Nv4500 getting harder to get into gear

[Doubletrouble]

 No, the bleed screw is still on the top of the slave unless you mount it upside down. The problem is the line from the master goes down then does a 180 and turns up then across the top of the firewall and the turns down again to go to the slave. Air gets trapped in the horizontal run at the top of the firewall and it's hard to get out.

[dripley]

Neither my factory master and slave had any way to bleed them. My first install of the failed master I did on my own. Scratched my mead alot trying to figure how bleed it. I ended up filling it with as much fluid as I could get in it and hooked it it back up. Took at least month before the worked it self out of everything. It seemed to me at the time that the air was trapped in the dip in the line.   But a good bit pumping for the next few weeks got the air out. This last time I was able to get the line partially out to where I could fill the master from outlet and not have to turn it over to connect it. That worked much better but there was still a little air on the inlet side of the master. It worked much better that way. The after market slave that I have now does have a bleeder screw on it but at the time I had no one to help bleed it. At least that is how I did mine. 

[wil440]

Would it not be easier just to make a new pipe that doesn't have a air trap in it ? or am I just missing the point somewhere ?? it would only ~~ss me off the once. I do my brake bleeding on my own using a snap on 24" breaker bar, fits nicely beween pedal and seat front or pedal and steering wheel

[dripley]

A couple years after changing the first one I found out that the whole system was supposed to be replaced with a pre bled unit which I thought was crazy. Thought the first change was PITA it proved to me you could swap in just one. part. Thats why I fought that trap out to where I could install the new master without having to turn the master with the outlet down, loosing some of the fluid. It worked this time as I did not have pump the clutch to get it into gear. I still had push it down to floor hard for the first few days but got to good point in just a few more days. I probably would not modify mine after this time. It seemed to work pretty good. Not knocking @Mopar1973Man's method either it seems to work too.

I also always thought the trap in that line helped keep the air from moving further down the line. At least that is what I told myself.

[Doubletrouble]

 I think next time around I will have to buy the kit. The end of the line to the slave was corroded and will most likely have to be replaced by the time I have to mess with it again.

 I took her for a drive down the road and back. Clutch pedal feels good. Clutch engages about half way as you bring the pedal up. What a difference. Now just have to get used to the new clutch feel. 

[Mopar1973Man]

That's why I don't use the bleeder style. Trying to force air to travel downward against it will is just plain crazy. Air will always travel up to the highest point. Pull the entire system out and hang. Then press the slave in fast and release slowly. The air will be forced up and return to the reservoir. Instead of pumping like mad to attempt to push it out of bleeder on the slave at the very bottom. I've done a few re-bleeds with master still installed but pull most of the line straight and do the same thing. Still easier to push air UP than down.

[Doubletrouble]

 Been several days now since I finished this repair. Seems that the engagement has moved slightly. She now engages closer to the top of the pedal travel. I don't know if this means that a new clutch is on the horizon or if this is considered normal. Everything feels fine while driving. Slides into and out if the gears just fine, no noise or weird feeling to it. Nice and smooth, just engages a little high. Any thoughts?

[Mopar1973Man]

56 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

Everything feels fine while driving. Slides into and out if the gears just fine, no noise or weird feeling to it. Nice and smooth, just engages a little high. Any thoughts?

 

Just like the Valair dual disc in the 2006 Dodge is a top of the pedal engagement. Yes I can adjust the pedal a little bit that hyper-extending is real and can happen. But on the 2006 its a royal PITA to adjust with that stupid plastic pin to push out.

Edited April 22, 2021 by Mopar1973Man

[wil440]

Just a thought, has anyone tried to reverse bleed using the brakes, assuming of course the fluid is the same, just connect the nearest front caliper bleed nipple to the bleed on the clutch slave with a peice of clear tubing, open both and very slowly press the brake pedal, if not very slowly then what happens is the tubing gets blown off, also lid off of the clutch master 

Of course a pressure bleed pump does the same but it is a cost to buy, tubing is nearly free

Here some Ford transits are hard to bleed the clutch and this works every time

[Mopar1973Man]

Been using a mayo jar and vinyl tubing for years. Tubing has to have snug fit.