewiston or Boise (whole day lost 6 hours driving), etc. Again the only local part store I've got is NAPA on in McCall is 70 miles round trip or to Concil, ID which is 104 mile round trip. I've also got a delivery to the house on Tuesdays I just gotta call Kevin in Council and it on my door step in the morning on Tuesday. All shops up here typically use 99% NAPA parts there is nothing else. Just like the Chevron station in Town yup, NAPA only. 

 

How do I know this so well. I just left for Lewiston, Idaho yesterday for food shopping and by the time I got done with everything and got home its 8pm. Mostly food but I did stop and get a jug of Synthetic oil (5w-20) for Eileen's car and a NAPA filter. Did not really save much on the parts but since I was in town why not get it. (Outside my network - different owner) 

 

My account with NAPA (Council - McCall) I get some pretty good discounts. I bought 4 gallons of standard green anti-freeze (NAPA) for $5.99 a gallon. Even done a coolant flush on a 6.7L not to long ago and it requires Dexcool I got is for $8.99 a gallon. My discounts are past on to me by the amount of parts I buy per month. More parts, better discounts. I've done it a few times buy my oil for my truck and get the oil filter for free. 

 

Here is current public price... For 3 gallons would of been $56.97 before taxes. 

Screenshot from 2020-11-20 06-08-58.png

 

Then what I paid for it... $8.99 a gallon for $26.97 before taxes! Saving of $30.00 even! Absolutely nothing wrong with NAPA goods... For me, better prices! 

DSCF5103.JPG

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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 Those are some good savings over regular price. I should talk to my local napa store about an account. They have asked if I wanted one several times. Might take them up on it. 

 We buy plenty of stuff for not just vehicles but we also have a small farm, several tractors and other equipment to maintain. Most if the tractors are antique and napa is pretty good about locating parts for them as well.

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:iagree:While I do like the 5600, if going for a change to it you have to weigh the options. The 5600 is definitely a bigger expense to get into. I am sure I paid a bit of a premium for it when I bought the truck. Just like the $5k extra I paid for the Cummins.

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Freight is slow now... I'm still waiting on my pedal assembly for the other 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke I'm working on too. Shipping is slower with people getting sick with COVID and lack of crews now to move packages. Heck I ordered a brand new LG dishwasher on Thursday it will be sometime in February before Home Depot has it in stock.

 

Yeah I did a bit of digging even on my part the price differences between a NV4500 and NV5600 are insane. Still the NV4500 is cheap and more common for parts. You could upgrade the NV4500 input shaft to a NV5600 input shaft. Even with all I've done I've Never broke the input shaft. Never had a 5th gear nut issues either. Don't let that turn you away. As for bearing failure from lube never happened yet. Metal fatigue... Yup plenty of that. First was the mainshaft that broke at 3rd/4th gear. Had the OEM shaft replace with a Torque King Upgrade shaft. The 5th gear bottom was replace because the hard face was wore through. Then pilot bearing fell out of the flywheel on to the input shaft ate the input shaft bearing and the tip of the mainshaft. Which put stress on the 5th gear since the top gear was OE yet stress took the teeth off. Never had a oil failure yet. 423k miles and ticking...

 

I would still hold on to the NV4500 and then take the driver side PTO cover off and install 1/8" NPT bung and install a trans temp gauge. With the amount of heat in Texas you would be a good candidate for the Mobil 50 SAE Trans Fluid. Basically its straight 90 weight gear lube. GL-4 rated synthetic. With the Texas heat you should stay away from thinner fluids. Still don't use any FAST coolers yet too. Winter time my trans temp stay pretty low mostly below 100°F in the winter. My typical summer trans temp floats 140 to 160°F without coolers. Even towing I rarely get above 180°F. Even in Arizona topped out at 200°F on a 7% grade in 110°F weather. Little warm for my liking but nothing dangerous. Got get past 230°F to be dangerous.

 

Then when I upgrade from 265's (31.6" tires) to 245's (30.5" tires) it reduce stress on the transmission and driveline. Changed the final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 This mod change the trans temps and made them cooler. Made more power towing on grades with less heat. At 66 MPH I'm a prefect 2,000 RPM

 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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