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APPS TPS failure expectation

beautifulisblue
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JAG1

JAG1

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A good shop won't know any more than you and Mopar1973 Man. I cannot trust diesel shops any longer. Seen some nightmares. Only one had ever passed my short quiz of questions.

 

Have you been running 2 stroke already?

 

I would also check filters for water in the bottom.

 

There was one time that I got a dead pedal for about 3 seconds. I went to a shop that could read the acceleration graph on a SNAP ON reader while running and found a very small dead spot in the factory APPS. I carried a Timbo behind the seat and had him change it. No more problems since. That was about 10 yrs ago.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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My Timbo APPS is quite old and been going for over 250k miles. 

 

APPS failure is typically dead pedal and or P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes. This can be seen with a live data tool as TPS signal goes to ZERO or 100% even thought your not actually in that position of the throttle.

 

VP44 typically will dead pedal or limited pedal without setting any error codes. This is because the PSG is not translating the data from the ECM properly. Only way to test this is replace the VP44.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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beautifulisblue

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44 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

A good shop won't know any more than you and Mopar1973 Man. I cannot trust diesel shops any longer. Seen some nightmares. Only one had ever passed my short quiz of questions.

 

Have you been running 2 stroke already?

 

I would also check filters for water in the bottom.

 

There was one time that I got a dead pedal for about 3 seconds. I went to a shop that could read the acceleration graph on a SNAP ON reader while running and found a very small dead spot in the factory APPS. I carried a Timbo behind the seat and had him change it. No more problems since. That was about 10 yrs ago.

Thanks.

No 2 stroke, how much are you adding? 

 

If I get to salt lake I can drop it off at my father in laws shop, he's pulling out other trailer up there with me.

 

I'll check for water.  Was going to do a fuel filter and oil change before I left.

 

I got a fault I'm companion module code p1063.  Waiting on a code reader to get delivered today.

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beautifulisblue

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49 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

2001 key trick only reads the PCM. Hence why you see P1693 code. The error is on the ECM.

 

2002 model year is the only year the reports both ECM and PCM on a key trick.

Copy, that was my edge ct2.  Hopefully the scanner I ordered will give me a better read.

 

I'm an electrical dummy is there a multimeter y'all would recommend to check for AC noise that I could pick up somewhere like Lowe's or Napa?

 

The only other random thing that popped into my mind was about 2 months ago I turned off the truck and it kept running.  Never had it happen before or since and I ended up unplugging the edge box and it turned off....

Edited by beautifulisblue
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beautifulisblue

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13 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I would ditch the Edge and go for a ride. If the module is bad (hardware and/or software) could be causing these issues. Now if you fully unplug all the Edge and go for a ride and no issues I would have to say your Edge died...

Gotcha.  

I'll give that a try although I'll miss my EGT gauge.   The hard part on this is it seems to happen every couple of thousand miles.

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beautifulisblue

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So I unplugged the juice module cruise down the street to get a sandwich and had a maximum of maybe 1/4 throttle.

 

Plugged it back in for the drive home and drove normal, is that me not resetting it correctly?

Edit:. Got my scanner, pulled a P0237 code.  Saw a list of things from Mopar1973man on a previous post

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beautifulisblue

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I forgot that the edge juice had a map sensor plug adapter.  I unplugged all that plug the original map sensor in unplugged the edge juice reset the codes and went for a drive.

Didn't get any codes but time will tell.  Wow what a difference that truck makes without the tuner even running the tuner on zero and one seems like a big jump from stock.

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Mopar1973Man

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As for the AC noise problem... You need a digital multimeter that can measure down to mV AC. Typically found on high quality meters like Fluke. So basically measure the AC voltage at the charge stud of the alternator and ground. Should be 50mV AC or less. After the W-T ground mod it will drop below 15mV AC. Again look at the meter and be sure it got a setting for mV AC.

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beautifulisblue

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2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for the AC noise problem... You need a digital multimeter that can measure down to mV AC. Typically found on high quality meters like Fluke. So basically measure the AC voltage at the charge stud of the alternator and ground. Should be 50mV AC or less. After the W-T ground mod it will drop below 15mV AC. Again look at the meter and be sure it got a setting for mV AC.

Nice, I'm thinking this would do the trick? 

 https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B00HE6MIJY/ref=asc_df_B00HE6MIJY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366343882692&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10264633338135990573&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030767&hvtargid=pla-434551935004&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76503872296&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366343882692&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10264633338135990573&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030767&hvtargid=pla-434551935004

 

We're moving to Cascade Idaho for a bit to FS housing, a 1930s ranger house.  Planning to buy in Donnelly since my wife and I work for the FS.  If we move there we can work in McCall or Cascade or New Meadows and never have to move again for work.....

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beautifulisblue

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Got the truck good and warmed up.  Put the meter on the alternator.

.008-.01 on the Battery, .019 on the alternator, although every 15 seconds or so it would jump up to .025-.030, then settle back to .019-.021 fairly quickly.  Not sure if that was my hand etc...  All accessories off.

 

I called NAPA and they had one in stock, will try to stop by tonight or the morning and swap it out.

Edited by beautifulisblue
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beautifulisblue

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32 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

You're grids were cycling, you need to have it up to temp shut everything off drive around a block faster than 20 mph then come back and without shutting off the truck check ac at alternator only.

Perfect timing I had just pulled in the driveway.  Did the cruise around the block and got the same original data minus the spike on the alternator side.  

 

Ran over to Napa to swap it but the parts guy was running late have to do it in the morning.

Edited by beautifulisblue
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