ECM failure

[Mace]

Maybe some of you gents can help me now?

 

Truck starting getting some bumpy rpms this afternoon. Drove it a bit and now it’s limping along with erratic idle. CEL on now.

 

Codes I have:

 

p0606

p0113

p0118

p0121

p0123

 

I read an article from here with someone with the same issues/codes and it was an ecm failure.

 

I have the WT mods done, batts are clean & tight. 
 

I’m sitting on the side of the road right now so I thought id drop this topic. Any recommend ecm rebuilders?!

Thoughts?

Edited January 20 by Mace

[Mopar1973Man]

P0606 is a ECM death code. Try resetting but I'm pretty sure it will return.

 

@Auto Computer Specialist should be able to fix it up for you.

 

 

 

Edited January 20 by Mopar1973Man

[Mace]

Anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? I read the alternator can cause this?

[Threadzy]

Test for AC noise from the alternator while the truck is running with no accessory’s on. Anything below .05 mv is acceptable. Above that replacement is necessary. I’ve been running a Nations alternator for years with no issues. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Additionally, I would take the truck out and drive it a few miles to put a good charge on the batteries after starting cold. This will stabilize the test and prevent the grid heaters from stealing power and fouling the measurement. Just after your drive leave the engine run and test now. This should be a stable test then.

[Mace]

It’s worse now. The rpm is surging pretty bad, enough that I can’t drive it safely.

 

My current alternator is 5 years old now maybe I should throw a new one on.

 

Any recommendations on that or will a parts house one suffice?

[Threadzy]

Test for AC noise. Now that you’ve done the W-T mod it could be ok. Once I got my Nations alternator I still had the lock unlock issue with my transmission. Once I did the W-T mod I haven’t had any issues. I did the mod 5 or 6 years ago. It’s the high  AC noise that fries the computers. 

[Mace]

I have the 6spd but I’ll look into Nations. Had a good run of 24 years but I guess it’s just 2nd gen luck!

 

I did the wt mod 2 years ago I never had issues up till then but it seemed like a good idea to just do it.

 

 

[Threadzy]

Ya I hear you. Ya the autos tend to give you a little warning before the AC noise takes out the Ecm or in an autos case pcm to. 

[Tractorman]

1 hour ago, Threadzy said:

Anything below .05 mv is acceptable.

 

I believe that should be below .050 volts AC, or below 50 milli-volts AC.

 

From Moparman's video:

 

- John

 

 

- John

 

 

Edited January 20 by Tractorman

[Mace]

I ordered a Nations 180amp alternator.

 

When I was moving my truck into my works yard the rpm was going crazy and the “check gauges” light came on.

 

I hope other components arent getting killed by this thing.

Edited January 20 by Mace

[JAG1]

Not sure if it will help but, check the alternator grounding that goes thru the mounting bracket. The pivot bolt gets corrosion on the bolt head and bracket. I ran a separate ground from alt housing to the passenger battery. Also check make sure you eliminated the factory grey connection clip on that ground wire to the passenger battery. I think it goes to the PCM if not mistaken. That grey connector is P.O.S.

 

WT wants that connector removed and solder the wire together.

 

 

Edited January 21 by JAG1

[Mace]

I completed every aspect of the wt mod as written. That ground is soldered now.

 

 

[JAG1]

Thats good  see if you have resistance on the alt ground or run your own ground Alt frame to the ground post on the battery. I used one of the Alt housing screws and heavy gauge wire to the neg on the battery. Done this to both my 2nd gens.

Edited January 21 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

I reused that grey connector from the ECM ground as my additional ground to the battery on the driver side. Looks pretty factory except for the ring terminal on the driver-side battery.

[Mace]

Well the girl is starting to come together. My Nations 180 showed up today and I’m going to install it on Monday. I’ll make sure to clean all the mounting surfaces to ensure a decent ground.

 

My ecm & pcm are in @Tractorman care and he’s forwarding it to ACS on Monday as well.

 

I’ve installed my Airdog 100-5G during the week. Quite happy with the install (I’ve deleted the oem filter housing now). I put a 6.7 wif sensor in the water separator and made a jumper harness from the engine harness wif connector so I can retain that. I’ve lost the heater side since I couldn’t find a filter with a heater element in it. One thing I noticed in the airdog harness is it uses the oem lift pump connector for the relay trigger and already comes with a diode suppressing relay.

 

I removed the oem lift pump & plate and am waiting on a Fleece block off plate to cover the hole.

 

During my adventures in wiring down on the engine harness I was leaning on top on the engine and accidentally broke the dipstick handle off. I see they discontinued it and have the “new style” dipstick & tube on order. The old tube came out surprisingly easy.

 

Just a note about my GDP Fuel Boss removal. I ended up breaking the crank side pulley wheel to gain access to the harmonic bolts to remove the adapter. Those set screws are a PITA to get out after many years of exposure to the elements. What a nightmare it will be if you had to replace a crank seal or something all because the set screws don’t want to come out.

 

If anyone is interested in buying my old kit I got a deal for you. You’ll just need a new pulley wheel adapter (I’m sure you can buy one from GDP) and new 3/8” hose.

Edited Sunday at 06:14 AM by Mace

[Mopar1973Man]

On 1/25/2025 at 10:58 PM, Mace said:

(I’ve deleted the oem filter housing now)

Should of kept it. You just ditched a good fuel heater and a secondary filter.