Rear door mechanism adjustment

[Ravewolf]

So I've been slowly redoing all my interior on my truck, and I've almost got everything fixed, except the driver side rear door. It has a new cable, and Ive cleaned and greased the ever loving hell out of the mechanisms, but the inside handle still won't open without help from the outside handle. It just literally needs maybe a 1/16th more of movement on the inside handle. The outside handle will open flawlessly (two fingers to open it). I have looked inside and saw the rods have threads on them, but idk how to adjust it, or if I even can? Does anyone know how to do this?

[Haggar]

if the main latch works, the rods are ok.

you need to look closely at your cable.  (the inside latch pulls the cable to work the latch.)

 

 

notice where the cable end attaches to the latch. (circled in red)   is it broken.  This is the most common failure.  The cable housing becomes loose, so when you pull the cable, you lose stroke of the cable because the cable housing moves also. 

 

I just fixed these on my 99 F 250.  (it looks like the cable ends for fixing a ford will work on these trucks too, but cannot confirm)

 

Pull the lower door panel and work the inside latch and see what is wonky.

 

GL   HTH

Hag

here is a video of the latch working and the trouble this guy had, which was a loose  pivot.

 

 

[Silverwolf2691]

For starters, are you sure you didn't break the brand new cable? I ask this not as insult but because the angle of the cable sheath has a very high load where it connects to the latch mechanism. a slight knock in the wrong direction could snap the tiny flange that the mechanism locks into. I've never heard of anybody adjusting any thing in the doors, mostly because the inner handle doesn't actuate the latches directly. It actuates the outer door handle, which then actuates the latches. (I'm going off of memory from my 1500.. been a few years lol)    

[Ravewolf]

9 hours ago, Haggar said:

if the main latch works, the rods are ok.

you need to look closely at your cable.  (the inside latch pulls the cable to work the latch.)

 

 

notice where the cable end attaches to the latch. (circled in red)   is it broken.  This is the most common failure.  The cable housing becomes loose, so when you pull the cable, you lose stroke of the cable because the cable housing moves also. 

 

I just fixed these on my 99 F 250.  (it looks like the cable ends for fixing a ford will work on these trucks too, but cannot confirm)

 

Pull the lower door panel and work the inside latch and see what is wonky.

 

GL   HTH

Hag

here is a video of the latch working and the trouble this guy had, which was a loose  pivot.

 

 

I checked all that, the mechanism was ok. 

7 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

For starters, are you sure you didn't break the brand new cable? I ask this not as insult but because the angle of the cable sheath has a very high load where it connects to the latch mechanism. a slight knock in the wrong direction could snap the tiny flange that the mechanism locks into. I've never heard of anybody adjusting any thing in the doors, mostly because the inner handle doesn't actuate the latches directly. It actuates the outer door handle, which then actuates the latches. (I'm going off of memory from my 1500.. been a few years lol)    

Has a brand new cable. I thought it was adjustable because the rods had screws on them. 

I did tighten up the little bolt in the middle of the mechanism, but like I said, it just needs that extra little bit to open. I'll play with it some more later when I get time and see if I can get it to open from the inside. I thought about just trimming the stops on the inside handle to get the extra little bit I need if I couldn't adjust it

[Silverwolf2691]

There is a chance that the inner cable itself is just that hair too long.

 

Im gonna double check the door panel i have and see if theres anything to adjust

[01_Cummins_4x4]

I just fixed my driver's side rear door by tightening up the cam plate bolt on the cam plate that operates the upper and lower latch rods. Mine cam plate bolt was almost ready to fall out. Once I tightened it up to the point that the cam plate could still move but it was tighter, then I could open the rear door like normal again.

[Ravewolf]

8 minutes ago, 01_Cummins_4x4 said:

I just fixed my driver's side rear door by tightening up the cam plate bolt on the cam plate that operates the upper and lower latch rods. Mine cam plate bolt was almost ready to fall out. Once I tightened it up to the point that the cam plate could still move but it was tighter, then I could open the rear door like normal again.

Tried that, still no dice. I think the cable is a bit too long. So I'm gonna have to modify the handle to make up for it. On a side note, I hate Dorman. They can make junk pretty good. But not parts. 

[Silverwolf2691]

Dorman is definitely mixed bag.. 

[Ravewolf]

20 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Dorman is definitely mixed bag.. 

Not even a mixed bag. It's a bag of **** with a few peanuts in it. I work at O'Reillys here in town and we've had a bunch of warranties on their ****. Also on Ultima Starters. So if you guys need parts, spend the coin to get better **** from online. I do not recommend anything from O'Reillys other than wix. 

[Dieselfuture]

1 hour ago, Ravewolf said:

Not even a mixed bag. It's a bag of **** with a few peanuts in it. I work at O'Reillys here in town and we've had a bunch of warranties on their ****. Also on Ultima Starters. So if you guys need parts, spend the coin to get better **** from online. I do not recommend anything from O'Reillys other than wix. 

That's what I noticed too, funny I hardly get anything there any longer unless I'm in a pinch and most of time now they can't even find a right part in front of their face. Really shows new generation is clueless and careless, no offense, I'm sure you know your stuff but for the most part it's getting crappy with sales people not knowing difference from their butt and a hole in the ground. More and more mechanics are parts changers and won't spend few extra minutes to see what the problem is just replace things till you get it right. Smaller towns isn't bad few good dudes left. 

[Ravewolf]

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

That's what I noticed too, funny I hardly get anything there any longer unless I'm in a pinch and most of time now they can't even find a right part in front of their face. Really shows new generation is clueless and careless, no offense, I'm sure you know your stuff but for the most part it's getting crappy with sales people not knowing difference from their butt and a hole in the ground. More and more mechanics are parts changers and won't spend few extra minutes to see what the problem is just replace things till you get it right. Smaller towns isn't bad few good dudes left. 

Sadly, very true. I was going to school for a 2 year AAS degree in auto service, and was a gearhead since I was a kid. So I have an unfair advantage I guess. But also most of my friends were gear heads too. We all grew up poor fixing our own junk, had to. 

But I work with a 18yo kid who's a complete animal when it comes to cars. He gives me hope lol. 

[IBMobile]

Can you get one from a pick your part type yard?  That's where I got three of them last year.  The cable, part #55275106, is the same whether 1500, 2500, or 3500; left or right.   

 

I have a commercial account with O'Reilly auto parts and try to deal with one older associate at the commercial desk.  The prices are not cheap and still get the wrong parts.  At lest he doesn't ask me if I would like fries with that.

[Silverwolf2691]

Used to have my favorite places for parts.. Either I got to know the people there or at one point my friend work at an advance auto. Sadly, that was a few years ago and most people have since moved on. I don't generally get wrong parts, mostly I've gotten a few parts that were DOA (dead on arrival).