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little white yj 622

Auto transmission questions

15 posts in this topic

I posted this over at the cummins fourm and did not get any responce worth looing in to. i seem to get a more mature responce over here.

I have a used 01 24v with and auto transmission. I know they don’t last forever. I do not know what has been done to the truck. When I bought it had gauges pryo, boost, trans temp, and part of a bully dog security system. I tow very little. But it’s a jeep or fire wood when I do.

My question is when I add an edge comp what’s going to happen to my transmission. How bad can it be? Should I just let the TC blow? What happens when it goes? What about the clutch pack? I don’t know what work has been done to it. The car fax said that it was in the shop twice for trans trouble, replaced switch. When I first got the truck it was hard to put in to gear- found the linkages rusted up. That’s fixed

the TC is not painted or has any names on it.

Should I go until its blows, if it blows or upgrade first.

when i bought the truck i was keeping in mind putting 4-6k in the transmssion anyhow but that on my charge card and i dont want to unless i have too.

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In most circles people agree that 100 to 150 more hp is the limit for factory trannys.Now that all depends on how you drive to a point.If you have bigger injectors the box will hit harder.If it was me i would be nice to it with the box on.The tranny guy here is 3500 to 5 grand for billit input and all upgrades.His super tranny job will hold 800 hp.If you add a rad box forget it.If you add a tranny lock up switch forget it.Factory trannys will not put up with that stuff. I dont know your plans on how many beatings your going to give it.A single disc tq converter is week on hole shots.I killed a first gen suncoast tranny with a rad box.It had a single disc converter.As far as what could happen? I dont know but it is going to hurt:spend:

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Throw an aftermarket converter and Valve body in it and forget it. If you run it until it dies you have then contaminated the system and then are looking at a tear down and refresh. Do it before and you will get many more happy miles out of it.

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Hey Well sounds like the exact road I was on (still am on ?) ........ and your right about CF compared to here. If your tranny fluid looks good, and its holding and shifting well now - I say keep your stock tranny and buy a shift kit $100 and a single disk revmaax tc $400.Then you should be able to hold MOST of the power of the edge. And depedning on the clutches you might get 1 year or 3 years.In mean time save up. Then buy a fully built tranny - anywhere from $2500 to $5000k depending on how much you wanna spend and how much you wanna through at it. !!Thats it :thumbup2:$400 - is not much and gives you a chance to save $3k-$5k.Now if you have to pay to have all the work done (tranny drop and reinstall and valve body/shift kit work etc) then get the edge ..... muck around with it until it starts slipping bad - and then get a shop to put in a built one for you.I recommend revvmax and performanceinnovations for value $2500or goerand for high end ($4-$5k).Cat alaso knows a guy who builds tranny's for $1200. He sounds awesome. But you wuld have to log on freight and get you tranny to him (downtime)Good luck :woot:

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I dont want to wast money. ...thinking.... if I put a single disk in and shift kit and it only last a year or three, why wast the money. On the other hand I dont know what TC it has in it. It may even have a valve body looks like the other two owners did tow with it. If I toast the transmission with the edge am i going to have a transmission to rebuid? how much will be left. I am not much of a lead foot. Just looking for a little more getty up. Miss my 06 duramax. But this thing:thumb1: is starting to grow on me. .....Thinking again.. if I can fined a tranmission for this then can try to rebuild it my self. Have all ways wanted to try it.

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I would get the comp and see if you can get the convertor to slip. If it doesnt slip then run it for as long as you can, if it slips put a good torque convertor and vb in it and be done.

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I dont want to wast money. ...thinking.... if I put a single disk in and shift kit and it only last a year or three, why wast the money.

Well - I looked at it this way. I don't know if I will have truck in 3 years - and my tranny with my new VB+TC might last that long. If it doesn't - its more likely to start slipping or break an input shaft. All I would need to do is drop my VB and TC out, ship off my tranny to be rebuilt ($1200+ship) and then reinstall with new clutches and harparts. So - I am not really out of pocket - as long as I do work myself - and I saved at least $1k, for now. Now having said that - do I stress my tranny will/may go in 6 months when I toe - yes. So on another hand having done it ALL the 1st time would have been a good option also. No guarentee that a new tranny won;t leave me stranded either - so I am just going to run this one until it breaks. Either way really works. Just depends on appetite for $$. IF you try to rebuild one you can pick up a good core for 200-300 (one is for sale here currenly) and yes that would be awesome (please post thread !! hahaha). Finally, the guys here - especially W+F above really helped me out a lot on tranny especially ........... its a great site for all really good views and advice - learning heaps:thumbup2:
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Having read this post all the way throuugh and a little background I'll give you my 2 sents worth:

Bought my 01 with 56k in the ticker, Got the bombing bug and started tweaking. I found the the stock tranny would hold 419HP fairly well w/o toeing! Yes I could slip the stock Torque convertor at any time if I stomped on it but the stock tranny held for daily driving. Now I'm close to 475 so something needed to be done!!!

Now my suggestion:

A good After market Convertor and VB is a must above 375 hp, but what do you really need depends on what you exspect out of your truck. Personally I had the Bombing bug and didn't know how far I would go. I was thinking Twins in the future. I went for the Big Bucks solusion. Full blown Sun Coast Drag Comp tranny!!

Triple lock Convertor @ 91% lockup REALLY Tight!!!!!!!

Billet Shafts and Cups

Kevlar clutches and additional clutches in the clutch packs

High Pressure VB tuned to my sspecs.

Yea the big bucks!!! This thing will snap your neck if you stomp on it and will pull your ___ out the bottom of the seat. I now have a tranny that I can Tow anything with out worry no matter how heavy it is. I can Sled pull if I wanted to, and even lay down 11:59 in the quarter. This thing pulls like a Manual and is as gentle as a caddy when your just cruising around town.

It all in what you want out of it and what you can spend on it. That being said not everyone can spend that kinda bucks on a tranny and I know that. Build you tranny according to what it's gonna do. A good single disk Tq Convertor from a reputable company can and will hold up to 400 hp as long as you have a good VB to support it. You can get a good match set from many places ( ie ATS, Sun Coast...) for right at $1200 for the set. Triple lock will cost you about 600 - 800 more. .

The tranny is the weak link in our trucks always has been, and one word to the wise, If you have stock clutches in your truck NEVER USE ANYTHING BUT AFT+4 otherwise you will EAT your clutches up. Only if you replace the clutches with Kevlars or Dextron rated clutches can you switch the fluid.

JG

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I have a BD Power Box which is the same as Edge Comp Box and I have only a rebuilt 47re stock tranny. It holds awesome. I have a few upgrades and dynoed at Industrial Injection at 402 hp(no tq reader). My tranny holds great and has none to minimum slip. If I were to upgrade, single disc converter and valve body would do. Unless you are looking at putting out 550 HP or more, you should be fine with just those upgrades. Key I feel is don't haul a$$ all the time if not needed and keep it as cool as possible. Good luck!

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Having read this post all the way throuugh and a little background I'll give you my 2 sents worth:

Bought my 01 with 56k in the ticker, Got the bombing bug and started tweaking. I found the the stock tranny would hold 419HP fairly well w/o toeing! Yes I could slip the stock Torque convertor at any time if I stomped on it but the stock tranny held for daily driving. Now I'm close to 475 so something needed to be done!!!

Now my suggestion:

A good After market Convertor and VB is a must above 375 hp, but what do you really need depends on what you exspect out of your truck. Personally I had the Bombing bug and didn't know how far I would go. I was thinking Twins in the future. I went for the Big Bucks solusion. Full blown Sun Coast Drag Comp tranny!!

Triple lock Convertor @ 91% lockup REALLY Tight!!!!!!!

Billet Shafts and Cups

Kevlar clutches and additional clutches in the clutch packs

High Pressure VB tuned to my sspecs.

Yea the big bucks!!! This thing will snap your neck if you stomp on it and will pull your ___ out the bottom of the seat. I now have a tranny that I can Tow anything with out worry no matter how heavy it is. I can Sled pull if I wanted to, and even lay down 11:59 in the quarter. This thing pulls like a Manual and is as gentle as a caddy when your just cruising around town.

It all in what you want out of it and what you can spend on it. That being said not everyone can spend that kinda bucks on a tranny and I know that. Build you tranny according to what it's gonna do. A good single disk Tq Convertor from a reputable company can and will hold up to 400 hp as long as you have a good VB to support it. You can get a good match set from many places ( ie ATS, Sun Coast...) for right at $1200 for the set. Triple lock will cost you about 600 - 800 more. .

The tranny is the weak link in our trucks always has been, and one word to the wise, If you have stock clutches in your truck NEVER USE ANYTHING BUT AFT+4 otherwise you will EAT your clutches up. Only if you replace the clutches with Kevlars or Dextron rated clutches can you switch the fluid.

JG

sweet..thanks.:thumbup2:

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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>AMSOIL.................... The only way to go for tranny oil.

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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>AMSOIL....................

The only way to go for tranny oil.

I would like to add to that comment. The fluid is over looked all the time Amsoil provides the best lubrication. Amsoil is heat tolerant which is one of the biggest killers to an Auto tranys. You can get more miles to a servicing as well.

Bill

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I would like to add to that comment. The fluid is over looked all the time Amsoil provides the best lubrication. Amsoil is heat tolerant which is one of the biggest killers to an Auto tranys. You can get more miles to a servicing as well.

Bill

Pm'med you about amsoil.. Got rid of all the rest on here to keep from stirring things up/getting off topic.

As for the OP, tranny temp gauges are very valuable. It will allow you to keep an eye on it so you know when you are getting too hot.

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I'm not knocking Amsoil cause It's a great replacement oil!!! Just make sure that it's ATF+4 complient if you are on your stock tranny. If your tranny has been gone throughand the tranny shop used aftermarket clutches that are dextron conplient, only then you can use dextron. If you put dextron tranny fluid in a stock tranny you will cause premature clutch failure.

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I'm not knocking Amsoil cause It's a great replacement oil!!! Just make sure that it's ATF+4 complient if you are on your stock tranny. If your tranny has been gone throughand the tranny shop used aftermarket clutches that are dextron conplient, only then you can use dextron. If you put dextron tranny fluid in a stock tranny you will cause premature clutch failure.

Amsoil is a compliant oil for all Auto trannies, I swapped my 02's stock tranny over to amsoil at around 20k miles and now have 120k miles with 60k of those being over 500hp and sled pull and drag race it. Have had a BD single disc converter and VB in it since 40K and it is still a virgin tranny except for the OP shaft I snapped and replaced with billet.

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